80 series lights, upgrade, wiring harness and fuse load

Submitted: Saturday, Jun 21, 2008 at 18:24
ThreadID: 59065 Views:19383 Replies:7 FollowUps:4
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Hoping someone can help me out with some hints, suggestions and answers.
Looking at various options for upgrade of '95 Multivalve 80 series lights, due to fact that low beam might as well be a dolphin torch.
Users may know, high beam + super oscars, down to low beam... "oohhhh hope nothing in front of me bigger than a rabbit...."

Looked at HID replacement. mmmmmmm not yet convinced.

Looked at globe up grade + (poss) wiring harness upgrade.
100/130 H4 globes will give me 100w on low beam.
Each side fused to 15 amp each.
But If I have 100/130w for low beam outer,(cause thats where the problem always is), thats drawing 10.8 amps (on high beam - 130w), leaving only 4.2 max for high beam inner = 50w.
Any one see a problem with running a relay for the H/beam headlights? Am I correct in thinking that the headlights relay is set up different to a normal spotlight setup?
Does an after market wiring harness upgrade include any increase in amp loading available? How would the headlight relay handle the extra load ( i think they are 40A). I suspect I may be pushing things to the limit here? Dont wanna see a meltdown, cause I know where it will happen, in the middle of the night, in the middle of nowhere....
I am at least 2 hrs from nearest auto elec.
Even thinking heat may be an issue in the small headlights.
Any one done anything similar?
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Reply By: TD100 - Saturday, Jun 21, 2008 at 18:38

Saturday, Jun 21, 2008 at 18:38
I wouldnt stick those globes in 80 series lights,cook the reflectors in no time.use +80 60/55 watt globes in either IPF or Hella inserts with a relay/wiring upgrade.put landing light globes(from aircraft) in the high beam inners and you will have dynamite low and high beam lights not even requiring driving lights.i did a similar set up in my 80 but i didnt use the +80s as they wernt around then.there is nothing in the wiring/relay upgrade, any half decent auto lecky or savvy DIYer will do i in no time.cheers Paul
AnswerID: 311483

Reply By: drewab - Saturday, Jun 21, 2008 at 20:12

Saturday, Jun 21, 2008 at 20:12
Bushy,
I upgraded the outer lights on my 80 only. From ARB I got new lights and an upgraded harness with relays and fuses, the relay holder wasn't real flash as the relay would half pop out without knowing and when I turned on the lights half the holder would melt and cause a few drama's. I believe this has been fixed. At the time I also got IPF spotlights and the wiring harness for these as well. Still going well about 12 years old. The light upgrade harness just plugs in, no cutting needed. I'd do it again, but check out the relay holders.

Cheers Drew
AnswerID: 311512

Reply By: Muzzgit [WA] - Saturday, Jun 21, 2008 at 22:41

Saturday, Jun 21, 2008 at 22:41
I know two people who have tried to fix this.

One, who's brother is an auto sparkie, had the whole thing re-wired so he had hi/lo in all four lights. It was a big job but it worked very well.

The other had a Pirhana wiring loom fitted, which did make a difference but I don't think he was too impressed considering the price. The wiring loom provides more amps to each light through seperate relays. He has since added philips PLUS 50 globes and is happier.
AnswerID: 311540

Reply By: Member - Douglas M (SA) - Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 00:01

Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 00:01
Look here
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/lights/80wiring.html
I did this upgrade and it works a treat. I have 100 watt high beam and 100/60 watt High/low. I think I'm going to change to 130/100 high lows.
Doug
AnswerID: 311546

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 00:42

Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 00:42
The Landcruiser wiring is complicated because all the switching and warning lights are on the negative side. Go down to ARB and buy a harness - it will save you a heap of dramas, and for the number of parts involved, its very good value. The globes are up to you - ARB will probably suggest nbo more than the 110/80, but theres an endless variety of "plus" globes these days. Also their expensive "fatboy" globes work well in other vehicles.
AnswerID: 311550

Reply By: Member - Olcoolone (S.A) - Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 11:01

Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 11:01
Why does every one insist on installing relays in Toyota's when they don't have them fitted as standard?

Positive power to the headlights on a standard vehicle is from the battery via two wires (one for left side and one for right side) that have 15 amp fuses to the headlights, no relays.

Whats wrong with running two new 6mm wire via fuses from the battery to the plugs on the back of the headlights.

Running relays will do nothing and is not needed if you run heavier wiring...using relays is just adding more stuff that is not needed.

AnswerID: 311592

Follow Up By: macbushy - Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 18:04

Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 18:04
Thanks all for the opinions and options mentioned.

Olcoolone, why does the headlight relay have a 40 amp rating? Surely they wouldnt have a 40 amp rating just for the switching side?

Are you saying I can just add a seperate fused cable from the battery, to the (+) terminal on headlight plug (assuming as a replacement for existing (+) cable), and there would be no increase in load on headlight relay (which uses (-) for switching) ?

It just sounds like too easy for the solutiuon... or am I grasping it wrongly?
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FollowupID: 577605

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 18:47

Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 18:47
Olcoolone,
I thought 80series had a relay on the pos side, just like this:
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FollowupID: 577617

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 19:13

Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 19:13
I'll just add that the 40series was the only Landcruiser I know of that didn't have a headlight relay, but it was switched on the pos side.

The 60series onwards were switched on the earth side, and had a relay on the pos side. As per the 80series diagram, the relay prevents the lamps from being energised when the headlamps are turned off. I'm not sure why Toyota did it this way.
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FollowupID: 577628

Reply By: Member - Olcoolone (S.A) - Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 19:40

Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 19:40
I was thinking about newer Toyotas not the 80 series.

Newer Toyota's don't run relays for there lights.

The positive wire to the left and right lights are switched through a relay.

The relay controls power to the head lights.

You need two 30 amp relays, two 30amp fuses, two good high current fuse holders and one 5 amp fuse and fuse holder + wiring and terminals (40amp relays would be better but not needed).

1) Turn the head lights onto high beam and find the single wire in each head light plug (two per side) on each side of the vehicle that has positive power to it (remember the colours).

2) Find the headlight relay and get access to the bottom of it.

3) With the headlights turned on there is positive power to three of the four pins of the relay.

4) The pin that is not positive is negative switching wire from the headlight on switch inside the vehicle (probably small wire size).

5) Turn head lights off and remove the two factory 15 amp headlight fuses, disconnect the positive wire on the battery.

6) Cut the four wires ( one from each headlight plug as remembered from paragraph 1) and leave enough length to join/solder other wires on.

7) Cut the small wire in the factory headlight relay plug (paragraph 4) and join to pin 86 of both new relays.

8) Run one 6mm wires from the battery via a 30amp fuses you have bought and connect to pin 30 of one of the new relays.

9) Run another 6mm wires from the battery via the other 30amp fuses you have bought and connect to pin 30 of the other second new relays.

10) Join one wire from pin 30 on one of the new relays via a 5amp fuse and link it to pin 85 on both of the new relays.

11) Run one 6mm wire from pin 87 on one of the new relays and connect it to the two wires that have been cut at the left hand headlight plugs.

12) Run another 6mm wire from pin 87 of the second new relay and connect it to the two wires that have been cut at the right hand headlight plugs.

13) Reconnect the battery and your done.

If you don't feel confident enough don't do it as you need some electrical experience.

If you need help just ask or I can send you a wiring diagram.

The total current draw on each side would be 23amps giving a total of 46amps at 12 volts.

Place all wires in convoluted split tubing and cable tie secure, keep the convoluted split tubing away from other looms, radiators and break lines as it will rub through them.

Regards Richard







AnswerID: 311678

Follow Up By: Member - Olcoolone (S.A) - Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 19:46

Sunday, Jun 22, 2008 at 19:46
I will add something....

1) Turn the head lights onto high beam and find the single wire in each head light plug (two per side) on each side of the vehicle that has positive power to it (remember the colours).

If using a test light you may get a weak glow on one of the other wires as well in the plug.

Turn the head lights to low bean and the glow should go out and appear on one of the other wires.

You are looking for the wire that is the brightest and is on with low and high beam.
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FollowupID: 577637

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