1HZ Injector Pump Tuning

Just leave it as it is, you wouldn't notice any difference, As an old truckie I've heard many stories about opening up the pump, next you see then parked up with blown engines , cracked pistons , it adds more heat to the top of the piston .

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1/8 of a turn would be way too much for a naturally aspirated. If you do it the correct amount is one poofteenth.
Its a good idea to have an EGT guage if you start mucking around.

I had a naturally aspirated 100 series (1HZ) and went the whole hog!
Snorkel, mandrel 3" system and full dyno tune and pump set up by fuel injection specialist.
Yes the figures were better, than standard, yes it sounded good from the new muffller, but as soon as I put the caravan on the back it became a slug again!
Ok for a steady long and slow but no get up and go if and when needed.
Would I have bothered if I new what the outcome would be? No.

Now have a TD Troopy and there is no comparison when towing and fuel economy is better too as its not struggling all the time.


As for you question, I'd get it set up on a dyno by someone who knows what they are doing, and maybe consider an a/market turbo?

If you are asking the question then that tells me you know little so don't touch it but get it tuned, ie valve clearances, injectors and pump and then you will notice a difference. If you are in NSW then MM and I will give you the name of the crew who did such a great job on our 1HZ.

As others have said don't mess about with the pump. They should only be touched by professional diesel injection workshops.
Jon

I agree with the previous posts, don't adjust without at least an EGT gauge so you can see the effect. The 1HZ do not like running high exhaust temps and can result in blown piston or cracked head if you take it too far.

Having sad that, I have a 1HZ with aftermarket turbo, but have both boost and EGT gauges. Yes , I have 'played' with the fuel delivery and it's very touchy indeed. Quite a bit of experimenting to get it just right with a good (read safe) compromise between power and EGT.

Cheers
Gerry

Gday
I would like to know where the "extra air" comes from.?

I have always been told, by 1/2 decent machanics, that a motor can only take, or suckk in so much air..
You are really only putting cleaner and cooler air into the motor.
The question you need to ask is just how much more fuel it will use, if You were to tweek the pump..... More fuel, more heat. ( big bang theory )

Turbo charging, and super charging, are a whole different ball game, and if not done right things go bang.
From what information I can gather, basically the same principle applies, but with more variables. Hence the need to get professionals to do the work..ie Dyno tuning, injector timing, and heaps of other things.

Cheers
Bucky

Peter, on naturally aspirated 1HZ you can wind your max fuel up "or in" and give it a go. You will find it will make a small difference and it is a balance between smoke and power. You will not hurt anything as there will never be enough heat to do any damage to your pistons or valves.

Just screw it in, little by little until your happy but it is a good idea to get a mate in another vehicle behind you to check for smoke as it is very hard to see it as a driver. I would go the 1/8 turn and then bring it back if you dont like the smoke. Just remember where the original setting was. Some people dont realise that pumps can wear the opposite way as well and can cause the governor to supply less fuel at max fuel.

If you had a turbo it may be a different story. I have increased my max fuel on my 12HT to compensate for increased boost of 15psi, so your theory is sound if... you can actually get some more air in there. I have heard that facing your scoop 90 deg towards your windscreen can increase the ram effect but have never tried it. It might pressurise the air more because it has hit a solid object and forces it into the scoop better ?? Most european trucks now have their scoops at 90deg but I fail to see how it might help. Have fun , Dave