Tuesday, Aug 23, 2011 at 13:55
Hi Sylvia,
my name is Peter from Battery Value Pty Ltd in
Brisbane, how are you?
Having come across quite a few solar regulator setups over the years, let me briefly give you a few pointers:
Solar panels:
can be rated 12V, 24V or higher.
12V panels have 36 visible 'cells', 24V ones have 72 cells (a cell count is useful for telling them apart).
Solar regulator:
can be either 'PWM', 'cheap MPPT', or 'true MPPT'.
PWM is the older technology and relies on a perfect match between panel voltage and battery voltage.
PWM only can make available 80% of rated panel wattage under best conditions.
The only advantage of PWM is that any power loss in the wires comes out of the 20% which aren't available to the battery anyway.
cheap MPPT solar regulators:
Some of these half baked units still rely on a perfect match between panel voltage and battery voltage, and lack other important features like multistage charging algorithm (optimised for simultaneous load e.g. fridge operation), and battery temperature sensor.
true MPPT solar regulators:
the panel voltage can be chosen freely. E.g. it now makes perfect sense to wire your 2x80W panels in series which gives 24V. This configuration reduces the power loss in the wires by 50%.
And most importantly, true MPPT solar regulators can make available almost 100% of panel power to the battery under best conditions.
So here's what to do:
Get a 'true MPPT' solar regulator - guess who sells these best value for money units ;)
Wire the two panels in series and connect them via ordinary auto wire to the solar regulator.
This connection is pluggable for quick disconnect - in case of a true MPPT, there's no need to install an Anderson plug due to the reduced current loading (an Anderson plug would be 10 times overkill in this setup, hence there's nothing to be gained by installing one).
Use 6mm auto wire between the solar regulator and the battery, mount the battery temperature sensor on either battery terminal and you're all set.
If you're technically inclined, you can purchase an optional display/remote control unit which gives you an insight in all sorts of variables concerning the battery and solar panel.
I'm more than happy to answer any questions you might have in this regards.
cheers, Peter
AnswerID:
463342
Follow Up By: Camping Under Stars- Tuesday, Aug 23, 2011 at 15:05
Tuesday, Aug 23, 2011 at 15:05
Hi Peter
Ok, but we just want to be able to plug them in where we unplug from the car, if we don't use the Anderson plug wouldn't we have to put another wire in to the battery, which is in the van under the microwave. How much are the MPPT regulators? and my husband and I are technically inclined so how much is the display unit too?
Thanks
Sylvia
FollowupID:
737157
Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Tuesday, Aug 23, 2011 at 15:27
Tuesday, Aug 23, 2011 at 15:27
Sylvia,
is there a dual battery system with an isolation switch in the car?
If yes, then you don't need to disconnect aux battery from car wiring for solar charging.
The solar regulator stays connected to the aux battery all the time, only the connection panel/solar regulator needs to be pluggable I presume?
But if you intend to frequently remove your aux battery from the car then yes, you need to install another plug between the aux and the solar regulator.
Our prices are extremely competitive, but sorry it's against this sites rules to post them here.
But you're most welcome to get in touch with us through our website contact form, details can be found in our profile,
or here.
cheers, Peter
FollowupID:
737160