Sunday, Apr 09, 2006 at 08:34
Steel head, must have got pretty hot.
One other thing, if the vehicle has AC tell him to make sure he does the bolt up on the twin heater pipes that run alongside the RHS of the head BEFORE putting on the AC bracket and tensioning the alternator and AC belts. Major bleep er doing it the other way.
Also, the starter motor is best removed (to lock flywheel) with about 800mm of 3/8" drive extensions and a uni-joint as the top bolt is about 80mm long with a very fine pitch thread. A ringy will only allow a quarter turn which makes for a very boring and time consuming task.
A 3 or 4 foot long cheater bar is a worthwhile addition as the head torque settings require an intial torque wrench up to a specified amount, then two further tightens of 90 degrees. This makes for a far smoother, easier and more accurate job. I also paint mark the head bolts from 1 to 18 so the tightening sequence is much easier instead of constantly refering back to the book.
The fan shroud is best removed with the fan at the same time, as the radiator has a fixed crossover pipe which gets in the way if you try and take it out holus bolus.
Empty 45-70 brass is a PERFECT interference fit on the injectors to keep them clean and dust free. 45LC and 45 ACP would do the job too. ;-)
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