Problem with Waeco 12V plug in battery box socket

Submitted: Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 10:26
ThreadID: 91371 Views:10204 Replies:5 FollowUps:15
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With my new house battery installed in the luggage area of the Jackaroo I want to make sure that everything works but I have fallen at the first hurdle. The plug on the 12V lead on the Waeco fridge that works perfectly in the socket in the back of the Jack won't work in the battery box socket.
I have partly solved the problem by plugging a 12V double adaptor into the battery box socket and that works but the Waeco 12V plug in one double adaptor outlet is still a bit tenuous. Other plugs (inverter & voltage meter) work from the battery box socket with no problems. I am puzzled as to why I am not getting consistent connections. Any ideas out there?
Thanks,
Kevin
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Reply By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 10:42

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 10:42
Hi Kevin, it sounds rather like the plug (presumably cigar type) on the end of the Waeco lead could be at fault. It works OK in one socket, sometimes in another, and not at all in another. Possibly the centre pin of this plug is not extended enough. Try lining it up alongside say the inverter plug and observe any differences.

When you say "one double adaptor outlet is still a bit tenuous." I take you to mean that the Waeco works sometimes in this socket and sometimes not. Try pressing the plug firmly into the socket whilst observing if the Waeco runs.

Another less likely possibility is that the wire connections within the Waeco plug are unreliable and move to make or break condition as you move the plug from one location to the other. Try wriggling the cable at the plug entry whilst observing the Waeco operation.


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Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:05

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:05
Thanks Alan. Your diagnosis could be correct. To work in the adaptor outlet the Waeco plug has to be pushed in hard and easily pops back out to the point where it doesn't work. But a new problem has arisen. After about 2 hours the error light on the Waeco started flashing so I moved the Waeco plug to another adaptor (I think it came with the inverter) that has alligator clips that I have clipped onto the main terminals of the battery box. Fixed the problem immediately. That suggests to me that the wires to the socket in the battery box are too small. Perhaps the battery box is not up to scratch.
I wondered if the Waeco 12V lead could be modified by fitting a different fuse and + and - leads with battery terminal ends on them for a permanent fit to the battery box. THat would be much more secure than plug and socket.
Kevin
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 12:47

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 12:47
Kevin, if the plug pops back out it suggests that the side (negative) contact on the plug is not applying sufficient force on the sides of the socket. This would not only allow the plug to become disengaged but also will not be making a good electrical contact. With a poor contact here the voltage available to the Waeco would be reduced and result in an error signal. It is not necessarily so that the wires are "too small". Study this dodgy plug and compare it to others. Possibly it can be corrected by judicious resetting of the side contacts.

Cigar plugs are by nature unreliable electrical connectors and changing to Anderson plugs can be a good move. You just need to be able to make the cable connections within the Anderson plug either by crimping using a correct tool or by soldering. If you go this way you will find the + and - connections marked on the Anderson plugs and in the case of the flexible Waeco cable the negative conductor is denoted by fine ribs moulded onto the PVC insulation of the cable. Be sure to get this polarity correct.

I eliminated plugs altogether on my fridge and wired the Waeco cable directly to the battery supply (via a fuse of course). I then purchased a replacement Waeco cable for using the fridge out of the vehicle, such as when being supplied from 240v via the mains module.

I have found a need to retain several 12v cigar plugs within the vehicle to supply those devices that have voltage reducers (5v) within the cigar plug. By selecting the cigar sockets carefully I have had no trouble with these, but they draw much less current nor are as critical as the fridge.


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Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:18

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:18
Sounds like Anderson plugs and a spare Waeco cable are the way to go. I've been a bit concerned about cigar plugs as they can easily be dislodged on rough road if gear starts moving around. I think a cable from the battery (with fuse) to an Anderson plug fixed to my storage unit right beside where the fridge goes on the car is the most secure arrangement. We don't want to have a hot fridge at the end of the day, do we?
Thanks for your help.
Kevin
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Follow Up By: Member - Rod N (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:26

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:26
I did the same as Alan B, permanently wired to screw terminals and a spare lead.
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Follow Up By: Member - Greg H (NT) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 17:03

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 17:03
Kevin,

Had the same problem. Ditched the cig. and put Anderson plug in place. No more hot fridge on a rough road. Get a second cord for times you need the cig end. I take my fridge out of the ute when camping for a coupla days so that it can be plugged into the trailer.

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Reply By: bushpig51 - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:12

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:12
Hi Kevin,
The best thing you could do is cut off the cigarette type plug and fit a 50 amp Anderson plugs. That way you will never loose your power to your fridge again, even on those rough roads. There's nothing worse then finding the fridge hot after a full days driving. This is what I did with mine and just bought a new spare power cable for use in other situations. Have not had a problem since.
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Bushpig51
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Follow Up By: bushpig51 - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:15

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:15
Hi Kevin,
Dont forget to add an inline fuse as well.
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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:27

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:27
Thanks Bushpig. That was my next question. Does it matter which side of the Anderson plug that the fuse is fitted?
Kevin
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Follow Up By: bushpig51 - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:36

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 11:36
Hi Kevin,
I have a 50 amp fuse between the battery and Anderson plug and a 10 amp blade fuse between the next Anderson plug and the fridge plug.
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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:20

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:20
Hi Bushpig. Two of you are saying much the same thing. Must be right. It's a problem when you become more confused from conflicting advice.
Thanks,
Kevin
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:29

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:29
Kevin, your'e right about "conflicting advice".
Mind you, there are always alternate viewpoints.
It's just that some are more alternate than others! LOL

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Reply By: member - mazcan - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:51

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 13:51
hi kevin s
if you look inside the 12v socket of all the el-cheapo ones you will see they are just a parralell tube with no grip on the inside to help retain the plug when pushed in hence the problem of it popping back a bit from the end plunger contact spring pressure
the old well made 12v sockets always had plug retainer clips inside them
there are some of these still availuble but few and far between
as they say nothing aint whot it used to be
compare your sockets and you will probably find at least your problem free socket has this inbuilt feature
iunless you cant find a decent 12v socket in a shop dont buy them as the plugs in the el-cheapo's always pop out from my experience
so go for the anderson plug method that way you have peace of mind no matter how rough the road/track is/
cheers
barry
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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 14:36

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 14:36
Interesting point, Barry. The ones that work are those with a smooth tube. One of those was a bit dicey but the second one worked but may not continue to do so under gravel road conditions.
The socket in the battery box has a full circle if contact material inside the entrance but this then breaks up into 4 equally spaced "fingers" of metal, each about 12.5% of the circumference. Could be that the contacts on the side of the cigar plug are going past the initial ring and need to be twisted to get a good contact on the fingers. But with Anderson plugs none of this matters, does it?
Cheers,
Kevin
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Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 16:27

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 16:27
Kevin,

I am a user of Anderson plugs for some electrical connections, but they are a bit overkill for 10 amp circuits.

I have standardised all of my lower voltage equipment to use the Merit/Hella style plug and socket. Looks a little like a cigarette plug with a red collar on it, which will allow the plug to be inserted into a standard cigarette socket. With the collar removed it fits into the more secure Merit socket.
Panel mount sockets can be purchased to replace the one on your battery box.

Have a look at Sidewinder.com
Derek is an advertiser on this site.


Bill


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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 17:12

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 17:12
That makes a lot of sense, Bill. I am a customer of Sidewinder and know what a Merit plug is and does. I have just had Derek's battery isolator fitted to my Jackaroo to charge the battery the use of which has spawned there problems with plugs and sockets. Tanks for your input.
Kevin
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Reply By: Member - bill f (QLD) - Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 23:50

Sunday, Jan 22, 2012 at 23:50
What I did with my Flyer from Sidewinder was to wire in an Engel female socket. Easy as all is marked + & - & fused. Even a bracket to screw to the battery cover. Then cut off the plug on the Waeco cord & also cut the end off an Engel cord & join this to your Waeco cord. Make sure the polarity is right. By taking the end off the plug it screws into the new socket but can be used in a normal cig socket when in one piece. The fuse is also easier to change but more expensive. After burning out 3 plugs including 2 merrit type I have had no trouble, even over corrugations. Bill
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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Monday, Jan 23, 2012 at 08:44

Monday, Jan 23, 2012 at 08:44
Hi Bill. I'm not Familiar with the Engel plug but heat does seem to be an issue. I brought the Waeco and battery inside where I could watch it easier to try to run it from the cigar socket again. It would run for about 90 minutes and then disconnect its self. When I pulled the plug out to check it, the centre contact was too hot to touch.
I intend to talk to my local Waeco service agent this morning to get his take on it.
Cheers,
Kevin
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Monday, Jan 23, 2012 at 08:58

Monday, Jan 23, 2012 at 08:58
Hey Kev, ....."the centre contact was too hot to touch."

There's your answer. If the contact was hot it was because of a poor connection causing a voltage drop at the contact and, with the current flowing through it, producing heat.

This same voltage drop would be subtracted from the nominal 12v and rob the supply to the fridge, causing it to disconnect itself.

Remedy? Change the plug and socket.

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Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - bill f (QLD) - Monday, Jan 23, 2012 at 13:47

Monday, Jan 23, 2012 at 13:47
Kevin, The front of an Engel plug unscrews to reveal 2 prongs & a groove. These fit into corresponding spots in the socket so the polarity is correct. The cover then screws in to keep it all together. The Engel socket comes labelled + & - & fused with ends ready to attach to your battery. I drilled a hole in the top of the box & attached the provided bracket. The main thing is not to lose the front part of the plug. Bill
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