No trawling... GU I - III Blow up cause....

Any idea how much the mods would set me back? Still, would it only warn you of this to come or can you prevent a BANG!!? Waverly Nissan told me that from the GU IV they seems to have gotten better.... But they are around the $30.000, in which case I'd rather go for a good Lux!

This will give you an idea of what to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MATTY83
Ok I have spent hours looking thru this forum. Looking at what mods to do first and basicly most people are saying this, no order,

. Block EGR
. Fit pyro
. Fit boost gauge
. Fit manual boost control
needle value for dawes set up

alot for the threads mention to do these things but i dont understand why and how they work. So if anyone could explain this to me or send us the previous thread its explained on that would be great.
The order is important IMHO. This is what I would recommend:

1. Order a Dawes valve from 3 Bar Racing in the US. Do this first as they take a few weeks to arrive. http://3barracing.com/product_8.htm

2. Get an EGT gauge. This is arguably the most important gauge for your truck. They should be installed in the dump pipe as close to the outlet of the turbochargers exhaust housing as possible and 550C is the accepted max. I have an after-market exhaust which has a bung in it already.

3. Get a boost gauge. You will need this primarly to set up the Dawes valve and needle valve. After it is set up, it is pretty much set and forget . . . just glance at it every now and then.

4. Buy a new MAF from Garry (nizzbits on the forum). They should be about $220. Keep it in your glovebox until you fit your catch-can.

5. Once you have your boost and EGT gauges installed you can get to know your truck. You will see the boost fluctuate everywhere, this is normal at this stage. Keep an eye on EGTs and back off the throttle if they get over 550C.

6. Get yourself a catch-can installed to stop blow-by fouling your MAF. There are heaps of threads on the forum about this so take a look-see. I am using a modified CKD oil-air separator designed for compressors.

7. After you have installed the catch-can, fit your new MAF. Clean the old one with contact cleaner or MAF cleaner and keep it in your glovebox as a spare (assuming it is not stuffed).

8. When your dawes valve arrives, fit it in a boost limiting configuration. This will mean your ECU is still controlling the turbo boost but overboosts will no longer occur. It should limit to around 16PSI max. Your boost gauge will tell the story here. Best to drive around for a week or so like this, just so that you limit the number of changes you do in one hit. Just makes troubleshooting easier if anything doesnt work out.

9. Next step is to get your needle valve. There are a few options, but I use a FluTec DV-6. Was $35 when I bought it a while back, but they have gone up since.

10. Block your EGR and fit the needle valve at the same time as well as bypassing the Nissan factory boost control solenoid. This is where things really start to get interesting as you now have total control over max boost and the spool rate. By this time you should be seeing lower EGTs on average and having a more responsive bus to boot. You need to do the EGR block/needle valve/solenoid bypass at the same time as they all work together.

I have done some other things and while they are really in the search for performance, EGTs have also benefited.
- 3" exhaust
- I/C fan
- recored I/C
- Lift pump
- Shift kit in the auto
- Trans line pressure solenoid resister mod
- T/C lockup, etc, etc, etc

Boy, that is the whole enchelada ain't it.

I started with the gauges, clean my MAF and bought a spare.

Having monitored it for a couple of years now I'm pretty confident I'll see anything strange going on. Boost fluctuates from 5-7 at cruise to 15-18 when the boot is in. I've never seen more than 450C

I did buy a catch can but have not fitted it yet. The filter goes get dirty on the upstream side so there is definitely blow back but it you clean your MAF at each oil change you should be OK.

OBT

DAVE,
That sure is a great explanation. How much did that roughly set you back (incl / excl labour?). Will see if buying a fairly low km GU I - III with these mods would be worth it...

Dutchy,
It wasn't my car I have a 4.2 Patrol, It was one of the guys on the Patrol Forum, Like I said if you check on that forum you will get heaps of info on Patrols.
Cheers Dave..

Cheers Dave,

Been reading forums for ages now (not just on the patrol) and haven't come across it yet...will keep searching! Cheers!

Try herehttp://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/

Why bother with the drama, rather get the patrol 4,2 or petrol on gas, or cruiser or pajero.

Don't tempt fate!!!!

"puttputt posted:
Why bother with the drama, rather get the patrol 4,2 or petrol on gas, or cruiser or pajero.

Don't tempt fate!!!!"

I'm with puttputt FWIW.

In fact, the only way I would buy a 3.0 is if I could follow the footsteps of Project TONI and change the engine out immediately for something else. But that means big bucks up front, so I stick with my reliable GQ. They're getting harder to find good ones admittedly, but the GQ and the 80 series Toyota are near-as-dammit unbreakable IMO. Keep them maintained and they won't let you down.

Cheers

Brian

Agree.... couldn't drive a car that could blow up any moment.... The surf has issues, but I'd have $10.000 up my sleeve....

Starting to take smaller SUV's and AWD's into the equation, 4WD's will push the budget (either purchase or repairs)