80 Series Land Cruiser - Knock noise in diff?
Submitted: Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 01:42
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VED - 444
Hi,
I experience a knocking noise (sounds exactly like a crook cv joint) in my front diff when cornering, but only at initial start off. It happens in forward and reverse. I had the vehicle in a garage to have the cv type joints replaced but upon removal and clean-up they show no signs of wear after 296,000 kmh. A faulty bearing was found to be spinning on the hub and was replaced (hub & bearing) {caused by mixture of different greases over the years}.
Has anyone ever encountered this problem? and if so what was the solution?
Could it be a noise transmitted from the clutch as it happens when the clutch engages with the engine ie doing a U turn from stand still (happens when turning left or right). The noise gets more severe as the revs increase and stops knocking while depressing the clutch to change to 2nd gear and re continues to knock until wheels are positioned for straight travel. No noise or vibration is felt through the gear stick.
It has me stumped. Any relevant suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris.
Reply By: Redback - Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 07:29
Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 07:29
Sounds like a thrust bearing or main gear box bearing.
I can't remember, if you push the clutch in and the noise stops it's the thrust bearing or if you push the clutch in the noise starts.
Same for main bearing, can't remember when the NOISE is
Either way it sounds clutch or gearbox related.
I'm sure someone will tell you.
Baz.
AnswerID:
223302
Follow Up By: VED - 444 - Friday, Feb 23, 2007 at 00:13
Friday, Feb 23, 2007 at 00:13
baz,
Thanks for the reply, its definately not a main bearing in the gearbox but I wont rule out clutch problems. My brothers nissan has a gearbox bearing noise that goes away when the clutch is depressd.
I had a oil leak in the big end which required the fly wheel to be machined to remove impregnated oil. The cluch is a qenuine toyota part . It has always shuddered while reversing up an incline since new. To avoid the shudder I have to slip the cluth which of course stinks horrible and I loose 1/3rd of my peddle.
Cheers,
Chris
FollowupID:
484330
Reply By: barney rubble - Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 07:52
Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 07:52
Gday ved mate im not sure of the 80 series set up so this may be irrelevant to your problem but ive seen this same fault in a pajero where the transfer case was engaged by a solenoid and the solenoid would activate randomly not nescacarily in 4wd either cheers
AnswerID:
223304
Follow Up By: VED - 444 - Friday, Feb 23, 2007 at 00:28
Friday, Feb 23, 2007 at 00:28
Barney,
I think you might be onto something here as I recall the centre diff had difficulty disengaging from 4WD when deactivating the dash mounted switch. I shall
check this out with the experts. Thanks Heaps ... Chris.
FollowupID:
484332
Reply By: Robnicko - Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 09:42
Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 09:42
VED,
Make sure your uni joints are good as
well.
Mine, an auto would do a bit of a clucnk when taking off and seemed a little worse when doing tight left turns. I saw a website in the states on tailshafts and angles for 4wds and the guy there said that when greasing the uni's pump grease in until it passes the seals in order to flush out the old grease. Also with the sliding joint in the tailshaft, I removed them, cleaned and re greased with plenty of grease. After driving the car for a few days there is no more clunking which was very annoying. I also reckon it makes the car much smoother at highway speeds where lifted
suspension kits can cause stange vibrations through the driveline.
Rob
AnswerID:
223336
Follow Up By: BenSpoon - Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 14:45
Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 14:45
I had the same on
mine- A clicking when at hard lock and accellerating. One day it spat a uni joint so I replaced it and reinstalled- the clicking is completely gone now.
Mine was the front shaft. Try greasing it, and if grease doesnt come out of all the uni joint rubbers you may have to replace... Theres some fun with a press and needle roller bearings.
FollowupID:
484243
Follow Up By: VED - 444 - Friday, Feb 23, 2007 at 00:37
Friday, Feb 23, 2007 at 00:37
Rob and Ben,
Unis and yokes are fine and tight and I over grease them every 5,000 km, no clicking and clunking. I think I might have the answer as I recall seeing the constant 4wd light lit on the dash for some time after deactivating it. It concerned me at the time to the point where I even backed up to see if that would help it disengage, it could have strained the workings as I had simultainiously disengaged it when coming of loose sand onto some fast dirt. Thanks for your replys anyway.
Cheers
Chris
FollowupID:
484334
Follow Up By: Robnicko - Friday, Feb 23, 2007 at 09:16
Friday, Feb 23, 2007 at 09:16
Ben,
My front uni self destructed on the way
home one night as i exited a roundabout. I thought it was a headgasket as the car shuddered under load.
When I managed to get the front shaft out (it had never been off) the retaining circlip was gouged like a ripped coke can. A friend who's a mechanic changed it for me just using a brass hammer and small faced hammer. It was amasing watching him do it using 2 blocks of wood and his hands. No press needed.
Rob
PS. Do you know why are the front uni's almost twice the price from toyota. Front $86 rear $50?
FollowupID:
484358
Reply By: steve&anja - Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 10:15
Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 10:15
My suggestion is the CV is faulty and needs replaceing as I had identicle problem and was fixed when it was replaced
AnswerID:
223344
Follow Up By: VED - 444 - Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 23:55
Thursday, Feb 22, 2007 at 23:55
Steve. I had a cousin in a wheel alignment / front end garage workshop have a look at it. He reckons that there is no physical wear on the cv so he cleaned it up and put it back. he also found a front bearing that had almost seazed and had spun on the axle hub thingy - $1,600 later the noise is still there. I think its clutch related and going by the other posts will follow their suggestions, maybe the uni joints in the drive train first. Thanks all the same
regards Chris.
FollowupID:
484328