Patrol GQ FWB

You may be better asking here:
http://forums.overlander.com.au
on the Technical Forum

Nissan have a tool available for 123.33

Try any repco store they should have something that will do, failing that, cold chisel and hammer :D

Must be a different nut to the 52.5mm one on my GQ...

Just a thought Daffyd______ what about the tool from a 9 inch angle grinder (for doing up the blade nut) some of them might be the right size and suitable hardness.

Daffyd.
Why do you want to do the nut up to 200 nm ? that is way to much. I normaly do them up with a piar of long nose pliers just enough to remove the end float. Some books talk about big tensions to seat the bearings but that is not a good idea as it will damage the fine surface of a modern bearing. Eric.

Daffyd
I sympathise with you. A while back I decided to have a go at repacking my front wheel bearings on my Aussie 1996 GQ Patrol. My workshop manual said I needed a 53mm hub nut socket and a torque wrench good for 200nm. Bought both for almost $200 and was most annoyed when I pulled the hub apart to find the setup you mentioned which didn't require the hub nut socket or the Nissan locking washers they sold me without bothering to tell me my vehicle didn't use them. When I removed the locking screw, the washer you mention with the holes was not real tight anyway (Nissan had done all of my previous servicing). I repacked the bearings, did the aforementioned holey washer up as tight as I could with a screwdriver and light tap with a hammer, then backed off to firm without the hammer tap and bearings have been going just fine for last 30,000. Check them now and then and seems to have worked ok without the use of an expensive torque wrench and special tool.

As John said, a screwdriver and hammer to tight then back off a little will do the trick.

I have the gregorys manual and the genuine nissan ones..

Save up for the nissan ones, they are awesome..... the gregorys one has some mistakes in capacities of things like diffs...

Daffyd.
Sorry I forgot to say that rotating the hub while adjusting it will seat the bearing in its correct spot. as for the high torque that is ok if on a production line when the process is automated and it is not practical to rotate the hub. On the subject of hayes manuals the person who payed $200 for the tools he did not nead demonstrates that the factory manual always works out cheaper in the end. Eric.

Daffyd
I have the Gregorys one with the 2.8 supplement. I too have found some differences to reality in it and use it purely as a guide not the bible. Wanted to get the Nissan books but you have to buy one for this and one for that and one for something else. Looked like you had to buy a few books to cover everything. Other reason I went with the gregorys is that I hope to upgrade to a 4.2 down the track so I can still use the same book. Sought of like buying a 2.8 in the first place....you have to compromise. Use it with an open mind.

Correct proceedure is to ONLY tighten up hub bearing to 200nm to ensure correct seating of hubs, bearings and seals - turn the disk rotor several times both directions, back bearing right off then retension to about 2-3 nm, then place lock washer in and lock off main nut (it wont move). Then lock nut can be tightened to spec which is as close to 200nm as you wish to go. do your homework if doing front bearings and read manual CAREFULLY common (mechanical) sense will assist with interpreting some of these manuals
kezz

Couple of questions now you've done it Daffyd.
How did you reseat the inner seal on your disc rotor. I tapped mine (ever so lightly) with a mallet and had some trouble getting it in. Also was a problem because the rubber lip sits higher than the metal surround, which means you actually are tapping the rubber bit which isn't real good.
Did you repack your free wheeling hubs? I couldn't separate the clutch assembly and handle from the housing. Settled on pulling the rollers out, cleaned the old grease out as best as possible and repacked it. Comparing to other GQs, there are a few different manual free wheeling hub setups as well. SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT A GENUINE MANUAL I SUPPOSE !!

Hi John,

I can't help you there as I didn't take the rotor off, I just adjusted the bearing. I only regreased the locking hub brake.

I have the 2 way locking hubs, on the hub they're marked Auto-Lock-Auto-Lock. If I'm going somewhere very boggy I lock the front hubs manually as they can get 'out of sysnc' in Auto usually if your bogged down and trying the 'rock' yourself out using fwd/rev. If that happens one hub usually starts making a loud clicking noise.

I know some models have a simpler Free-Lock type hub. I don't have any problem with the Auto hub so long as your aware of the limitations and use the manual lock if the going gets heavy.

Cheers
Daffyd