Saturday, Sep 04, 2010 at 13:58
fugwurgin,
copied just for you :-)
Toyota diesel, Auto overdrive, runs on larger Ford
Longreach rims & rubber
Dual Hiclone II's, which if I wasn't 100% satisfied - I would have returned
Rotronics dual battery isolator, 'upgraded' alternator regulator & cabling
200+ Watt roof mounted Sölar system, Steca PR 15a Sölar regulator
Aux battery : 2 x Firstpower 100ah AGM DC's & Megapulse series lll
Cranking battery: 670cca $99 local brand with Megapulse series lV
300 wt Codek Pure Sine Wave Inverter & 4 x outlet power board
70 Lt Reefer Professional Fridge/Freezer, power connected 24/7
Stacer 420 Seahorse, 30hp Johnson outboard on Dunbier trailer
Raymarine fishfinder/gps, 8 x fishing rods, 2 x spear guns
Double bed, Digital camera, Dell laptop etc
Battery cables are 2B&S (32mm²)
Fridge power cable is 10mm²
I get 1OO % of the rated power from my SÖLAR pöwer system.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
* SÖLAR will charge a 12v battery system only when sun is shining!
* GENERATOR will charge 12v battery system only when turned on!
* While driving, alternator charge's the Auxiliary 12v battery system!
When you arrive at your
camp site the Auxiliary battery system is therefore fully charged, and if it’s a “reasonable capacity” battery (system) it may power the accessories for 3 days, therefore it will give you no power problems that night.
You can set up your battery charging system next day, after all you want to meet the neighbors and have a chat and a drink.
If you choose to
camp near the guy with 3 noisy kids, 2 dogs and generator, that’s your choice, after all he was there first !
#
GENERATOR power
When you need to use the generator you first must unload it, fill it with fuel and turn it on when the Auxiliary battery system voltage gets low, (yes, you have to be there to monitor the battery voltage) generally campers tend to start the Generator probably only every second afternoon or early evening, because the fridge uses most of the
battery power during the day in the higher ambient temperatures, caused by the constant opening of the fridge by the kids or when Dad obtains his fermented liquid refreshment.
The generator will charge the Auxiliary battery system, up to a point whereby the Auxiliary battery no longer accepts further charge, and at that point the generator is just ‘running’ - NØT increasing
battery power and doing nothing - except using fuel and as some would suggest, making a noise and giving off deadly fumes.
The Auxiliary battery system is therefore being constantly discharged during the day, often to very low battery voltage levels, because it’s NØT being continuously charged by the generator during its peak high draw and heavy usage times which is during the heat of the day.
(at time of writing I believe generators are not permitted in any National Park)
# SÖLAR power
Information based on the assumption your solar system is correctly specified, with quality solar regulator and storage battery system for the appliances you are using.
If you have to set it up because it’s a portable system, you do that next day, because it’s not going to work at night anyway, and you still have two more days power in the Auxiliary battery system.
You place the SÖLAR system in the sun at what-ever angle you desire, it can be horizontal, because it’s on the roof rack, or it can be free standing as a portable system whereby you can move it to follow the sun, which makes it work more efficiently - if you can really find the time.
Your SÖLAR system will charge your Auxiliary battery system, and continue to power all the 12v accessories during the day, which is the high drain and heavy battery use time anyway.
This will ensure the Auxiliary battery system is FULLY CHARGED at the end of each day, the Auxiliary battery system will then only have to power the 12v accessories during the night.
SÖLAR will start recharging the batteries again early next morning and again will run the appliances during the day.
* This is a very boring & repetitive procedure that will occur daily
* However, fortunately you don’t have to be there to supervise it :-))
The SÖLAR system will power your 12v accessories and charge the Auxiliary battery system, assuming it has been correctly specified and uses efficiently matched Sölar panels and Sölar regulator and is charging an efficient AGM Auxiliary battery system.
*During the day, an efficient SÖLAR system powers the 12v accessories and will also charge the Auxiliary battery
*During the day, the 12v accessories are NØT drawing any 12v power from the Auxiliary battery system
*Only during the night, is the 12v Auxiliary battery system powering the 12v accessories
As the Auxiliary AGM battery system (I use) gets closer to fully charged, the Steca SÖLAR regulator reduces the current to the Auxiliary batteries, hence there may be 12 Amps available at the SÖLAR system, but only a few of those Amps is made available to the AGM Auxiliary battery system, the Solar system will continue to run all the 12v accessories while the Auxiliary battery system remains fully charged.
There are two common forms of crystalline silicon used in making solar cells:
Mono-crystalline and Multi-crystalline.
Mono-crystalline silicon is 'grown' out of the crystallization ie. cooling from molten to solid. The solidified silicon crystal is such that its crystal lattice is universally aligned along a common axis.
Multi-crystalline on the other hand, is produced in a casting process similar to way glass is made. The silicon atoms are therefore randomly orientated.
The Mono-crystalline silicon process is more expensive than the Multi-crystalline process, but has the advantage of higher electrical efficiency with the greatest incremental improvements in optical conversion efficiency.
__________________________________________________________
Generally basic "elcheapo" solar regulators only work on an ‘on’ & ‘off’ principal
This type of regulator will definitely NØT give the same performance as a multi stage SÖLAR regulator.
*When using SÖLAR power, the Auxiliary battery remains fully charged at the “float” level, in my AGM battery system this is ~13.8v
*If the SÖLAR regulator is a quality engineered product it will have “Float” - “Boost” and “Equalize” Voltage programs and also "Pulse Width Modulation" just like expensive multi-stage battery chargers.
The Auxiliary battery system will be constantly maintained in a fully charged condition and will avoid sulphation of the wetcell Aux battery system, making the Aux battery last much longer than even the Cranking battery.
AGM's don't suffer sulphation problems due to their design.
*********************************************************
*MPPT controllers v conventional controllers
An MPPT controller, in addition to performing the function of a basic controller, also includes a DC voltage converter, converting the voltage of the panels to that required by the batteries.
In simple English, they attempt to keep the panel voltage at their Maximum Power Point, while supplying the varying voltage requirements of the battery.
Manufacturers claim various increases, some up to 30% power increase from solar panels using MPPT, which is most likely to be achieved only when the battery levels are low or light levels are low, in conditions where 12v battery or light levels are high there is not the same great power increase.
Indicative of better performance in Victoria than in
Kimberley or FNQ.
MPPT controllers are most effective under cold weather conditions and low battery conditions, cold weather is most likely in winter, the time when sun hours are low and you need the power to recharge batteries the most.
With low battery charge, the lower the state of charge in your battery, the more current a MPPT controller will be able to put into the battery, another time when the extra power is needed the most.
However, on the other hand if your solar system is even half efficient you will always have the battery bank close enough to fully charged, negating the various benefits of the MPPT controller and if it is in hot conditions then you have not gained from the cold weather benefits either.
I'm not saying the MPPT controller won't work at all, just that they do have benefits when their best conditions are met.
*********************************************************
# my SÖLAR ‘NUMBERS’ explained #
#-> "12 Amps produced @ Sölar panel, only 5 Amps is charging 14.3v AGM battery"
Steca Sölar regulator LCD screen shows 12 Amps is being produced @ Sölar panel
"Vøltage gauge" shows AGM battery is 14.3 Volts (charging)
"Ampere gauge" shows AGM battery being charged @ 5 Amps
This shows NOT all 12 Amps produced by Sölar system is charging AGM battery
#-> "Fridge drawing 7.8 Amps from Sölar system & 0.5 Amp is still charging 13.8v AGM battery"
Steca Sölar regulator LCD screen shows fridge is drawing 7.8 Amps
"Vøltage gauge" shows AGM battery is 13.8 Vølts (charging)
"Ampere gauge" shows AGM battery being charged @ 0.5 Amp (½ Amp)
Note: These statistics are indicated while Sölar system is actually POWERING the fridge/freezer - NOT the AGM battery.
#-> "Just 3.3 Amps running fridge is from 13v AGM battery"
Steca Sölar regulator LCD screen shows 13 Volts
"Vøltage gauge" shows AGM battery is 13 Volts
"Ampere gauge" shows (negative) -3.3 Amps
Fridge is drawing 3.3 Amps from AGM battery, with balance supplied from Sölar system
#-> "Just 4.9 Amps @ Sölar panel, & only 3 Amps powering fridge/freezer?"
Steca Sölar regulator LCD screen shows 4.9 Amps is produced @ Sölar panel (41% capacity)
"Vøltage gauge" shows AGM battery is 13.1 Volts (charging)
"Ampere gauge" shows fridge drawing 3 Amps from AGM battery
Fridge/freezer is running, drawing 3 Amps in excess of Amps supplied by Sölar system.
#-> "10+ Amps charging 13.7v AGM battery"
This is the view of the Steca Sölar Regulator LCD screen used when travelling, showing AGM battery Voltage as 13.7 Volts and all facilities working correctly.
"Vøltage gauge" shows AGM battery is 13.7 Volts (charging)
"Ampere gauge" shows 10+ Amps charging AGM battery
#-> "100% State of Charge for 12v AGM battery"
Steca Sölar regulator LCD screen shown in “State of Charge” mode.
This mode only works accurately when the Auxiliary battery system is powered by Sölar system - NOT when charged by Alternator.
The ‘State of Charge’ mode is used 0NLY when camped.
The ‘State of Charge’ % value is more accurate, it evaluates what Amps have gone in and out of the Auxiliary battery over a period of time.
The Voltage and Amps 'numbers' can be seen on my "Voltage" and "Ampere" gauges mounted below the Steca Sölar regulator.
It can very clearly be seen in these pictures, my AGM Auxiliary battery system is maintained 'fully' charged during the day by the Sölar system.
The AGM battery system is not required to power fridge/freezer when there is in excess of ~10 Amps available (out of a possible 12 Amps available) from Sölar system.
Only when the Sölar power system is nøt producing sufficient Sölar power (eg: 7 amps) to independently run the fridge/freezer, will the fridge/freezer then take just the 'difference' (eg: 3 Amps) direct from the AGM Auxiliary battery system.
This can be seen when the Ampere gauge reads in the 'negative' (left/red) instead of the 'positive' (right/black) side of the gauge.
Most days the fridge/freezer will never take any power from the Auxiliary battery system, which is maintained fully charged all day and ONLY powers the fridge/freezer at night.
Remembering the AGM battery system is (generally) fully charged as night falls, during the evening the AGM battery system supply's the power for the fridge/freezer and all accessories.
The AGM battery system will be charged @ maximum Amps available from early next morning by the Sölar system till the AGM battery system is once again fully charged.
The AGM battery system does not go below 12v during the evening, so it does not require the same long charge as a flat battery does.
My fridge/freezer has a runtime of ~25% (~16 mins per hour) so in its “off time” the battery is recharged if required.
When in only reasonable conditions, the Sölar power system powers the fridge with some assistance from the AGM battery system, then in the fridge off time the battery is once again recharged (46 mins per hour) by the Sölar power system.
My Sölar power system remains 100% charged in reasonable sunny conditions.
* this is how my Sölar power system actually works
* don't assume ALL Sölar systems are created equal
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
At the time of writing, a Sölar power 'blog' states:
"Watts = Volts x Amps, so with the reduced voltage and a simple controller we can deliver to the battery only about 70 - 80% of the panel's rated wattage"
This information is absolute rubbish and incorrect !!
It is incorrect, because it wrongly uses '12v' and not the actual Voltage produced @ the Sölar panel (~17v) for their mathematical equation to show the current (not watts) available from the Sölar panel which is available to the battery.
By way of explanation, yes, a BP 80 Watt Sölar power produces ~4.6 amps, and yes, 4.6 amps x '12 volts' is only 55.2 watts when you multiply the wrong numbers.
However, the undisputed fact is, the actual Voltage produced by an 80 Watt Sölar power is in the vicinity of 17.5v (not 12v) so the mathematical equation should be:
4.6 (Amps) x 17.5 (Volts) = 80 Watts
The answer is then correct and accurate and is 100% of the Sölar panel manufactures stated values.
This can also be verified by looking on any 80 Watt Sölar panel technical information website or the specifications written on the back of the Sölar panel also.
Remember, it's *Amps* that charge a 12v battery, not Watts anyway.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Solar Power Glossary:
* Solar panel - a device that can generate electricity from sunlight.
* Amorphous Silicon - Thin-film, photovoltaic material. Amorphous silicon has a lower efficiency than Crystallline silicon.
* Crystalline Silicon – Mono or Multi crystalline silicon. Silicon crystals are grown and sawn into wafers to construct solar cells.
Cystalline silicon has a more rigid atomic structure than amorphous silicon, this allows electrical current to flow more easily.
* Multi-crystalline - Many slices of photovoltaic crystal material cut from a lump of crystal.
* Mono-crystalline - ONE slice of photovoltaic crystal material cut from a lump of crystal.
* Poly-crystalline - the name used by Sharp in Europe to describe panels where you can't see the definitive edge of the photovoltaic crystal material in the solar panel.
Referred to as the "new technology" panel in my photo of my two solar panels above.
* Conversion Efficiency - The ratio of the electric power produced by a solar panel to the power of the sunlight on the device.
* Current - The amount of electricity flowing through an electrical circuit measured in Amps.
* Direct Current (DC) - This electricity flows constantly in one direction - this is the type of electricity generated by a 12v battery.
* Energy - The ability to do work. Solar panels are able to convert the energy in sunlight to electrical energy.
* Inverter - A device for converting 12v DC electricity into 240v AC electricity
* Parallel Connection - Connecting positive (+) terminals to positive (+) terminals in an electrical circuit. Solar panels connected in parallel will sum their currents, while voltage will remain the same.
* Series Connection - Connecting positive (+) terminals to negative (-) terminals in an electrical circuit. Solar panels connected in series will sum their Voltages, while Current will remain the same.
* Voltage (V) - The electrical force driving a current, measured in volts.
* Watt (W) - Measure of electrical power. It’s the product of voltage x current.
Hopefully this helps clarify some typical myths of SÖLAR power, supply & distribution.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
12 Vølt batteries . . .
(a work still in progress)
"Battery"
A black, brown or beige "plastic box" containing ingredients capable of creating a chemical reaction !
Basically, the purer the chemical ingredients, the ‘faster’ and also more ‘efficient’ is the chemical reaction, hence the "better" the battery.
Deep cycle batteries have different electrical characteristics to Cranking batteries.
Cranking batteries are designed to provide a very large amount of current for a short period of time as is required to start an engine.
Cranking batteries are rated as: 'Cold Cranking Amps' (CCA)
Deep Cycle batteries are designed to be discharged over a very long period of time and recharged many hundreds or even thousands of times.
Deep cycle batteries are rated as: 'Ampere Hours' (Ah)
The (Ah) rating specifies the amount of current in Amps that the battery can supply over the specified number of hours.
A battery rated at 120Ah could successfully run the average 12v fridge for about two days without damage.
# Battery Charging - Voltages & Currents
Wetcell (lead-acid) batteries should be charged at no more than the C/8 rate for sustained periods.
(C/8 is the battery capacity @ 20-hour rate, divided by 8)
(example: 100 AH battery) 100 / 8 = 12 Amps
* Bulk Charge
- 1st stage of 3 stage battery charging
"Current" is sent to battery at maximum rate battery will accept until "voltage" rises to near full charge level (80% - 90%).
"Voltages" at this stage typically vary from 10.5 volts to 15 volts.
There is no correct "Voltage" for bulk charging, but there may be limits on the maximum "Current" the battery cable used can take.
* Absorption Charge
- 2nd stage of 3 stage battery charging
"Voltage" remains constant and "current" gradually tapers off as internal resistance increases during charging.
"Voltages" are typically around 14.2v to 15.5v
* Float Charge
- 3rd stage of 3 stage battery charging
After battery reaches full charge, charging "Voltage" is reduced to a lesser level (12.8v to 13.4v)
This is also referred to as MAINTENANCE or TRICKLE charge, as its main purpose is to keep a charged battery from discharging
# State of Charge
For longest life, batteries should be maintained above 50% State of Charge
Occasional drops to 30% & 20% are not harmful, but continual discharges to those levels will shorten battery life considerably.
Recharge the battery ASAP and never leave the battery in a discharged condition.
S o C _ Voltage
100% _ 12.7
90% _ _ 12.5
80% _ _ 12.4
70% _ _ 12.3
60% _ _ 12.2
50% _ _ 12.1
40% _ _ 11.9
30% _ _ 11.7
20% _ _ 11.6
10% _ _ 11.3
. 0% _ _ 10.5
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cable Voltage drop calculation table.
Total cable length (Mtrs) x current (amps) x 0.017 = “?” divided by cable diameter (mm²) = Voltage drop
Eg: 10 x 6 x 0.017 = 1.02 divided by 4 = 0.25 Volt
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
American Wire Gauge (AWG) is a US standard for wire conductor sizes
the "gauge" number is related to the diameter of the actual metal cable
the higher the number, the smaller the diameter and thinner the cable
An easy to read 'link' to compare the thickness of cables:
#ttp://www.dave-cushman.net/elect/wiregauge.html
(replace the '#' with a "h" before attempting to use)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Anderson SB50 50 Amp
Grey Housing and #6 Contacts.
Recommended cable Size: 6 - 16 AWG
# NOT 6mm auto cable
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
0.85 mm dia - 4 sq mm
1.04 mm dia - 6 sq mm
1.35 mm dia - 10 sq mm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cable area 6 mm²
Diameter 2.7 mm
DC-resistance 0.0028 Ohm/m
Cable area 32 mm²
Diameter 6.5 mm
DC-resistance 0.0005 Ohm/m
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- ELECTRICITY DEFINITIONS -
#Amperage
Unit of electrical current.
This is the flow rate of electrons moving through a circuit, very roughly analogous to liters per minute flowing from a pipe.
#Ampere-hour
Measure of energy quantity, equal to amperes times hours.
Used to measure battery capacity.
#Alternating Current (AC)
Current flows back and
forth through a conductor (cycle).
In each cycle, the electrons flow first in one direction, then the other.
#Direct Current (DC)
Current flows in one direction only.
#Electricity
The flow of electrons through a conductor.
#Ground
A conducting connection between an electrical circuit or equipment and earth.
#Hertz (Hz)
Number of cycles per second.
#Resistance
Anything that impedes the flow of electrons through a conductor
(measured in ohms)
#Voltage
The force that causes electricity to flow through a conductor
(measured in volts)
#Open Circuit Voltage
The voltage an alternator or generator produces when NOT connected to a Load.
#Parallel connection
In DC electrical circuits such as a battery bank or solar panel array, this is a connection where all negative terminals are connected to each other, and all positive terminals are connected to each other.
Voltage stays the same, but amperage is increased.
#Series connection
In DC electrical circuits such as a battery bank or solar panel array, this is a connection where all the negative terminals are connected to the neighboring positive terminals.
Voltage increases, but amperage remains the same.
Maîneÿ . . .
AnswerID:
429344
Follow Up By: fugwurgin - Saturday, Sep 04, 2010 at 14:58
Saturday, Sep 04, 2010 at 14:58
mainey
you are a legend.
that is a great reference, i have copied it into a word doc sure to be referred to many times.
i really appreciate the time and effort you took to paste that, many thanks.
i love the no-nonense explanations and terminology.
hope you enjoy the rest of your weekend!
anthony
FollowupID:
700127
Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Saturday, Sep 04, 2010 at 15:05
Saturday, Sep 04, 2010 at 15:05
Anthony,
Thank you :-)
Maîneÿ . . .
FollowupID:
700130
Follow Up By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Saturday, Sep 04, 2010 at 17:52
Saturday, Sep 04, 2010 at 17:52
Fugwurgin, Be carefull how much of this statement you believe.
"At the time of writing, a Sölar power 'blog' states:
"Watts = Volts x Amps, so with the reduced voltage and a simple controller we can deliver to the battery only about 70 - 80% of the panel's rated wattage"
This information is absolute rubbish and incorrect !!
It is incorrect, because it wrongly uses '12v' and not the actual Voltage produced @ the Sölar panel (~17v) for their mathematical equation to show the current (not watts) available from the Sölar panel which is available to the battery.
By way of explanation, yes, a BP 80 Watt Sölar power produces ~4.6 amps, and yes, 4.6 amps x '12 volts' is only 55.2 watts when you multiply the wrong numbers.
However, the undisputed fact is, the actual Voltage produced by an 80 Watt Sölar power is in the vicinity of 17.5v (not 12v) so the mathematical equation should be:
4.6 (Amps) x 17.5 (Volts) = 80 Watts
The answer is then correct and accurate and is 100% of the Sölar panel manufactures stated values.
This can also be verified by looking on any 80 Watt Sölar panel technical information website or the specifications written on the back of the Sölar panel also.
Remember, it's *Amps* that charge a 12v battery, not Watts anyway. "
FollowupID:
700134