2003 GU TD4.2 - looking for more Grunt

Roachie is at the front counter with a customer - he'll be here shortly :-0)

Have a look here also. You'll find it a lot more specific to your vehicle and the amount of knowledge is amazing.

www.patrol4x4.com/forum/

Cheers. Mick

Whats your budget?

First place to call is Andy at DieselTech in Lillydale.. .bit of a journey, but worth it.

second would be Aaron at ATOC (check club maggo).. Bit of a journey but worth it.

Both will cost you round $1400-1600 for exhaust, pump mods, and a tune. AAron gives a good club discount :)

You can spend $5500 and get a ball bearing turbo, new manifold, the works from OnTrack and you can get around 180kw at the wheels.. Hes done quite a few now...

I already had the 3in Exhaust and Dump which did make a difference though we are always looking for more. I had mine tuned today at Queanbeyan Diesel Services. What they found was boost was already between 9.5 and 10 PSi though timing was out, has the mechanic put it quite retarded in timing.....After getting the timing right and a test drive it now holds at least 10km better on hills, so I'm pretty happy with that.
The easiest mod is the 3in Mandrel Bent Exhaust with 3in Dump pipe and a good tune. You will be surprised at the difference. If you want more then your possibly looking at putting in a Boost Control Vv and getting the boost up to 12psi though this can present other problems such as higher EGT and can decrease the life of the engine. Or you can get a Turbo upgrade which will make it even better.....Good luck....

Truckster has provided good local info on guys down your way, you could also try MTQ (outlets in a lot of major cities so I imagine one down your way). The modification these guys do will change where max torque and power is on song till a bit later in the rev range but it is still a good outcome in my opinion but you may want different to me??

Starting with your exhaust mod is a good idea as any other mods will include the exhaust swap anyway so go for this and see if that is enough for you.

Happy motoring.
Trevor.

HI PGK, am a yota driver, with a chip and 3 inch exhaust on my 4.2 so nothing will compare.... AAnyway have a mate who has a GU 4.2TD 2001, has had all sorts done the the vehicle generally, but very impressed with the MTQ system. A mate with the 4500 80 series petrol, drove the ute and was impressed with the power. Id say spend the money and you will be happy.. MTQ are in Dandenong, Hammond Road from memeory

Ray

The other blokes have already covered off on most of what I would have said with a couple of exceptions:

1). You asked what the dump pipe is........ It is the short, 90 degree, steel pipe that immediately exits the gases from the turbo into the exhaust system. Some places will make you up a new exhaust system that bolts onto the existing dump pipe. Waste of time and money! The dump pipe of the 4.2 Nissan motor is VERY restrictive and chokes the gases. That's why you need the whole system, including a free-flowing straight through exhaust and no need for the catalytic converter.

2). I would suggest you fit a EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge. If you get the new exhaust system, there should be a threaded lug in the new dump pipe that you can screw the probe (aka: thermocouple) into. This will provide you with valuable info about if you might be trying to extract too much from your donk. Treat 520oC as a "red line". You'll be surprised how changing down a gear (say when climbing a steep hill), will make the EGT drop, even though the engine is revving a bit more. You can choose from an anologue type meter, or (my preference) the digital readout one from Ian at Thermoguard (he's a sponsor/advertiser on this forum).

3). You mentioned about the intake side of the motor too. Glad you did as this is one area that nobody seems to have really concentrated on or (IMHO) "cracked", as far as I'm concerned. The Nissan air intake system leaves a LOT to be desired. The filter is too small (compare it to even the old 2.7 Prado!!!) and will not/cannot flow enough clean air through in the volumes required for this size motor. My new beast (it is a GU with a Chev 6.5 V8) has a huge Donaldson cleaner. Unfortunately for most owners, it takes up the whole area where most blokes like to mount their 2nd battery. I am lucky that with the dual cab conversion I can have my 2nd battery in the box on the back; which is where 90% of the gear that it runs lives anyway. At the very least you need to fit a snorkel so you get a bit of "ram" effect at speeds over 80k/h to assist force some air into the system. Some people also use free-flowing filters (eg: UniFilter/Finer Filter, K&N etc). I used to use a Unifilter and still believe they are probably okay for bitumen running, but they apparently let more dust particles through than the good old paper element type.

4). If you get the boost tweaked (or a Denco kit fitted like I did on my old 4.2), I would also suggest fitting a boost gauge. Mine used to push up to 15psi maximum boost, but I was always conscious of this and had the gauge there to let me know what I was pumping......I do not believe 15psi should be sustained for long periods of time. Read the boost gauge in conjunction with the EGT gauge and water temp gauge and you'll be sweet.

Hope this helps a bit....good luck and have fun; the 4.2 is a heavy old reliable donk.

if your looking for low down power fit a super charger get rid of the turbo fit extractors 3 inch pipe and you will have more tourge in the lower revs, i have one fitted and at idle is putting out 8psi which a turbo doesnt do untill about 1800 revs grat for towing and the sloww drives through rough terrain they run their own oil are servicable and doent have the heat impact turbos do they pull nearly as hard as a chev diesal conversion only cheaper col