Problem - How to check the gauges ?

Submitted: Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 16:35
ThreadID: 77579 Views:3441 Replies:7 FollowUps:7
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I'v just finished fitting the VDO EGT gauge to the GU3.Lt TD and the bl#@*@dy things not working.
It's not an easy job and I've checked the wiring . . . . the +& - power check out, the probe lead red is on No1 - the yellow on No2 but the needles not budging. I haven't shortened the supplied cables.
So is it the probe or the gauge ???? If so, how the devil does one get this tested ? "Arrrrgh !!!!"

Where are you experts ??
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Reply By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 17:37

Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 17:37
Salty my old son,

I think this is the sort of problem best discussed over the kitchen table with a couple of Bundy and coke. hmmm......... when would be a good time???

Hocka
AnswerID: 412277

Follow Up By: Member - Salt grinder - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:43

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:43
Some wise words over the Bundy Hockas.
Only have to sort out the light dimming prob now. A couple more Bundies might sort it out . . . . . wha' d'ya reckon ??



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Reply By: Falco80 - Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 20:01

Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 20:01
Hi mate, is the probe fitted in the turbo's dump pipe? You have taken it for a quick drive to check right?? The engine will have to to be under load for the gauge to read. It will not show a temperature just idling as the VDO gauge starts at 100deg C. If the needle still does not move, then i'm not sure. Re-check you rwiring connections maybe....

Cheers,
Dan
AnswerID: 412289

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 20:29

Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 20:29
So does my Autometer but it sits at ambient until I start the motor..

Did you by any chance alter the length of the wire between the probe and the gauge as that is a definite no no with mine.


The engine doesnt have to be under load at all as idle temp in the exhaust is well over 100deg

Does the light in the gauge work when you turn your lights on and have you metered the 12 volt to see if its where it should be.

Mine was really easy to set up


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Follow Up By: Member - Salt grinder - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:12

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:12
Thanks Gra
Working OK now thanks, took it for drive this morning & it kicked in immediately . . . . . . sighhhs and smiles !

The 3 gauges are in a pillar pod and I took the light circuit back to the reostat and split into the wire to the dash lights which I had tested with a probe. The obvious idea to dim the gauge lights along with the dash.
Strangest thing I have to sort now is that when I dim the dash . . . the new pod gauge lights go up bright, they are working opposite to each other not in unisone.

I'll get my mind around that tomorrow.



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Follow Up By: Member - Salt grinder - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:20

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:20
Thanks Dan
You win the beer for the correct answer.

Took it for drive this morning & it kicked in immediately . . . . . . sighhhs and smiles !

The 3 gauges are in a pillar pod and I took the light circuit back to the reostat and split into the wire to the dash lights which I had tested with a probe. The obvious idea to dim the gauge lights along with the dash.
Strangest thing I have to sort now is that when I dim the dash . . . the new pod gauge lights go up bright, vice versa, they are working opposite to each other not in unison.

I'll get my mind around that tomorrow.


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Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 15:05

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 15:05
One question remains Is it a Fahrenheit or Celsius gauge

My Celsius one moves almost immediately on idle and goes to over 100 C before moving out of the garage.

ATM its sitting in the garage and starting it and within a minute its on 120C


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Follow Up By: Thermoguard Instruments - Sunday, Apr 11, 2010 at 08:47

Sunday, Apr 11, 2010 at 08:47
Re. the dash lights: Sounds like rheostat is in the negative/ground side of the original dash lamp circuit. As you wind up the resistance, the voltage across the lamps falls but the voltage at the 'hot' side of the rheostat rises towards 12V. If you pod lamps are wired from the 'hot' side of the pot to ground they will work vice versa, as described.

Try temporarily connecting the pod lamp 'ground' wire to 12V and see if all works properly. If so, re-arrange the wiring so the wire colours are correct (for example: pod lamp red to +12V, pod lamp black to 'hot' side of rheostat.)

Ian
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FollowupID: 682490

Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 21:30

Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 21:30
Another thing could be is that you have taken the 12 v off a light circuit and it wont go without the lights on



AnswerID: 412298

Reply By: Star Bug - Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 21:52

Friday, Apr 09, 2010 at 21:52
fitted one about a month ago. easy as pie.

Go back to basics. Check you power is on the corect teminals, and check you thermocouple is correctly wired all the way through.

if you can remove the therocouple. connect a multimeter set on milli or better micro volts to the termials, and heat the tip of the therocouple with a ciggarette lighter. you should see a rise in voltage.

AnswerID: 412306

Reply By: Member - Malcolm (Townsville) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 11:31

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 11:31
Salt grinder, I used to have one of THOSE vehicles ;-)

One of the mistakes I made with the VDO EGT Gauge was to shorten the wire. I crimped it but then took the vehicle to an auto leccie to wire the rest of the stuff. When he pulled the wire my crimping fell apart so he soldered it. The gauge never worked all the way home. (20km). I contacted VDO and was told NEVER solder the wire. (That is why people say not to shorten the wire). It CAN be crimped and after doing that properly the gauge worked correctly.

Malcolm


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AnswerID: 412356

Reply By: Thermoguard Instruments - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:02

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:02
Hi Again Salty,

Please disregard my recent reply to your "where to fit the probe", as it seems it's too late.

If your EGT gauge is still not working, try this: remove the probe and heat the tip with a match or cigarette lighter to see if the needle moves up.

If not, are you sure the probe wires are the right way around? For American ANSI standard type-K thermocouples, the Red lead is Negative and the Yellow lead is Positive. (I don't know what No.1 and No.2 terminals are on a VDO gauge but if No.1 is positive, you're the wrong way around!)

If this all checks out OK and it's still not working, you may need to test the thermocouple with a multimeter. On a low Ohms range, measure between the red & yellow leads with the probe disconnected from the gauge. My thermocouples read between 10 to 15 Ohms at ambient temp. [This may vary with different probes and different meters, as the tiny thermoelectric voltage developed by the probe could have a different effect on the displayed resistance.] An open circuit (infinite or very high Ohms) means a faulty probe - take it back for a replacement.

Hope this helps.

Ian
AnswerID: 412376

Follow Up By: Member - Salt grinder - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:24

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:24
Thanks Ian

All OK now after a drive under load this morning, it required a bit more than just idle to kick it in.

I sometimes question my sanity . . . . and then it answers back.
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Reply By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:59

Saturday, Apr 10, 2010 at 14:59
Yep, told ya a couple of Bundies and a serve of the best fish in town would find the answer.
Hocka
AnswerID: 412382

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