Accurate way of setting torsion bars.
Submitted: Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 02:29
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Dan
This weekend im going to have a go at adjusting my torsion bars on my rodeo.
I'm after some tips on the best way to get them even. At the moment the front right side of my car sits lower than the other. I want to even them up and jack it up a little.
One way i was thinking, is to wind both of them up as far as possible, then work backwards by easing off the tension on each, cranking them down both the same amount.
Is this safe?
Or is there a better way?
Thanks
Dan
Reply By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 04:13
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 04:13
Dont forget by playing with torsion bar hieght you also change your camber wheel alighnment settings. By winding them up you effect negative camber which leads to poor road holding and understeer. Torsion bars are a Pr*&ck of an idea and after the spectacular faulure of the Valiant front
suspension (if you got 10,000k out of the front tyres you were ahead) I cant believe they are still used. The last vehicle i drove with them was a 1978 Nissan van
AnswerID:
143951
Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 11:32
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 11:32
1978 van!! Davoe, sounds like you need to drive my car on the highway so you can catch up a little! LMAO!!
Don't worry mate, I'll never try to convert you, I know it's a lost cause!!
And yes, torsion bars are a PITA off road, but they don't slow as down much, just means we get wheels off the ground more often than solid axel beasts, nothing a little momentum normally won't cure. But on road, they are far superior and seeings as that's realistically where our vehicle sits most of the time (even a 4by trip contains hours of highway driving each way) I accept it's downfalls...
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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 11:50
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 11:50
Maybe i had a bad experience with the valiant spending a fortune on the front end including on a busted torsion bar and tyres every 6 months. I had far less drama with the old camper. An advantage with torsion bars is if you blow a shocker (I blew 4 in total with torsion bar fron ends........ and then i changed from overpriced crap peders to Monroe) Its no biggie as torsion bars dont bounce like coils
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Reply By: Member - Crazie (VIC) - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 08:36
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 08:36
Hi Dan
make sure the wheels are offf the ground when doing it and I would wind then up a little and then make small adjustments up, not wind them right up and then back off. It is fiddley but just take your time, you will have to lift the 4wd up and down a bit.
Ads
AnswerID:
143961
Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 09:02
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 09:02
Each bar may have settled or lost some spring tension differently, so trying to work from a common mark such as fully wound may not work.
If you want to lift the right side, try say 2 turns, bounce the car a couple of times and see where it settles.
It is a trial and error job.
At least where they are now you have some idea of the ide height on each side, and the relationship one ot the other. You will loose that starting from fully wound :-)
In regard to torsion bars, I like them.
After all a coil spring is just a torsion bar wound helically, but you can only adjust a coil by replacing them!
I have 2 cars with torsion bars, the front of the pajero and the rear of the beetle.
The beetle has 40 splines one end and 42 the other, you have to count splines which is even more fun, each spline being 9 or 8.6 degrees.
The front of the pajero is like yours, bolt adjustment at one end, a lot easier.
Wish the pajero had the 9" of
suspension travel the beetle has though, and a little bit if a play on the rear fo the beetle adjusting stops and I can get 12".
AnswerID:
143965
Reply By: Leroy - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 09:21
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 09:21
Dan,
It's trial and error with adjusting them. I found with my Rodeo I would adjust them bounce the front end up and down 1/2 doz times and adjust again until I got both sides approx level. Also use a tape to measure the height from the guard to the hub and when you're within 10mm then that's close enough. Go for a drive and then remeasure and adjust the torsion bars again if need be. But don't get too greedy and lift the front too high as you will end up with no downward wheel travel!!
Leroy
AnswerID:
143971
Reply By: 120scruiser - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 10:37
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 10:37
We adjust the bars on our wheel alignment ramps that way we can go straight
onto the aligner with it.
I would suggest you adjust the right side up about 10mm higher than the left side to accomodate for a driver that is in it all the time.
Measure between the center of the hub and the wheel arch.
Regards
120scruiser
AnswerID:
143975
Reply By: Wisey (NSW) - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 16:32
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 16:32
Dan
This may help???? www.offroad.com/toyota/tech/torsion
while this site refers to Hilux, you might get some help here.
Andy
AnswerID:
144040
Reply By: Exploder - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 19:24
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 19:24
Jack the basted up so both front wheels are hanging free, Equal amount of turns on both torsion bar adjuster bolts (I think I did 6 turns on
mine) plus a bit more for the drivers side.
Then drop it down drive around
the block and
check the height and re-adjust if necessary also look at the angle on the CV’s and make sure you are happy with it, and then take it down for a wheel aliment.
AnswerID:
144072
Reply By: CAMERON LANCELEY - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 22:21
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 22:21
Dan,
I ve been through the process of what you are talking about, and assuming it is a 4X4,if you value your tyres, and dollars, take it to a GOOD mechanic with wheel alignment equipment and get it done professionally.
When you lift the front of the vehicle by winding up the bars, you also change the wheel camber , and to bring that into correct measurement, the mechanic will most likely have to remove(or add) some of the shims that are used to set the camber and castor which are held in place by the mounting bolts for the upper
suspension arms.He might also have to adjust the tie rods for your toe in/out as it all gets affected, and the only way you can measure it properly is with a good alignment machine and a mechanic who knows how to do a GOOD job.
Dont waste your time with the Bob Jane/ Beaurepairs/type franchises as they will not spend the time to do it properly.
Depending on the year model you have , I could give you various measurements that I was given by Holden mechanics, like the height between the lower
suspension arm and the rubber bump stop, or the measuremants from the manual, but they do not take into account the age of your torsion bars, or the relative sag on the right hand side from every mile your car has driven with a bum in the drivers
seat.
If you are in
Sydney I can give you the name of the workshop that did
mine for me and finally got it right. they are used to working on race vehicles. Other wise, good luck.
"sails"
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Stew53 - Friday, Dec 16, 2005 at 06:39
Friday, Dec 16, 2005 at 06:39
Dan, Measure from your guard to the top of your rim (with the car on level ground) screw the adjusting bolt up until the right side is equal to the left side, if you want to take the height up a bit just keep adjusting the bolts up evenly and measuring the guard to rim distance and taking the car for a drive around
the block to settle the
suspension, don’t go wild with the height and you shouldn’t have any problems..
Stew
AnswerID:
144110