FJ40 Loose Chassis Rivets

Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 13:50

ThreadID: 7978 Views:4513 Replies:4 FollowUps:5

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Brendon

I have a "New" (New to me anyway!) '73 FJ40 Landcruiser. It has a fair bit of slop in the steering. Apart from the obvious bush and joint wear which I am fixing, I noticed the RH Chassis rail has loose rivets where it joins the front crossmember. This allows the chassis rail to twist when steering.
I am considering re-drilling and replacing the rivets with high tensile bolts. Another alternative is to weld, although I assume this may result in fatigue cracks.
Can anyone give me some advice as to the best fix for this problem.

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Reply By: Tony - Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 14:49

Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 14:49

G'day Brendon, always bolt never weld, the chassis must be able to twist as you say, it will crack next to the weld, with bolts and ny-lock nuts it will still be able to move as required.

AnswerID: 34604

Follow Up By: Brendon - Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 16:06

Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 16:06

Thanks Tony. I assume high tensile bolts would be best?

FollowupID: 24955

Follow Up By: Old Jack - Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 16:21

Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 16:21

Brendon, anything thats attached to your truck you should always use high tensile bolts, use grade 8 as a minimum for everything as a minimum standard and 12.9 for something like what you are going to do on your chassis! it's just not worth the risk of using garden variety nuts and bolts. I've seen 3/4" bolts from a hardware store shear off where a 1/2 high tensil bolt used to be!

good luck with your truck repairs

Jack

FollowupID: 24957

Reply By: Brendon - Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 16:49

Tuesday, Oct 21, 2003 at 16:49

Thanks

AnswerID: 34623

Reply By: Nav 80 - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2003 at 11:46

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2003 at 11:46

Do you know that the steering idler bush up front is adjustable?

AnswerID: 34697

Follow Up By: Brendon - Wednesday, Oct 22, 2003 at 12:57

Wednesday, Oct 22, 2003 at 12:57

No.
There is a fair bit of movement in the main pivot where it attaches to the bracket mounted on the chassis rail. I was going to pull it apart later this week. It has a castellated nut top and bottom, but I have not seen any other form of adjustment. The arm rocks on the pivot, moving up/down and laterally. I assumed I would need a new bush and pin, or maybe have to sleeve the arm and re-drill. Of course I am guessing, because I have not dissasembled yet.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

FollowupID: 25059

Follow Up By: Tony - Thursday, Oct 23, 2003 at 10:30

Thursday, Oct 23, 2003 at 10:30

There is a cone shaped bush inside, adjusted by undoing the 14mm bolt on top and using a shifter or simular turn the large threaded top clockwise then when tight enough lock it in place with the 14mm bolt.

The cone bush is a spare part, you maybe better starting off with a new one.

FollowupID: 25135

Reply By: Nav 80 - Thursday, Oct 23, 2003 at 12:32

Thursday, Oct 23, 2003 at 12:32

The adjustment is as Tony said however to do the job properly you should jack the front wheels clear of the ground thendo the adjustment. Check the tension on the bush by turning the steering wheel, if you overtighten the steering will be tight. Tension the idler bush until the steering is still turning free,if there is still play in the idler bush at this point it will need replacement. From memory I think Toyota do a service kit and it is easy to fit.
You may also find you need to adjust the freeplay in the steering box this is tested again with the wheels off the ground. Rock the steering back and forth and you will feel a section of movement before the wheels start to move. On the side of the steering box is a nut with a screwdriver sloted bolt in the middle,back of the nut and tighten this bolt until excessive play in the steering is removed but the steering wheel still moves freely then relock the nut. If the steering box is worn you may still have a bit of freeplay but it should be an improvement. Hope I have been some help.

AnswerID: 34844