This is a follow-up for thread ID 98314 in which I asked for some help in removing the gearbox of my 105 Landcruiser. It has now been archived so I can't add to it so thought I would do a brief report as I obtained some conflicting information when I was looking for help.
Firstly thank you to all those who offered advice. Loosening the fan shroud and the engine mounts was excellent advice. The stuff-the-grease-in-behind-the-spigot-bearing-and whack it with a drift (in my case a 3/8in socket extension) was perfect. After about 20 whacks it landed on my head, covered in grease. At least my fear of grease spraying everywhere did not come to be. Might try the wet
toilet paper trick next time. I had also undone the inlet hose from the air filter to the turbo.
In the end I decided not to separate the transfer and gearbox and nor did I remove the crossmember from the gearbox. As suggested, I used the doors open, steel pole through cab suspended from ceiling at level of top of door openings, cable hand winch suspended from steel pole supporting gearbox through the transfer case lever hole technique. Piece of webbing around gearbox.
Then a trolley jack under the bell housing and another under the transfer as the weight of the transfer causes the whole catastrophe to tilt that way (a bit). This worked
well as I could tilt the gearbox this way and that and maintain alignment
well with the engine
avoiding any undue pressure on the gearbox input shaft.
I was able to get the top bellhousing to engine bolts out with a long socket extension through the gearbox level hole. And by the way, when it comes time to remove the gearbox lever the instructions are to push down and remove it as you would a bayonet
fitting light globe. You do not push down on the gear lever but rather the small circular tin seal at the bottom of the lever. Some time and effort wasted there!
Rattled the gearbox loose and used a pinch bar in various positions to move the gearbox back. It did not seem to need rotating as there was adequate (just) clearance with the firewall. The engine needs to be dropped at the back as far as possible minding out for it impinging on things. Manoevred it out and rested it on the floor. Not sure if this is the case with other models such as the 80 though.
Had the flywheel refinished ($50), replaced the clutch plate, spigot and thrust bearing and a nice new high-clamp pressure plate. Had to modify my off-the-shelf clutch alignment tool as the smallest dowel was still too big for the tiny Toyota spigot bearing opening. Lined it up a gazillion times and eventually tightened the pressure plate bolts to the required torque
Had a few sleepless nights wondering how I was going to get it back in.
Bought 2 ratchet straps at KMart for $15.
One went over the chassis rails and under the sump with one of the loops running in front of the lowest bulge in the sump. Important to do it this way. This supported the rear of the engine and allowed plenty of room under the car.
Lifted the gearbox with cable winch and 2 trolley jacks into as close a position as I could get it. Ran the other ratchet strap from the front strap under the sump on one side, around the gearbox's rear and back to the front strap on the other side. Now I could use the second ratchet strap to coax the gearbox up to the motor watching the alignment carefully. When it was nearly
home but the alignment of the dowels was not quite right, I tensioned the strap pretty tightly and rattled around the rear of the gearbox and VOILA-all together. Amazing given it was so little effort.
Went and had a beer to celebrate.
Now I just need to do everything up again!
Hope this is of use to someone out there in brave removal-of-gearbox land.
Others may have some other suggestions. I did manage to save on some labour and learnt a lot (including patience) along the way. Did have to buy a trolley jack. Bought a big one cause the little ones drive you to distraction with a 4WD.
Good luck