Sunday, Jan 08, 2006 at 16:02
Troy,
That's some mix!
I've found Canola oil is generally much more expensive than the $1 litre I bought. It was a super special on some dumped EU product - soybean/vegetable oil. Even it's normal price of $1.50 litre in 2 litre bottles or 4l tins is much cheaper than price of other options in the
supermarket. Just a matter of looking around and being prepared to buy up a quantity when you see it at the right price.
I've been interested in getting a local source of new oil, not dumped imported stuff, and have found a farmer that crushes, filters and degums his own and will sell it for $1 litre. The
farm is around 250km from me, so there are other costs involved in getting it.
I'd understood adding ULP, or PULP, was okay to diesel in small quantities only and really only to stop it gelling - Not really a problem in an Oz summer or NT anytime. There's no reason to add PULP to increase the octane/cetane/bangability rating of the mix, you will not notice the difference in power even using SVO - the only issues with SVO, new or used and filtered, are combustion problems - possibly leaving unburnt residue in the combustion chambers that will coke up injectors and rings. This is a viscosity issue, not an energy rating issue.
Preheating the oil with a heat exchange device just prior to the pump is one way around this as it helps to reduce the viscosity and increase the burn. There are many many resources on the net, once you get to right place to start, that gives proper explanation of this. Preheating prior to the filter can overheat the filter paper and disintegrate it - something to watch for in the NT if you add a heater.
I'm only a newbie with this - the
sydney bio site is a good place to start and there are links there to all the other reputable sites.
Tim
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