rounded diff filler plug

Cold chisel

Brian

Get a hammer bigger than a claw hammer, hit the plug square on 3 or 4 times hard don't play with it, try the socket again with and extension handle, if that doesn't work hit it again and use a large chisel.

Cheers Steve.

Couple of other alternatives:
You might be using a 12 pointer socket - these only make contact with the edges of the 6 flats. If so try a six pointer socket to increase the contact on the flats.
Steves hammer blows are good. If these fail, if brave enough, try tightening it very slightly - chances are it has better shoulders on the tightening side of the flats. This may shift it and allow better chance of removal.

Best of luck
Chris

if you have decent flat jawed vice grips I used to lock them on so tight I could barely lock them with 2 hands and the teeth used to embed themself deep then I used to crack it with a good square hammer blow to the back spine. Worked for me several times over the years.

Get something called an "easy out" (I think!). They come in different sizes and basically consist of two items - a drill bit, and a reverse threaded, tapered shank with a hex head on the end.

Drill a hole in the centre of your plug, making sure you miss the threads, and then put the tapered thread in, attach a socket and undo.

This is how I got mine out a while ago.

cut the head off a large bolt and weld it on to the plug. the weld will shrink the plug as well as attaching a new place to grab with a tool

All excellent ideas above , how did you go - did you get it off ???

you wont need easy outs unless you drill the bolt - which i think is 8.8 tensile so you will have some probs OR is the sump bolt brass ???? if its brass a few good hits should shock it into freeing up as they self tighten over time

grinding the head off should hopefully remove any torque against the thread but make sure you have drilled it first so that you can get an easy out on the thread - considering that its in an oily environment it should not be locked/ seized- and if you try to drill after you may just turn the threaded remains into your sump ....

12 point socket is the go - if its to rounded for that -- and its a metric socket head then try use a smaller Imperial size and bash it on

if none of these have worked , then find the clown that done the last oil change and B*%ch slap them - or if it was you , give yourself an uppercut , Its a sump bolt not a head bolt off the QE2. and 150 pounds of torque is not needed

Boc

hmm I see youve already drained the oil out!
obviosly you havnt changed the oil in Toyota diffs much
always make sure you can undo the filler before the drain
I did when I bought my 80 and ended up driving it round to the mechanic n paying an hours labour - could not do it myself

did same on me 60 jacked it up high enough to get under (high) blocks jacks stands make damn sure it stable then heated the nut with oxxy lat cool naturally then heated diff housing around the nut hot while squirting small stream water onto nut head with pipette bottle while still hot belted it with hammer and chisel near cut one third of head off before it gave way got good swing with raised rear would give the weldit idea a go ps put hte old nuts back in front and rear with teflon nipped up snug and still ok today been like it for 2 years good luck

Buy a super wrench from supercheap . They are cheap but the only thing i have found to work on my rounded sump plugs . Similar to the one in the link .

super wrench

I good quality pair of vise grips, grab it as tight as you can and hit the handle with your palm... HARD!! Michael..

Hi Brian,

This may be a little late but I nearly always weld a washer on to the bolt and then another washer and then another washer again. You can keep doing this and all it will do is get plenty of heat directly into the bolt, bolt will expand.

Let it cool and then try to undo it with vice grips, stillson or whatever you have in that line.

If it shears off just go through the process again, and again if needed.

I have used this method time and time again and always to great advantage.

Got the idea from a Lincoln Arc Welders book written in the 1930s and have found that advice invaluable.

Used it on my tractor when the stud was a 1/4 inch below the surface of a housing. Took 2 goes but it came out cleanly and left the thread surfaces bright and clean. Pulled out a bolt this way from my dozer.
Thebolt had been locked in there for about 30 years I would say by the way someones boots had rounded off the head. Give it a go.
Regards,
Bruce.

get a dremel and cut a slot into it and then use an impact driver.

Brian,

I'd go with the welding idea. We've been doing this for many years, mainly because some of the staff don't know what "tight" is!

Use a mild steel 1/2" Whitworth nut, it will be slightly smaller than the filler plug, allowing a reasonable fillet on all 6 sides..

You can then re-use the plug, or keep for a spare. The use of Loctite 567 thread sealer will allow you to replace the filler plug, without needing to over-tighten it.

Notice some of the later model plugs have a deeper nut section on them, meaning you can get a 15/16" AF socket on much easier, with less rrisk of rounding the nut.

Hooroo,
Bob.

hi brian, so how do you get the oil out without removing the nut. Col