Power to fridge

Submitted: Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 22:21
ThreadID: 29123 Views:2468 Replies:9 FollowUps:21
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Hi guys and gals , about to wire the not so tuf 100 tomorrow for its 90l weaco

Now whats your thoughts on wire , I know 8 mm is the go , but what about the earth wire . Run it with the power wire all the way back to the battery , or just earth it in the rear ?

Thanks for your thoughts in advance
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Reply By: Member - Andy Q (VIC) - Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 23:31

Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 23:31
G'day Rock Crawler, use 6mm wire and earth it all locally ie closer to the fridge.
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Follow Up By: Member - Andy Q (VIC) - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 19:51

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 19:51
G'day again, this question did worry me a bit, if you had an arb fridge I would have said run the earth back to the battery and on prolonged thought this would be better for all. I can see you've had plenty of advice to that effect so you're in good hands.
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Reply By: 4145derek - Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 23:40

Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 23:40
Hi there,

Derek here...

I agree, I use 6mm wire for fridge only applications but if you plan on running an inverter in the rear then best to run a 8mm2 100amp positive to the rear and pick up a good clean earth around the tail light area.

I would also reccomend a auto reset breaker at the front and a buss bar or heavy duty fuse block at the rear before spliting to the fridge and inverter.

Regards Derek.

Merry Christmas to all and Happy Holidays.
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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 23:41

Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 23:41
Ran mine back to battery
if ya going to run a power wire most of the length, may as well run the earth too...
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Follow Up By: Member JD- Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 23:49

Friday, Dec 23, 2005 at 23:49
Hey Truckster,
I've got a 80 lt waeco in the back of my truck,had it for some time now ,but lately been thinking of the merits of a relay just before it hooks up to the fridge.what do you think?I mean they they pump the power on your driving lights????maybe just as handy to get full power to the back of the truck...I don't know???JD
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 00:04

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 00:04
Im not an electrical gurus buttox sweat.. ya askin the wrong person there!
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Follow Up By: Member JD- Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 00:25

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 00:25
Alright so you dont now to much about electrical,buttus sweat! my mistake.
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Follow Up By: Mad Dog (Australia) - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:54

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:54
Forget the relay, don't need it unless you want to turn the fridge off and on from the dash.
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 09:17

Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 09:17
You wont need a relay for power reasons, only for switching as Mad Dog correctly comments, what were you thinking to use the relay for? Contrary to T-Mans sweat Iam said to know a little bit about electricity and wires and cars.
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Follow Up By: Member JD- Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 09:31

Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 09:31
Hi Bonz,
I was trying to think outside of the square,l just thought it could assist in delivering full power back to the fridge without power drop,like they do for spoties,and help the fridge run more efectively.My understanding of a relay,it makes sure 12 V from Batt is full 12V to cosumer..with more grunt.and l thought the above mention person would know but it appears he doesn't.Anyway l have been put onto a good site and have been reading all do's and don'ts.Merry Xmas Bonz to you and yours.
JD
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 11:43

Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 11:43
OK mate in that case forget about it, the big wires to the back will do that. The reason they use them for spotties etc is so the powr goes straight from the battery (at the front of the car) to the lights (also at the front of the car) rather than up theru the cabin, thru the switch and back to the lights in whatever piddly wires the accountants say that the car maker can use.

So in your case with decent wires run to the back of the car and fuses or breakers at the start to protect from pinching/inadvertant earthing you'll be sweet. 46 eh? I remember that like it.....next Feb!

Bonz
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Reply By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 00:29

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 00:29
Eric, i would prefer to take it right back to the battery as you never know if there may ba dodgy connection to the earth one end or the other.

Glad you preface the question with the "not so tuf 100". ;-) A 90 litre should feed you and Dean a couple of days mate. Nearly do a double crossing of the Simpson with it. Have a great Christmas for you all, Giota and kids too.
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Follow Up By: Rock Crawler - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 00:35

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 00:35
My view was that the body would have been a much better earth and saves on extra wires , but i was very unsure . Also it would have been one extra wire i didn't have to run , to allow room for more wires .

Thanks for the greetings , the same goes to you and your family , I will even extend them to Nick R , even if he did defer to the other side lol
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Follow Up By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:36

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:36
With my fridge it said to run wires back to the battery - both I had assumed.

Nick seems pretty happy to be on the light side now, but he is a big boy and can respond for himself. I am sure he will get some scratches on it over the next few weeks. Have to teach him how to set up a photobucket account and show off.

Have a good'n mate, Glenn is talking late February for the country trip I think. Hope the cows will have eaten out the campsite pretty well by then. I will be in the city most of March though as a games volunteer. Catchya..
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Follow Up By: Rock Crawler - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:53

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:53
I am actually going to be part of the cast in the opening ceremony, So I guess ill see you there lol
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Follow Up By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 10:12

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 10:12
I thought they would have the good looking ones there Eric. Is the Caddie going to be in it too? I will be at the Village until the 28th but have tickets for the opening.
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Reply By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 07:35

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 07:35
I would run the earth back to the battery. After all it is no harder to run a twin than a single and after all you are trying to connect the fridge to the negative of the battery not the body of the car. Read the instructions with the fridge for the correct size cable. I went one size bigger as it can do no harm as you may also run other gear off the same cable. I changed the cigarette lighter connector for a different style to be sure it doesn't fall out on rough roads. Didn't want to risk warm beer at beeroclock.
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Reply By: Alloy c/t - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 07:42

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 07:42
Best practice as Waeco recomends is twin core 8mm sq pos and neg to battery ,the last thing you want is hot beer because of a coulpe of $ "saved " on to thin wire causing volt drop .
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Reply By: Peter 2 - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:51

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:51
The negative lead should never be connected to the battery terminal but rather the body end of the negative battery lead.
I used to install HF radios in all sorts of vehicles, trucks, buses, 4wd's and cars.
The reason is that if (it does happen I've seen the results) the battery connection is crook/broken the huge current required by the starter motor will take the path of least resistance, through the frig, HF or whatever. Believe me the HF, frig or whatever will NEVER work again.
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Follow Up By: Rock Crawler - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:56

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 08:56
so anywhere near the rear of the car is fine ? someone suggested tail light end ?
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Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 09:08

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 09:08
For peace of mind I would run both a positive and negative to the rear. The bigger cable the better as you will end up wanting to run more than the frig.
Positive fused at the battery end with a household type cartridge fuse as used with an HF.
Negative connected to the negative battery cable where it is connected to the body. Quite often this is a smaller cable as the main negative is connected to the engine.
At the rear fit a good quality fusebox (boating places have really good ones with screw connections, stainless connectors etc, around $45 -$50) and run your frig and other accessory wiring from there.
I use a Blue Sea marine fusebox (cat no 33580 at Whitworths) which has a negative rail as well, very good quality and uses the old glass type fuses.
Spade fuses eventually go high resistance due to corrosion of the alloy spades which leads to meltdown.
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 09:24

Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 09:24
Eric, fuse the pos lead at the battery with a automotive Circuit breaker or similar rather than a fuse is what I did and I think its better than a fuse, that said, if you do use a fuse use a HRC one not a "wire" one.
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Follow Up By: Mad Dog (Australia) - Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 10:52

Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 10:52
Peter 2, simpliest way to protect the equipment from failure as you describe is to fuse both neg and pos lines. Some manufactures of HF radios do this with their factory leads....Icom, yaesu
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 13:06

Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 13:06
Wel I can't for the life of me work out WHY one would fuse a negative cable, you would have to drop the other end across a live wire and the live wire would be fused so it would be a race to see which oine blew first and then the loser would have its fuse element deteriorated so it wouldnt be rated to its full rating nor be reliable. It seems to me that someone of greater knowledge than me with maybe three hands has come up with somthing that brings in more income........
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Follow Up By: Mad Dog (Australia) - Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 21:13

Sunday, Dec 25, 2005 at 21:13
>Wel I can't for the life of me work out WHY one would fuse a negative cable

To protect the HF radio being the return path for the starter current if the main neg line should become high resistance or completly open in which case without a neg fuse the radio could release smoke.
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Monday, Dec 26, 2005 at 08:19

Monday, Dec 26, 2005 at 08:19
Yes Ray I mused about that, the current has to get into the line to the HF somehow. Return path is a misnomer, the current goes from pos to neg so as soon as it started down the pos cable to the HF the pos fuse would blow hence saving the HF from Fryland and ensuring a good thing.

Now all that said...I have seen wiring fried in a car and the thing is the WHOLE wiring loom was fried, everything, but that was caused by one wire going to ground and overloading and the subsequent heat frying in the lot.

I am still puzzled about a neg fuse might go and draw a few wiring circuits see if I can sort myself out.
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Follow Up By: Mad Dog (Australia) - Monday, Dec 26, 2005 at 13:10

Monday, Dec 26, 2005 at 13:10
Well that's the theory I was taught Geoff back in the late 70's while studying radio\electronics and mobile radio installations which was long before the web but doing a google confirms that it's still considered good pratice. I've never had burnt wiring but Peter 2 above confirms the results aren't pretty when the starter get its earth through your expensive equipment....well back to the cricket and another coldie
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Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Monday, Dec 26, 2005 at 13:38

Monday, Dec 26, 2005 at 13:38
I never bothered fusing the neg lead as it was just introducing another connection point that with time, vibration and corrosion was liable to degrade.
Another thought was that if the main neg lead degraded to the point where the vehicle wouldn't start then it would lead to it being fixed whereas a fuse blown would just be replaced with possible a bigger one or other foreign object which may carry the required current and lead to equipment damage anyway.
Most of the radio installs I did were on commercial type vehicles which were subject to user abuse to put it mildly.
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 09:02

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 09:02
Connecting the neg to the body at the rear is fine, and actually provides a path of least resistance provided (#1) you strip off the paint, smear some vaseline to stop it rusting and use a shiny bolt and (#2) have an excellent earth lead between the battery and body.

The reason the fridge people suggest to go back to the battery is because people easily stuff up an earth connection to painted surfaces in the vehicle. I solder a 30amp spade fuse in line at the battery end for short circuit protection. I have found that fuse holders can corrode up under the bonnet, and a soldered fuse has the least resistance.
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Reply By: Crackles - Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 18:10

Saturday, Dec 24, 2005 at 18:10
RC . Try a search. This topic is covered every week & the responses are all pretty much the same ;-) Heres my last response from 3 pages back.
I suggest running twin double insulated 6mm cable (or bigger) from the auxillary battery through a waterproof 30 amp spade fuse holder connected directly to the terminal. Keep the wiring as short as possible to minimise voltage drop. Ideally this could connect into a heavy duty power outlet then be looped out & run to a 2nd plug for the lights. (4mm would be ok for lights)(clipsal 32 volt plugs are excellent). Avoid cigarette lighter type plugs as they vibrate out & often melt.
Running the earth wire from the battery eliminates poor connections through the body work particually over time when things start to rust.
The fuse at the battery should be no larger than what your load usage requires enuring that if the positive wire was to rub through onto the body it will blow & not set fire to the wiring. A 20 amp fuse should carry the load fine.

On my own 4by I've taken it one step further by running 16mm twin cable from the battery in through the cab then out to the rear bumper into an Anderson plug. This is either an external power point for assesories or power into the caravan. I've then tee'd off the main cable at various points for power to the CB's, HF, fridge, light plugs, compressor, GPS, shower & diff locks. Individual spade fusing of the appropiate size is fitted where I tee off. This system minimises voltage drop & mutliple runs of wire along the car.
Cheers Craig.........
AnswerID: 145450

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