Grave of Shoesmith and Thomson
Day 15 - Thursday 17th July
Start -
Well 37
Stop -
Well 41
Just a few km past the
camp we came into the site of
Well 37. We spent ages here - in the Gard book was a mud map and directions to find some blazes on trees (trees that are now burnt and fallen down so markings not found) , but of most interest where the 3
graves all nicely restored with plaques and signage.
Grave of Chinaman
One grave is for drovers Shoesmith and Thomson, another alongside is for Chinaman - all murdered here by bush natives in 1911. These 2
graves are situated to the left of the main
carpark (!) on a slight rise - easily visible. To the right of the
carpark, about 100m away is the grave of
Grave of John McLernon
John McLernon, a camel driver in the Locke Oil Prospecting expedition in 1922 who was also murdered here in 1922.
The
well itself was underwater, but it made an excellent scene to photograph amongst the flooded ti-trees.
We stopped further on at the little
cave by the side of the track that is marked on maps as "
Rock Art". The inside walls have collapsed and most of the art is buried and is hardly worth a mention but it was a nice little stop and we found yellow pea flowers growing amongst the rocks above the
cave.
Water 38 is in a fact a
rockhole on the LHS of the main track and is
well identified by good signage on a gravel rise. There is a 20m walk down to a rocky creek area to the actual site with various rockholes, stone sharpening marks and initials of early drovers easily seen on the walls of the
rockhole.
Digging for bush yams
On the way to
Well 39 we stopped for lunch on a ridge with distant
views to Lake Tobin and occupied ourselves by digging for yams - we never reach the yam, but the roots went down a long way.
Well 39
When you reach
Well 39 you come upon it quite suddenly after crossing a dune to a flat dry claypan - the
well lies by the track on the RHS and is in total ruin with putrid water that is not suitable to use for anything. We found a few skulls of various animals here which the kids loved.
We found numerous little camps in flat clearings under shady desert oaks between here and
Well 40 but continued on as it was only just past 2.30pm.
We reached the site of
Well 40 and found a large lake! The
well itself is underwater on the eastern bank (not accessible) but we were able to walk around the banks of the lake to within 4m of the
well to obtain the approximate GPS reference.
After
parking a little too close to the crusty mud, Kim and Ian in the Navara ute found themselves a little stuck so needed a little tug out with a snatch strap. They were most surprised as they were a fair way back from the edge of the "lake". We are constantly reminded how the stock route would surely be a glue-bog in wetter times.
Tobins Grave
A track leads up to the top of a
hill behind the
Well site to the grave of Michael Tobin who was speared in 1907 during the main survey of the stock route. His grave has a marble cross and clear embossed lettering with all the details of his death.
Finally, we moved on to
Well 41 and the hope of a
good campsite. We certainly didn't expect to find it underwater.
Flooded site of Well 40
Thankfully, we had spotted a pretty decent
campsite 1.2km before the
well site and as the lead vehicle we radio all to tell them we had chosen our
campsite for the night and please bring some wood! Tonight we were having Pork Roast with Peach Compote.