"Rhino" Roof Racks

Johnno

I have the small ARB rack on my GU Patrol and basically use it for the additional spare tyre and odds and ends. I sling it under the garage roof using two pulleys and can handle removal and fitting easily. The Rhino rack would certainly be lighter and friends have used them on the Simpson etc. It is imprtant regradless of whcuh rack you choose to use theradlock when fitting to ensure bolts don't work loose. The Rhino rack has several bolts holding it all together so make sure thread lock is used on all of them.

Peter

I had the same problem with the low garage. Because I didn't have gutters I went the Rhino Sports Bars with a basket. I can just squeese under the roller door with the bars on and then I whack the basket on when I'm travelling. The basket has a Bushranger Rack Sack on it (which IMHO has stood up extremely well) and shovel holders, annex, flag mount etc etc. That way one simple movement turns city car into traveling car! :-)

My basket would be pretty bleep weak compared to the full length and it has never (touch wood) missed a beat and we probally over load it a bit. Done heaps of 4wding including dunes, tight bush tracks etc etc with it and never had a problem, I reckon you'd be have no probs.

BTW the other reason for the bars and basket was cost, the bars were about $200-300 fitted and the basket I got second hand for $100. Cheaper than the full lenght jobby as well.
But I reckon the full length would have to be a little more sturdy.

I have had one of the Thule racks for about 2 years. They are very similar to the Rhino Racks I believe. Simply mounts to 2 roof bars using the supplied U bolts. Have never needed thread-lock .. just check every day enroute. They seem very strong units, with the added advantage of being very light for one person to get on/off the roof bars. The only vulnerability seems to be the sides of these racks which don't have robust attachments to the 'floor' beams of the rack. I occassionaly carry a heavy polypropylene canoe on the rack and had to rivet some aluminium "L" brackets between the front/back edges and the floor beams. Other than that I reckon they are great

Johnno,

I have a 1800 Rhino Rack fitted to Rola bars on my GU. The Rhino needs to be fitted to either Rola or Rhino bars. The attachment points involve 12 screws that firt into rotating lock plates plus 6 heavy duty eyebolts. (Check out the Rhino Rack web page for the installation instructions).

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I remove my rack when it is not in use. It takes about 20-30 minutes and I can do it alone, using 4 straps to haul it up into the garage rafters. Fitting takes about the same time. I have marked a number of alignment points with dots of paint so that it always goes back onto the same spots on the bars.

I routinely check the screws for tightness when on a trip. (Two different size keys required) There has never been a problem with them coming loose despite many K's on corugations.

The lightness of the aluminiumn Rhino sold me. I have had some "creaking" noises that seem to come only when the rack is installed. It does not quite sit level across the three carry bars, but _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx down OK with the screws. The supplier has had a look/listen and he blames the bead of sealnt in the gutters of the Nissan. It is quite soft and settles down after a while as long as you always install everything back in the same spot (hence my paint marks).

I have had the unfortunate experience of driving under a check barrier at a city carpark entrance. We came to a grinding halt. The barrier was a large concrete and steel bolster that trapped us firmly. I couldn't budge it by hand so I reversed out. After a few grinds and scrapes we got free. The damge was limited to one cracked nylon corner piece and a slight dent in one rail. It is barely noticeable!. You can buy replacement parts, which is a big advantage over the steel racks.

Overall I am very pleased with the rhino. There is virtually no noise. I have a full length waterproof sack made by candycanvas which works very well.

Kings