Heat Exchanges for car showers

Can't believe I just this minute posted a similar question on another forum and you beat me to it here...LOL

:o) Melissa

Oh, I should have added that we're looking at making up our own unit based on a "How to" article from an old 4WD mag. Save $$$.

:o) Melissa

Gday Michael, we have an Original Glind (not the Little Ripper) on our Toyota Surf 1KZ-TE turbo diesel.
It is great!
What none of the manufacturers mention when they boast about the temperature of the water - is the ambient temperature of the water. Even when the engine is at normal operating temperature, the output temperature will be related to the input temperature. As the pump determines the flow rate, so the amount of time that the water is in the heat exchanger is constant.
If your input water temp was 20 - 25C then in our case we would have a very comfortable shower temp. However if the input temp was say from a creek or tank where the water temp in winter was almost freezing - then you would be disapointed with the output temperature, as it would be somewhat colder. This is the situation when it may be necessary to circulate it into another container first so as to enable the rise in ambient input temperature.
Our only concern, and once you know about it then you can make allowance is - if there are a number of people using the shower, and it gets turned off between users - then the water that is within the heat exchanger is not flowing and heats up to the engine operating temperature pretty fast. The result is that when the next person switches it on again - after the water in the hose between exchanger and showerhead flows through - A BURST OF BOILING HOT WATER WILL COME THROUGH! It will clear in a few seconds, but users should be made aware not to stand under it when it is first turned back on - until the temperature stabilises.
Another way to get around the scolding problem is to use the Glind to heat the water to the desired temperature by recirculating first - and then turn the engine off before using the system. That way a constant temperature will flow without the risk of scolding.
Overall we are really happy with the Glind and would recommend it. The Original model differs from the Little Ripper in that it has a bigger pump, with more lifting ability and flow rate. If the water is pumping too slow then regulation of the temperature becomes difficult - have heard of this problem from Little Ripper owners.

Tuco in Cairns

all pumps to my knoledge are constant flow, if you live in Sydney , Caravan Accessories at Kogarah have a large range of pumps same as Twine and Glind use.. Michael

Hi all.
I use a submersible 12 volt pump with a shower head purchased from a caravan out let for about $35. I can regulate the exact temp of the water via my stove and kettle and I know exactly how much water I use. I do not have to turn on the engine to get it hot so the the interchange works nor do I have to worry about installation or ambient temperature as mentioned previously. When I want to resoap I just stick the shower head back in the bucket from where I am drawing the water. I can get the water from any source, my tank, a nearby tap or a creek.

Maybe worth considering.
Regards

Hi Michael and Melissa,

My name is John Eggenhuizen and I recently purchased the Twine Shower systems, I also run Getabout 4WD Adventures here in Sydney.
With the Twine shower unit it is the old remington ad, I was so impressed with the product I bought the company. Well anyway, to sort out your initial question Michael, the temperatures that were quoted apparently were done on both an 80 series and a 2.8l hilux both diesels.

I run a fleet of GU patrols 4.2TD and 4.5 petrol, the coldest water we come across is down in the Victorian High country, average temperature is about 10 degrees. the patrols run a bit cooler than the toyotas, but with my revs around 1500rpm and the heater control full on, I can normally shower about 10 - 15 people each night and have hd no complaints. If I need to make it a bit hotter I just slow down the flow slightly at the shower rose, ( this means the water stays in the exchange unit longer).
If you find that you still want the water hotter, give us a yell, because we can make our heat exchange units lnger or shorter to suit your particular application.
You will also note in some of the follow ups that people are using pumps with different flow rates, if you use one that is too fast the water will always be cold. Somewhere between 4 - 8 lpm should be ideal.

Hope that has been of some help.

I've had a glind shower in my 80 series Cruiser for 7 years. It works great. I find I rarely move the interior heater control off the cold end or it's just too damn hot, even out of the Fitzroy River in July. I only ever idle the petrol engine as it generates enough heat to warm a small town even at idle. As stated in other replies the shower head has a valve on it and the pump has a pressure switch. Turn the flow off at the shower head and the pump cuts out. But watch-out for the scalding initial flow when it's turned back on. It's great for filling baby baths too. I find the heat exchanger will produce water too hot for my hands, if you want it that hot, when doing dishes, even without recirculation.

My heat exchanger did start leaking last year(Out of warrantee) but the top bloke a Glind just sent me a new one in exchange for the old. I got a new shower head and hose last week to replace a damaged old one (Don't store them in a hot 80 engine bay) and he got it here to the Kimberly in 48 hours from QLD.

I can highy the shower and the great service at Glind. Don't waste your time making one. You can buy just the heat exchanger if that's all you want.

Happy showering,
Ian.

P.S. The pop up shower tents you can get at just over $100 are fantastic too. Should have got one years ago. Bugger stuffing around with tarps and stuff. They go up and down in seconds and take up no room.