Carrying the Highlift on a GU.

Hey Paul,

I would like the ARB/Kaymar option, it is the best but it is part of a long list.

My ARB Bullbar has points for use with the highlift and I once got caught with my recovery gear on the trailer. I was on a day trip and just over 120km from the trailer so I now want all my recovery gear on the car.

I am thinking of lying the jack down across the rear. Tow bar can take the weight with brackets either side to keep it in place. Don't know how it will work yet. But it should be low enough to allow the doors to open.

I'll let you know if it works.

Duncs

Gooto agree with you Paul.. I have an 05 GU and it's only a month old and already I get accaisinal squeeks from the rear door (don't go there..) I think the Kaymar/ARB rear bar with tyre carrier is th ebest way to go.. I wouldn't even think of adding a HLJ to the rear door hinges.. although it's easy for me as I use a roof rack..
I guess this opens another can off worms.. why have a trailer if you dont have a RR.. surely a loaded RR will have less detrimental effect than a loaded trailer... if you want to cut back on how much stuff you rtake , I would go roof rack and forget trailer.. but I guess each to their own.. everyone needs to find a balance for their needs, I guess I'm lucky and only travel with two of us and two medium dogs. so no need for trailer but RR is great for fishing rods, tents and tool box..
My only suggestion Re HLJ would be to try a fitting behind Bullbar.. Have seen it done on some cars but not sure if I recall seeinga GU with one..
Merry Christmas

Okay, there are a couple of different issues here to be considered......

Firstly, the highlift jack: I have a Opp Lock rear bar with a slot either side for the HL Jack, so no worries. I also have a ARB bullbar and could use the HLJack on it too. However, most stock 4bys aren't equipped to take advantage of a HLJack......so you need to ask yourself the obvious question...."Do I really need to carry it?"

Secondly, the Opp Lock rear bar means that I get all that horrible weight off the back door which is gr8 indeed. It also means I can mount the HLJack onto the spare wheel swing arm with no ill-effects; so this is where I carry mine.

Thirdly, even after I fitted the new rear bar and had no excess weight on the back door, the bloody interior light and the red idiot light would come on at any time it felt like doing so. It struck me that there is no earthly reason why that big cargo door even needs to have a switch for the warning/interior light/s. After all, you can't open the big door unless the smaller door is opened first (and it has it's own switch anyway). So, I decided to take the interior trim off the big door and simply unplugged the single cable at a junction, before the single wire continued down into the bowels of the door....(the switch is somehow "hidden" away down in the bottom latch area). I also then decided that even the small cargo door didn't really need to have the switch operative, so i did the same on that door too.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Roachie

Here, here Squizzy, that's how I solved my problem with the high lift, the best way to carry a high lift jack take it apart. The time it would take you to unbolt it off the rear wheel it will take the same time to assemble...

Problem solved!

Merry Christ-mass.

Babs.

I liked this idea and went out this arvo to give it a go.

It works! You beauty, however, there is still aproblem. WHen I have the storage system in it works great. Nice spot just behind the mid row seats easy to secure and easy to get in and out. But I don't leave the storage system in all the time.

I am not keen on having the jack running around in the cabin when I can't secure it. So for my next trip, January, when I will have one of the third row seats in, this won't work.

Still looking at hanging it off the towbar. SPoke to my welder friend today and he reckons it could work.

Duncs