prado boiling with heat exchanger

The HE should be after the heater controls.

Sounds like there is a blockage in the HE. It shouldn't make ANY difference with the HE added.

I think you may find that the Prado is one vehicle that the heater control on the dash does not control water flow but directs airflow through or past the heater element.

One of the guys on a shower stand at the 4wd show in Melb rattled off a short list of vehicles (mostly modern Jap) that use this setup. You can add Courier/B series to the list. I couldn't work out why my heater control wasn't controlling the temp and when I rang the ford dealer it took me ages to find a mechanic who could tell me the ins and outs of the heater system on it.

These vehicles require use of a tap under the bonnet.

It sounds like you have bypassed your heater element. The glind system goes in line with it. I read the Helton description on how they recommend hooking it up be fore I bought my Glind but I can't see why they do it that way. Nor can I understand why that alone would cause it to overheat given that you really shouldn't be sailing so close to the wind that not having the heater element operating would overheat the vehicle.

Assuming that you definately have the right hoses for a moment - put a joiner in and bypass the helton HE leaving all other hoses in place does it still over heat? If yes then maybe the kinked hose. If not then maybe there is a problem with the heat exchanger.

Maybe you have induced an airlock into the system somewhere???? Even then I can't really understand why it would work the way you are describing as it should overheat all the time if the HE isn't the problem.

Best of luck,

Dave

I have a helton and have had it on two 4x4s now without a problem and mine is set up the same on both, i think it maybe a blockage or a kinked hose cause the Helton is the same as all the other heat exchangers all you are doing is completing a flow of water, should be the same as before insatllation just a little further to go basicly.

It's a bit hard to really work out the problem without actually seeing it but setting it up in parallel would definately fix it. install a ball valve and turn off the water going through the heat exchanger when not in use. You could ask Ivan from the ACT i think, he has a v6 Prado a couple of years old, see how he set up his system.. Michael

thanks for the great response Its definatly not kinked hose I,m going to fit hose after heater control on the weekend see if that makes a difference . Helton replied to my email and suggested they can send me a valve to shut off HT when not needed but maybe heater control will do the same job see ya

From your post, you have installed it so water bypasses the heater. I think you'll find this is wrong, and will probably prevent your heater from working too.

The usual method is to break into the hoses leading to the heater valve so water flows from the block to the heat exchanger and then to the heater, so the heater valve controls the flow of water. The return line from the heater is not touched.

Your current setup is creating a shunt which is diverting water from being cooled by the radiator (or the heater), so its causing our overheating.

Our heat exchangers have been installed in most makes and models of 4WD's and we have never encountered the problem before in the Prado or any other vehicle.

We would like to explain the theory behind parallel fitting as opposed to series fitting. Series fitting (as per our opposition) has the main disadvantage of combining the resistance of both heat exhanger and heater core and reducing the overall flow through the heat exchanger. It does have the advantage of allowing heat control via the car heater control. It does mean the vehicle heater needs to be on - not much good for the esky in the back!

Parallel fitting with the car heater turned off forces all available water through the heat exchanger thereby increasing volume/temperature of output water. We supply fittings for either installation. We recommend parallel installation as it is more efficient though it is really a matter of personal choice.

Cheers

I agree with Phil above. You have obviously tried with the HE fitted and also without and the problem only surfaces with the HE in parallel with the heater. I don't know the internal resistance of the HE but if it is low, then you will be reducing the amount of water passing through the radiator. How good/clean is your radiator? perhaps it is borderline and the bypass through the HE may be just enough to cause you to overheat. This problem would be made worse if you had your heater on at the same time. If your radiator is OK (don't just assume this - check it out with a flow test at least), then perhaps it's worth trying the HE in series instead of parallel and see if that fixes it.

Cheers
Gerry

if the return line goes to the back of the head may be it relies on the extra flow through the head, if the H.E restricts the flow you may have a problem with cooling The reason for the continuous flow in the heater systems of some cars is for climate control A.C as this requires a ready supply of warm air to help balance the air temp coming from the vents the heater circuit is normally full flow therefore the manufacturers use this water in their cooling calculations and yes cooling is only just good enough why overdesign i would try the bypass system

Many thanks for all of your responses.Helton have been fantastic with their response to help.They suggested a valve to be used in line which they sent in a couple of days. I fitted the valve then thrashed the Prado in second gear up the freeway jn 34 degree heat no problems.Many thanks to Helton Great product Great service!!!!!