One of the benefits of visiting a particular area on an almost yearly basis is that it allows you to grasp the influence that the seasons, good and bad, have on the region. For me this is never more evident than on my visits to the Karlamilyi (
Rudall River) National Park in the rugged
Pilbara.
I fell in love with the rugged beauty of the place on my first visit to the area in July, 2006. Since then I’ve returned every year but one, introducing friends to some of my favourite
places & exploring and discovering new ones. Remember that I travel from
Melbourne and put that into context regarding distance, London is closer to Cairo than I am to the Desert Queen Baths!
Karlamilyi straddles an interesting geographical position. Being on the transition of the Little Sandy and Great Sandy Deserts, the park comprises arid desert plains and dunes as
well as the last vestiges of the rugged
Pilbara. It's here that the the red iron and
sandstone of the Throssell and Broadhurst ranges give way to the relentless parallel dunes of the Deserts.
Weather wise, Karlamilyi occupies a unique position. While the area is classified as arid, on occasion it can be subject to the monsoonal wets and cyclones of the
Kimberley. This means that huge volumes of rain can arrive in the space of a few days or even hours in some cases. Four or more inches falling in an afternoon is not unheard of. The runoff from the hills and ranges must be spectacular and I have witnessed the damage caused to creek beds and tracks by tumultuous rains from one year to the next . In other years the region can go with little or no rain. The effects on the flora and wildlife of the park is extreme.
Last year, 2013, we were privileged enough to have arrived after solid rains had soaked the entire region. The park exploded in a riot of colour and life. Over the past eight years I have never witnessed so much water about the park. Many of the soaks and waterholes had absorbed so much moisture that they were able to maintain surface water for an extended period. The Watrara Creek and
Rudall River had become a series of extended waterholes. Plant life exploded and so did the wildlife coming in to take advantage of both the water and the abundant grasses and vegetation.
Through EO I found out that one couple were lucky enough to be in the area in early June when the heavens opened for two days. Camped at Tjarra
Pool on the
Rudall River, Ray and Lesley Lahainer were forced to uproute their
camp and move inland as the normal tranquil
water hole swelled to a raging torrent. While I’m sure it didn't seem too “lucky” at the time, it’s an event that’s rarely witnessed and I was very happy to receive photos from Ray which add a rarely seen dimension to the ebb and flow of life in our arid outback. My thanks to Ray and Lesley for permission to use their photos.
Please enjoy these photos that show the extremes of climate and conditions on a few of my favourite Karlamilyi locations.
Tjinkultjatjarra (Tjarra) Pool
(note the gnarly old gum as a reference point. We usually
camp by this tree)
July 2009
The main pool - Dry as a dead dingos donger!
The main Pool area
Tjarra Pool
Looking east down the creek
Tjarra Pool - Sandbar camp area
July 2012
Main Pool are July 2012
Sandy bank by the main pool 2012
June 2013 - The deluge (With thanks to Ray and Lesley Lahainer)
Main pool and flooded camping spot
The waterhole becomes a torrent! - Whitewater rafting anyone?
Looking back at the main pool - note the gums
The gums by the main pool
Looking east along the creek
Water flowing past Tjarra pool
The main pool after the deluge
The creek 4 days after the deluge (dove returns to camp with olive branch)
July, 2013
Tjarra Pool Camp July 2013
Looking west across the main pool of Tjarra
Tjarra Pool
Horses-douvers by the pool
Curran Curran Rockhole
July 2009 - The Dingo looking for a drink
July 2013 - Brimming
July 2013 - Brimming
Klaken Kalkan Soak
Kalkan Klakan Soak 2009
Kalkan Klakan Soak - July 2013
Kalkan Klakan Soak July 2013
Yandagooge Gap
Yandagooge rock hole 2010
Yandagooge Gap Pool 2013
Yandagooge Gap pool
Darlsen Pinnacle