Changing 1/2" Wheel Studs to Toyota studs on AL-KO brake hubs ?

Submitted: Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 10:37
ThreadID: 91110 Views:5474 Replies:6 FollowUps:14
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I was wanting to change my wheel studs on my caravan fitted with AL-KO electric brakes hubs that have 1/2" imp studs to the six stud metric studs to suit my Landcruiser.
I wanted to be able to have all matching wheels, tyres and wheel nuts, then there is no drama with spares etc.
I have bought a full set of alloy OME rims to match the tug but Toyota alloy rims have a bigger bolt hole throughout their rims and don't use a tapered wheel nut, instead use their bolt to centre the rim to the hub.
Has anyone else been down this road before and can offer advise on what they did?
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Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 10:49

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 10:49
Bernie, it probably depends on the spline on the studs that lock into the brake drum. If you remove them and try to fit new ones, you may create a bigger problem. In my experience, each time you remove the studs, the new ones are not as tight and the Toyota ones may be looser being 12 mm instead of 12.7mm (1/2") I have exactly the same Alko electric hubs and 12mm Patrol studs on the vehicle and i just carry a set of both studs and nuts for both the trailer and Patrol. My thoughts only, Michael


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Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:04

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:04
Bernie, As for the Parallel Toyota nuts, maybe a wheel mob may have a set of nuts to suit the 1/2" thread and the Toyota wheels. That style of nut in 1/2" was very popular in the 70s and 80s so you should find something to fit.. Michael
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Follow Up By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:39

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:39
Thanks Michael that is what I was afraid of, but will check the nut sizes out and get back to you
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Reply By: ozjohn0 - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:03

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:03
Mate, You'll probaly need replacement drums to suit the new wheels.
You'll also have to be sure that the wheel profile and tyre diameter etc will suit the vans mudguards.
Ozjohn.
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Follow Up By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:42

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:42
Thanks John,
I tried the standard GXL rims off my box trailer with the same off set and checked the wheel travel up and down with jacks and they just scrap the chassis on full up, so I could put a 20mm spacer in there to remove that problem and have still enough on the outside without problems
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Reply By: Lex M - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:45

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:45
I've changed my Alko to metric for Toyota steel wheels without a problem.
Got the replacement studs from Alko. Use Toyota nuts.

I don't use alloys, but I thought the shoulder on the nut located an alloy wheel.
Never had a vehicle that used tapered nuts on alloys. Sounds like poor engineering practice to me.
AnswerID: 474461

Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 12:40

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 12:40
Lex !! The alloys with tapered seat have a steel insert in them, they seat on the steel seat and not on the alloy hole. They have some benefits like easier to line up to put the nuts on and dont bind in the hole like alloys do when undoing them.. Michael
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Follow Up By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 12:40

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 12:40
Lex I hear you, and I have never seen a tapered nut into an alloy rim either, but that wasn't what I was going to do. Thanks anyway
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Follow Up By: The Bantam - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 14:40

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 14:40
Conventional tapered nuts are not uncommon on alloy wheels in the trailer business.

Sounds a bit rough to me but they do exist.

cheers
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Follow Up By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 14:50

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 14:50
Yes the taper nut would end up being a flaring tool
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Follow Up By: Lex M - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 15:07

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 15:07
"The alloys with tapered seat have a steel insert in them"

Interesting. Any reports of the insert loosening due to dilfferent expansion/contraction rates?

I'll stick with steel thanks. I've seen too many alloys destroyed by hitting things.
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Follow Up By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 15:33

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 15:33
Me too and mainly caused by driver error and/or not driving to suit the conditions.

Seen some steel ones distorted as well, lucky most can be belted back to seal the tyre back onto the rim, unlike alloy rims.

I have had alloys on a camper trailer for many years and never had a rim problem and took it into some rough country and some rough roads and with changed tyre pressures to suit different tracks and roads.

I'll stick with alloy thanks, and the better ride thanks to the lesser unsprung axle weight.
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Follow Up By: Lex M - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 17:48

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 17:48
Unless you're running forged alloy wheels then that weight difference is probably a lot less than expected.

Ever weighed them?
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Follow Up By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 18:31

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 18:31
Just for your benefit, I went down to my shed and did it just for you,
Toyota 80 series alloy OME rims less tyre = 9.7 Kg
Toyota 80 series GXL Steel rims less tyre = 17.4 Kg
That would equate to a difference = 7.7Kg

I suppose you want me to include the wheel nuts now, do you.
Oh and I forgot the centre caps as well, want me to do it with them as well or will these weights be close enough to ensure your mind is at ease.
Gee, I bet everyone here just waits to read your enlightening follow up posts, do you have anymore.
On second thoughts maybe not.

If you hadn't noticed from the the last posting down the bottom of the page, I have sorted the problem and thanked everyone who had constructive input a thank you. Did I miss you there Lex M, maybe something in that.
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Follow Up By: Lex M - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 19:20

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 19:20
Hmmm.

Sorry if I've upset you. Certainly not intended.

Also sorry I mentioned getting the studs from Alko.

I'll keep my comments to myself in future.

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Follow Up By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 22:43

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 22:43
Was thankful for the tip with alko, lets leave it at that
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Reply By: The Bantam - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:51

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 11:51
Pretty well all trailer suppliers will either drill to requirement or supply blank hubs or drums that you can have drilled at an engineering works..worst case.

best case...... pull some studs and see how the splines on the replacement studs fit...assuming you have the correct stud pattern.

The splines should be a very frim fit...best way to insert them is with a wheel nut and a stack of washers as a puller.

the thread on the stud may have little to do with the spline where it engages the hub or drum.

cheers

AnswerID: 474462

Follow Up By: Lex M - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 12:19

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 12:19
My replacement metric studs from Alko had the correct spline and fitted perfectly.
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Reply By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 12:33

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 12:33
Guess I should of checked direct with Alko than going through a trailer place.

They sell a 12mm bolt to suit there hubs.

Thanks all for your input.

Kind Regards

Bernie
AnswerID: 474467

Reply By: Bernie C - Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 14:52

Monday, Jan 09, 2012 at 14:52
Just got back from ALKO over at Yatala, $1.00 each they charged me. :-)
AnswerID: 474478

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