clutch shudder

oh yeh the shudder stays all the time even when it is warn or cold.

My 100 Series turbo disel used to do it all the time. All feedback from this forum indicated that they all do it. Nobody seemed to have a cure for it.

I no longer have the 100 series.

Bilbo

lost,
My HJ 75 shudders when i do not give it enough revs.
Cheers,
Bros.

>

I think its the mechanics and Toyota that need to re-set 'their stroke' to the zero mark as it seems to be set on a 100 at the moment making comments like that.

My 75 series Troopy has a slight shudder/studder when cold or sitting idle for a few days, however disappears on warm and if driven every day then disappears all together.

Hells Bells Lost, you are giving the pink nissan mafia a leg up the 'sledging' ladder with this one.

(LOL)

Yep,
my 100 shudders, sometimes if I am not quite on the job its can be real bad. Seems to be almost non existant when the cluth is hot, after lots of work. I cannot see how the injection pump stroke can make any difference, sounds like crap to me. I have heard others on this forum say that after replacing, with non genuine, the problem was gone. I will be doing mine soon.

Toytruck.

Here is another angle to consider as well LOST.

I have had a Datsun B-Bird Station Wagon since new (1981 series I purchased in Apr 82)

From day one that 'mother of all mothers' had a clutch shudder plus gear box front end oil leak amongst a whole host of other things that continually 'happened'.

Only 12/12 warranty in those days so I was flying solo in the fix-it-up game almost instantly.

Anyway 7 clutch plate kits later at 165,000kms and an original engine recondition I decided to have the engine balanced as well.

So, the people doing the re-con asked me to supply the new clutch kit and flywheel to be mounted to the motor prior to the 'balancing' as that is what you do apparently to get a properly balanced drive line. ( Told this and have no idea if it is correct or not)

So I drop it off and later get a phone call informing me that the Flywheel has 'hard spots' and needs machining (?????????????) OK! go ahead.

When I pick it all up I question the chit out of them about the 'hard spots and machining'.

Apparently flywheels develop these hard spots for various reasons and once they get them, then the noticeable effect is the 'shudder' you are complaining about.

Since then I have changed a number of clutches on different vehicles and ALWAYS get the flywheel 'machined' off. Never had a problem since with shudder in the clutch after a clutch change.

The other thing that the re-con guys explained to me was that it doesn't take much to cause the said 'hard spots'

Ah! well its something else for you to ponder on for the day, if nothing else.

I adjusted my clutch pedal height to within specs , its in the manual .

hi,
i had that annoying clutch shudder in my hzj105 from new replaced under warrenty by toyota 3 days later back shuddering. 30,000 km later when warrenty expired dropped the box out on the shed floor took the flywheel off and got it machined replaced clutch kit with a safari tuff clutch unit stuffed it all back togeather wollar no shudder works great.the only thing i had to adjust was the peddle height.

My Navara 3.0TD twin cab did it too, when fully loaded iwth a camper trailer,, noticed it about 2500 km mark on trip ,,
Since I've been home and taken all the weithg away ,, its gone ????

Can that be normal ?

Yep, I got the story about the injector stroke timing as well. I reluctantly let them adjust it, and first time, the thing ran like a dog and still shuddered. When I took it back, they said the mechanic stuffed up the settings and did it again. Buugger me, this time, for the first few weeks, I could not get it to shudder at all. Then, a few weeks later, shudder came back and the thing just got slower and slower, thirstier and blew heaps of smoke. I asked them to put things back to factory specs (checked by pump specialist) now it still blows a bit of smoke, doesn't go as well as it used to, and used a bit more fuel. Still shudders, but mainly noticed when cold. One other thing it does it that it surges on a medium throttle on light hills at about 1600rpm. Back off a bit or plant it, and the surging stops. When I say surging, sort of a roo hop at speed (50kph).

The story I got was the pump was preset for Japan (altitude??) and that the adjustment had been found to fix some. Didn't fix mine. I personally wouldn't let them touch the pump, but then again, I have since lost trust in the local dealer (didn't find a broken rear shock in a major service - that's another story though.)

It's something that I believe can be fixed with certain HD clutch types and machining and balancing etc, but I havn't bothered yet; I sort of learned to live with it.

Andrew

Its possible that the piston in the damper assembly is jammed. (the small unit directly under the clutch master cylinder or above it if clutch booster fitted.
Its purpose is to damp out cyclic vibrations at the flywheel/clutch at low revs. when the clutch is being engaged. The problem would be exacerbated if high spots exist on the flywheel. Even slight flywheel runout will cause the problem, the runout tolerence specification is very low.
kesh