South of
Alice Springs, including
Chambers Pillar,
Rainbow Valley,
Owen Springs and
Henbury Meteor Craters.
Leaving
Alice Springs via the Old South Road (Finke Road), we followed the alignment of the now disused Old Ghan Railway. A section of the line has been retained to MacDonnell Siding; the site of the
National Road Transport Hall of Fame and Old Ghan
Heritage Railway and Museum - see a previous blog about these. A tourist train takes visitors along this eight kilometre stretch of line.
Petroglyphs at Ewaninga
The small Aboriginal petroglyph site at
Ewaninga almost 40 kilometres south of
Alice Springs consists of a group of
sandstone rocks, many with fine etchings, alongside a claypan. When it rained, the claypan would have been a source of water and food when animals came to drink, so
Ewaninga was a special place to the Arrernte people.
Diverting from the continuing road to Finke, which at this point becomes a narrow track, we headed towards Maryvale Station and the track to
Chambers Pillar.
After Maryvale and the adjacent Titjikala Community, the track deteriorated as it traversed 43 kilometres through the station.
It was a steep climb to cross the Charlotte Ranges from the top of which
Chambers Pillar could be seen in the distance. Before reaching the Reserve, we crossed a number of sand dunes which had been stabilised with
limestone to make crossing easy. The track was narrow over the crests, and signage asked for travellers to announce their approach on two-way radio and specified channel 10.
Chambers Pillar
Chambers Pillar at sunrise
It is said that in the Dreamtime the Gecko ancestor Itirkawara left the
Finke River and journeyed north east. Then he disregarded the strict marriage code and took a wife from the wrong skin group. His enraged relatives banished them both. The two retreated into the desert, Itirkawara raging in fury, the girl shrinking from him in deep shame. Among the dunes they rested and turned into prominent rocky formations - Itirkawara into the Pillar, and the girl, still turning her face away from him in shame, into
Castle Rock.
Castle Rock from Chambers Pillar
The explorer,
John MacDouall Stuart, heading north on his earliest attempt to cross Australia, first recorded the pillar in April 1860 and named it to honour his friend and financial supporter James Chambers. Prior to the overland railway, the Pillar was a significant landmark in the desert for travellers. Messages were sometimes left at the base of the pillar. Early travellers carved their names into the soft
sandstone of the pillar, including
John Ross, the leader of the exploring party for the
Overland Telegraph Line construction and his second in command Alfred Giles.
Famous names carved on Chamber Pillar
The four wheel drive track traverses what was once a 1780 square kilometre cattle station. The
Owen Springs station was acquired by the Northern Territory Government in 2000 and opened to the public in 2003. The track is quite firm, apart from the riverbed sand where the track follows the Hugh River through
Lawrence Gorge.
The historic track through the station follows the route taken by
John McDouall Stuart on his explorations between 1860 and 1862, which opened up Central Australia to white settlement. The telegraph line when constructed followed Stuart’s route along the Hugh River and through
Lawrence Gorge in the Waterhouse Range.
Owen Springs
Rainbow Valley, known as Warre to the local Aborigines, is a small but beautiful Conservation Reserve, with coloured
sandstone that is soft, smooth and creamy looking. It is very fragile and the main ridge is slowly dissolving into the claypan, giving it a pink surface. There are different textures as
well as a variety of colours in the beautiful
sandstone formation. These features form part of the James Range.
Rainbow Valley
Henbury Meteorites Conservation Reserve contains twelve craters which were formed when meteor fragments hit the earth's surface around 4,700 years ago. The craters range from seven to 180 metres in diameter and up to fifteen metres deep to six metres wide and only a few centimetres deep. The smaller ones of these are now barely visible due to the effects of erosion. The largest crater has been formed by two fragments, so is really two overlapping craters. Two spurs of dark
rock on opposite outer edges mark the division which has been eroded away.
Henbury Meteor Craters
Come with us on our journey to
Chambers Pillar,
Rainbow Valley,
Owen Springs and
Henbury Meteor Craters.
Read more about this and our other adventures in our travelogues on
Australia So Much to See