Anderson plug from alternator

I've never used a Redarc just circuit breaker

HI Derek

Can you please post up a picture of yours that i have seen before and cant locate now showing following set up:

Main starter in car, aux 1 in car, aux 2 in van.

also need to know position and size of fuses etc that maybe needed. I was told by a "battery specialist" last week that fuses were optional between the batteries, he said i can connect directly between battery and isolator with no fuses - is that actually correct??

trying to set mine up now in my "new" 120 i just got and need to know does it matter where i put the isolator in car between starter and aux 1? (does it have to be near one battery rather than the other?)

then what do i put between aux 2 in van and aux 1 in car to separate them, or is it necessary, can i just connect batteries together via cables + ando plugs?

Not sure what isolator i will use at moment - redarc or other, not sure yet. had H/duty solenoid in last prado. "Battery specialist" was pushing a MATSON

I was also thinking about connecting up a battery volt meter i got from you for my last car and a optional start connection in the car on the dash. I have seen a photo of your new volt meter fitted in your 150 (which looks smaller than mine) that allows you to check either battery and connect them for jump start too i think from memory - what size is the unit and what price is it please

thanks Derek, i remember your diagrams being very simple to understand and your advice and service is always excellent. MANY THANKS MICK

Hi Mick

Here is how the isolator is connected, fuses must be used if the batteries are not very close to each other or there is any chance of the wiring being damaged in any way. Note: If you plan to use the jump start feature you can't fit fuses. This applies to batteries under the bonnet and close to each other, all other batteries and wiring MUST be fused.

Contact me for more info, drawings and specs.

Note: We no longer support Redarc or their products, we have been asked by Redarc not to sell their products.

Regards

Derek from ABR

Thanks Derek , hey are the exact pictures I had seen before and was looking for.

Couple more questions if I could just clarify please. Happy for you to reply direct to my email if easier (v8footy AT hotmail DOT com)

Q1 - Please clarify something that is different between both sketches. Sketch one shows Car Aux Negative connected to Chassis. Sketch 2 shows Car Aux and Car Starter Negatives linked directly together. Which way is the better in your opinion?

Q2 - You say to eliminate the fuses if I use an over-ride switch/function. Is that both of the fuses shown each side of the Isolator between the Car Starter and the Car Aux Batteries shown in your second drawing? If so, I keep the fuse to the Van Aux Battery even with over-ride? Also I am putting Car Aux on drivers side behind headlight - is that distance of cable ok if not fused because I am using the over-ride?

Q3 - Price please for your ABR isolator (to postcode 2560 if you need to know it)

Q4 - Price please also for your ABR over-ride switch/voltmeter as pictured on your dash. (it does both volt readings for both batteries and also connection for jump start??) Please also supply price for fuse(s) if they are needed after reading my Q2 above. I would rather get everything at once from you i think. I should have enough cable already, if not will let you know later.

Q5 - What are the physical dimensions of your pictured over-ride switch voltmeter?

Q6 - Its interesting looking at your 2nd diagram. Everyone here has told me I cannot connect both the Aux Car Battery and the Van Aux Battery to the same isolator. I was told to connect an isolator only between Car Starter and Car Aux, then connect the Car Aux separately to Van Aux by separate cable/anderson plugs. I like your way best as it was what I was asking others about. Will it only work with your isolator that way. Is there any reason to not do it your way and to run separately as others have told me? Does it effect any connections if I use your pictured dash over-ride switch voltmeter (other than fuses as you mentioned and my questions above on fuses)

Lastly, Q7 - do you have a 12" battery tray that fits the 120 series prado petrol to go behind drivers headlight and if so does it have support for power steering fluid resovoir. If you do, could you pass on the price of that too please. (I have seen your tray for the 150 series but not sure if you have one for the 120 and it to also suit petrol)

Many thanks for your time again, cheers Mick

PS - Sorry about so many Qs, just want to get it right and only do it once. The Minister for Finance here is not so happy me spending $ on the car and van when I am off work with no income at all due to spinal surgery for a back injury. Sure i will get over her "advice" in the long run - Just as long as I only spend once for what i do i should be ok (I hope) - cheers mick

Derek - i have found your web site again (having the internet go back up to speed here now certainly helps) so please disregard Q3, 4, 5, 7 as i think i have the info from there.

But if you have time I am unsure about Q 1, 2, 6 in my reply above

Thanks again mick

Hi Mick

I will email you so we do not hi-jack this thread or start a war.

Regards

Derek

I cant get what you are on about. The cable from the alternator to the battery has so little resistance in it that it does not matter which end of the cable he connects to.

Duncan did not say if the connection was to charge a battery or just power the things in his camper. If it is the latter he will not want an isolator in the line. As he is running the cable to a trailer he may just want to disconnect the trailer to protect the starting battery each night if he has a battery in the camper.

If he is going to use an isolator it really does not matter electrically which end of the alternator to battery cable he connects the isolator to.

Maybe he thinks that if he connects it to the Alternator, then when the engine is off, if he discharges the Trailer battery, it won't discharge the Main battery, saving the cost of an Isolator.

No, it's not practical to access the Alternator before the diodes. There's a very permanent connection between Alternator and Main Battery - that's why everybody goes to the expense and hassle of putting in an Isolator.

I think the main issue is that you can blow the fusible link between alternator and battery which is normally rated according to the output of the alternator.

With an anderson plug connected to the alternator, you are hooking up an auxillary battery on the wrong side of this fusible link. It becomes possible then to overload this fusible link during heavy loads such as cranking, or when the preheat circuit is active or winching because you can easily draw additional current from the auxillary battery.