Cooling Off - Purchases Made!
Submitted: Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 16:25
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Beast of Bodmin
Well, finally bit the bullet and spent the hard earned folding stuff!
New radiator for the 80 series (4.5 auto) $350 from Repco - haggled for trade discount. It's manufacturered by ADR and carries a 2yr warranty. ADRAD, NatRad wanted best part of $550 with warranties also. Anybody no of this manufacturer?
It's not gor the plastic header tanks of the Toyota one but is all metal.
Was going to renew the viscous hub. $160 for a Davies Craig unit from Autopro.
Mine works ok as regarding cutting in, but l cannot assess whether it locks up 100%. So l decided to buy the Toyota silicone oil and renew/top-up that! 2 tubes = $22. If that doesn't work will renew.
Just got to find the fill plug on the hub. Guess that might be easier once the rad is out.
So at the w/end l will have a go at pulling it all down. Any advice on good quality rad flush. I think l'll flush the system as it is before l put the new rad in. Also will make a few voltage tests of the coolant too.
Replacement coolant will be Toyota - it's good stuff.
Cannot help but praise Lane Toyota at Clayton. Always get the parts l request at the time they say. Thanks to them too.
Cheers
BoB
Reply By: Middle Jeff - Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 19:19
Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 19:19
Hi Bob
Not all viscous hubs have a fill plug, you just open it up and pour the oil in until it is full then scew it back together again.
Have fun
Craig
AnswerID:
214768
Reply By: FZJ 80 - Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 19:42
Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 19:42
BoB,
Out of interest, Did you price a genuine radiator?
Mine is original, 1994 and 294000km, like to go genuine again with a result like this.
Regards
Greg
AnswerID:
214775
Follow Up By: Beast of Bodmin - Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 22:17
Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 22:17
G'Day,
Yep,
Rad $850+gst
Viscous Hub $450+gst
Both are too silly to even contemplate!
Breakers 2nd hand friend of a friend - Rad $350 no warranty.
It didnt take me long to choose the 2yr warranty Repco part.
Cheers
BoB
FollowupID:
475083
Reply By: Outnabout David (SA) - Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 23:00
Thursday, Jan 11, 2007 at 23:00
I have always gone genuine but just recently put the same radiator in
mine.
There was nothing wrong with the old one just figured would be preventive maintenance. So I decides if it craps itself outside of warranty then I will just have my original cleaned and repaired.
There probably isn't a filler plug on the viscous hub. You just need to take the six or so bolts out and pour the oil in. Make sure it is all clean though before you pull it apart and make sure you don't pinch the oring putting it together.
Check for any leakage before cleaning you may not need two bottles if it is not leaking. If you put to much in the fan will just be locked up more often and the fan noise might drive you nuts.
Easy enough job to do just got to remove the battery boxes, top radiator support panel. Just take out the two air cond condensor bolts to allow access to the top rad bolts. When you put it all back together think about the position of your hose clamps and how easy the will be to get off in the bush.
Mine were in a position that you would need to have special
tools on hand to get too.
The only down side to this radiator is that it rtakes longer to cool down than plastic so be careful leaning over the bonnet.
AnswerID:
214819
Follow Up By: Beast of Bodmin - Friday, Jan 12, 2007 at 09:36
Friday, Jan 12, 2007 at 09:36
Hi Outnabout David,
Thanks for the tips. I've never had the viscous apart although i did have the rad out when l renewed the cyl head (for a flush). I used the same technique you mention above.
If the viscous may not need 2 bottles (18ml each), and it shouldn't be full, how do you set the level?
Cheers
BoB
FollowupID:
475141
Follow Up By: Outnabout David (SA) - Friday, Jan 12, 2007 at 18:45
Friday, Jan 12, 2007 at 18:45
By feel really.
Two bottles won't hurt but if there is no sign of leakage and there is some resistance then no need to bother. My diesel has 240K but I didn't put any in although I have the tubes if needed.
FollowupID:
475258
Reply By: Robnicko - Friday, Jan 12, 2007 at 09:06
Friday, Jan 12, 2007 at 09:06
BoB,
I also agree with the genuine coolant being good stuff! I have always used the concentrate 4L pack when replacing the coolant in my 1995 4.5 80 and have never had a problem. I do not like the premixed stuff, even genuine pre mixed.
Some say it's overkill but I replace
mine every 12months and have never had any issues. As for the radiator my Dad had to replace his (top tank cracked) and he had it done by Mr radiator who use plastic tanks as opposed to steel for the same reason that Outnabout David has said.
What oil do you use in the engine? I use Penrite HPR30 since new and after 270000kms it doesnt use a drop. Also what do you use in the transfer case please?
Thanks,
Rob
AnswerID:
214875
Follow Up By: Beast of Bodmin - Friday, Jan 12, 2007 at 09:34
Friday, Jan 12, 2007 at 09:34
Hi Robnicko,
My truck is one of the first 4500 80's going by the VIN. It is Oct92.
With 345,000km on the clock, l am using a 20w50 engine oil. Castrol GTX2 ffrom memory.
Transfer case oils is again Castrol. Cannot recall the exact viscosity but 85W90 rings a bell.
I've never used Penrite. It was never popular in the UK and thus l generally stick with Castrol now and previously
Mobil.
Mine doesn't use a drop either. Although about 9mth ago l replaced the valve guide seals as part of a cyl head o/haul. It was using oil before that but it was obvious the guide seals were at fault.
Oil pressure remains close to high normally and drops to 2/3 or 3/4 when brought down to idle.
Cheers
BoB
FollowupID:
475139