Rust proofing what's the best

I,m thinking of doing the same and have found this product from Staun.

Masso 329

Does anyone know anything about it?

I'm also looking at this for my new Hilux. What method are you intending to use for application? In my old hilux, 84 model, I used a spray gun with a fisholene equivalent, but it was messy. Worked a treat. I'd hate to do the same to my new one. what is the trick to application in the doors etc?

Cheers

I've used Lanotec which is a tacky oil produced from lanolin. It works very well because it will seep into all the nooks and crannies and can be put on by brush or spray. The other advantage is that it doesn't have the horrid smell of fisholene. It does smell but no where near as bad. If you do use fisholene I'd recommend mixing it with 30% NEW (old oil is corrosive) engine oil to make it easier to apply and seep into cracks etc and also prevent it from going hard. Fisholene is also like a paint so any that gets on panel work will mark it. With either of these products you will still have to re-do your vehicle every 12 months or so depending on how often you pressure clean you 4by. A tar based product is best for under floor mats etc where it could stay wet for long periods of time. This is just my personal experience.

Cheers,
Hughesy

Austravel,
I used a mixture of Tectol and Fishoilene on my Tojo several years ago and appears to be working, as far as i can tell. Forgot the mix ratio, probably 1 Tectol x 2 Fish. Poke the extension up the channels and spray on way out.
Cheers,
Bros.

Hi there Austravel

Go the Lanotech way, you wont be sorry. check the old posts as there are some dealing with lanotech. great stuff.

Regards

Bob

I've heard of two different mixtures, both involving Lanotec. Either 70/30 Lanotec GP-21 and diesel or 50/50 Lanotec GP-21 and WD40. I used the diesel combination on my last ute but as ive only had it 3 years, cant comment on its true longevity. No rust yet though. I intend on using the Lanotec / WD40 mixture when i get my new truck. I also have an ERPS unit. No matter how long you spend treating the vehicle chemically, you will always miss a few small spots. This is where the ERPS units earn their keep. I used a 5L Pump Pack from Bunnings to treat the major components such as inside the panels and chassis rails. I then used a small syringe and cotton buds to treat around seals and the smaller components. I think it only took me about 1.5 litres of mixture to do the whole ute ( dual cab Triton styleside ) and a days effort. That included removing, cleaning and treating as many bolts and screws that i could find. I used Lanotec grease for that.

3 other bits of advice though. Do the rust proofing over LOTS of newspaper unless you have a work shop. Also, make sure the vehicle is thoroughly dry and clean when you do it, especially inside the chassis rails ( i.e make sure they dont have 2 inches of mud set like concrete ). Lastly, and probably the most difficult thing .. give yourself at least a 2 weeks after treatment before you go off road and at least a month before you drive on sand. It will stick forever otherwise. Dust isnt so bad but sand is'nt exactly desirable. Infact .. if you can wait, double those times. I reackon it will be worth it.

Michael

Thanks all.