Removing 105 series Landcruiser manual gearbox

I have done it without a hoist once with a qualified mechanic, it took 9 hours, that was gear box out new one in, this was without a clutch change and was no fun.
Yes you need to rotate it not quite 45 degrees.
I have done it with a hoist and changing a clutch, total hours 2 out 2 in, however if you are doing a clutch I always machine the fly wheel as well a must IMOA.

Have fun Phil.

Yes, it is do-able but not a fun job. I have just had my son replace my 80 Series clutch. 'We' chained the gearbox so that once it cleared the spline it would not just crash to the floor. Once it cleared it was an easier matter to gently lower it to the floor. 'We' took the transfer case off before we refitted the gearbox.

The other advice is also good ... get the flywheel machined before installing a new clutch. Some clutch suppliers will machine it for you free if you buy the clutch from gythem.

I should also add that the 'we' I use is the Royal 'we'. My son did all the hard yakka, but I put the chain across, and helped to 'wriggle' the gearbox, but that was about the extent of my involvement.

Jack

Gooday Michael : I searched a forum and found this , most post say they remove trans case to make it easier . IMO it is must to do the job right . replace all clutch parts as in a clutch kit "complete" worth it in the long run , as you will find out , you wont want to do it again in a hurry !!!
you will have to aline the clutch plate " special tool "

I split the transfer case off the gearbox, which made things easier. If I did it again I’d remove the front and rear drive shafts a bit earlier in the piece to give me room to remove those lovely little Toyota electrical connectors on the gearbox and transfer case.

I had a little bit of trouble with the transfer case separation because the alignment dowels had a bit of corrosion on them. I cleaned these up with a bit of scotch brite before reassembly.

Removing the gearbox top retaining bolts was made easier when I had removed the gearbox cross member and lowered the rear of the gearbox. This gave me a bit more room to access the top bolts. I placed a small piece of wood between the cylinder head and the firewall to help protect the engine mounts.

Once I pulled the gearbox back enough to clear the starter motor stud, I rotated the gearbox anti clockwise enough to provide clearance for the gearbox starter motor nose support area. Then gearbox can then be moved backwards and away for the clutch assembly.

Removing the spigot bearing was interesting. I didn’t realise how large the cavity behind the spigot is. The recess in the crankshaft is deceiving. Once full of grease, a quick strike of the hammer against a round brass drift ejected the spigot pretty quickly.

I had to extend the clutch adjuster on the pedal to lift the clutch engagement off the floor.

I was showing a young would be mechanic how to do this task, so it took a bit longer than what I’d like. It took about 12 hours and I had the clutch replaced and the car back on the road.

Don't forget to undo the front engine mounts before you lower the rear of the motor or you will tear the front mounts.

Thanks everyone. Great description Nick. You aren't available for instructing other would-be mechanics are you?
I have already bought an Exeedy Safari Tuff clutch and do plan to have the flywheel refinished. There has been some smelly, obviously hot moments with the old clutch and the flywheel will definitely need attention.
Looks like it will be best to do as the book says and separate the transfer. Good advice about the engine mounts too.
If anyone else has any hints please let me know. Thanks
Michael

Hi
All good info above.
Good idea to remove the fan or cowl and rear heater hoses to let the engine tilt.
As they can interfere and or get broken.
Good idea to remove the transfer case first.
An engine hoist is also handy to lift and lower the gearbox,this can be attached through the gear selector hole in the floorpan, use a ratchet strap around the gearbox.
2 lengths of threaded rod are handy to place through the mounting holes to pull the gearbox back into position.as they are one heavy gearbox.and awkward if you are doing it on ramps or stands.

If any thing use a genuine Toyota clutch.machine the fly wheel, and replace the rear engine seal,


look here as well
http://www.lcool.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=3

Rob

Michael,

Never done a 105, but have replaced g'box/tcase in a 60 series, and have done a number of 75 clutches. We did the 75's on a ramp, so had plenty of room underneath, and were able to pull the floor out and put a piece of pipe through the cab, with an endless chain hanging off it. We did the lowering of the rear of the engine too, but can't remember removing the t'case, or having to tilt the transmission either way.

On the 60 series, because it was during some furnace weather, we removed/replaced the tranny, in the shed, and used a trolley jack to take the weight, while we got it into position. Luckily, when re-fitting it, I had 3 burly off-siders who were able to help keep the tranny on the jack.

You can buy them, but I've made clutch alignment tools out of a piece of wooden rake, or broom handle. You grind the end to fit in the centre of the spigot bearing, and once you have the clutch set up, insert this to line up the thrust bearing & spigot bearing.

Think that's about all I could help you with,

Bob.