Using 3 way fridge

Submitted: Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 08:09
ThreadID: 148113 Views:2378 Replies:8 FollowUps:33
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I am new to caravaning. When I had my tow ball put on, I asked for an isolation switch to be added. (Who knows where that is, under bonnet I presume). I have since had two more solar panels put on the roof and thought I could run my fridge on 12V from the house battery when stationary. After paying thousands of dollars I am now told by the installers that my type of fridge which is not a compression fridge is only designed for battery use when driving along. Is this true? The only other things atm that I am using 12V for is water pump and lighting which is overkill for the amount of panels and extra battery I now have if I can’t run fridge on battery when stationary. I did try running on house battery overnight & even though the volt gauge showed 13, the freezer was defrosting in the morning. This is as clear as I can get, sorry. I would really like to understand how it all works & get some clarity before I take off on a long trip. Thanks Gail
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Reply By: Nomadic Navara - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 10:25

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 10:25
Gail, absorption fridges are very hungry on 12V power. The smallest fridges will draw up to 15A of current continuously. That means that over a 24-hour period, they will draw 360 Ah of current. If you only have a 100 to 120 Ah battery, you will discharge that battery to a very low discharge level in six hours, give or take. If you have a larger two door fridge, your fridge may draw up to 25A of current and you will run out of power much quicker than that. Or to put it another way, running a three way fridge from your battery without the motor running is more savage than forgetting to switch your headlights off.

Unfortunately, the battery power sales persons you talk to at caravan and 4WD shows have no appreciation of what absorption fridges and inverters can do to a battery. Also, many auto electricians have little appreciation of their power requirements also. That is why you may have been led stray with your expectations.

The following is Dometic's suggestion of how their absorption fridges should be installed
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Follow Up By: Member - Warren H - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 11:11

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 11:11
Peter good advice, but the wiring diagram is probably 30 years out of date as it shows the set up for a petrol engine with points and a coil.
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Follow Up By: Zippo - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 11:13

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 11:13
That historic diagram (coil/points) remains sound advice today as Peter explained.

3-way fridges are intended for 12V operation ONLY when vehicle is running - as gas is not to be used when mobile for safety reasons. When stationary, GAS is the option to employ unless/until you have AC power available. This becomes slightly problematic when you pull up in a town for lunch/refuel/dump-site/etc as it still takes a sizeable bite out of the battery.

We hired a 3-way-equipped motorhome in Europe (single battery vehicle), and found out very quickly that it didn't function on 12V. Turns out the hirer had disconnected the supply line as he was sick of flat battery issues caused by users who didn't fully appreciate how they should be operated. I reconnected it quick-smart for the duration.
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Follow Up By: Tony W - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 07:25

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 07:25
That doesign will work ok if you have a good, charged fresh battery, but may be problematic as batteries age or are not fully charged.

Bettter to use a voltage sensitive relay so the connection is only made after the engine is running. Simpler to wire up too.

I am sure others will comment on the need for decent wiring to reduce voltage drops too.
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Follow Up By: Kazza055 - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 13:44

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 13:44
Nothing wrong with the design, ignition is on while engine is running and off when the motor is not running, how simple is that?

I work on the KISS principle and that is so simple.

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Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 17:24

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 17:24
There seems to be a fetish for using a device that costs 8 to 10 times the cost of a simple relay by members of most of the forums I frequent. When questioned, they always justify using a VSR to overcome things that are unlikely to happen. In 30 years of using the simple relays, I have never encountered any of the reasons I have posed. When people install a VSR they generally forget the high parasitic load they impose on the electrical system. If you have some of these that have a severe parasitic load then they are worth being replaced with a relay just to reduce the constant parasitic load on the tugs battery.

as Kazza said, KISS is the way to go.
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Follow Up By: Tony W - Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 08:01

Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 08:01
Cheapest solution is not always the best. That's the case here.

I think you will find the parasitic load as you call it is not severe in any decent VSR. In fact most will have standby current of 1 - 10ma. For example the Redarc is <5mA, Vicoffroad 1mA. There are many examples. MOSFET technology has changed things since the ignition coil days.

Standby ( or parasitic as you call it) current is simply not an issue if you know what you are buying these days.



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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 08:29

Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 08:29
.
I agree Tony, you are right. But so also is Peter.
Personally, I prefer a simple relay (or "solenoid") type isolation, but often in modern vehicles it can be difficult to access an "ignition" source for the relay coil and a voltage-controlled relay is more convenient even if more expensive.
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Reply By: RMD - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 12:09

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 12:09
Hello Gail. Not sure how many watts of solar panel you have, but unless you have about 300watts of genuine output panels, through a regulator to battery and then fridge, stationary use is not going to happen for long.
AND at night time it won't anyway, (unless you use Albanese panels which charge overnight),
I cannot fathom how you can have 13v on a volt meter connected to the circuit which is running the fridge because 15AMP draw will drop the battery voltage below that in a couple of minutes, if not sooner. Something not right there!
Your system from the vehicle may have insufficient cable size which cause a voltage DROP at the fridge 15amp element and it might be enough while alternator is charging but drops to POOR amp flow (because of resistance in the circuit ( neg and positive lines included) causing far less energy actually reaching the heating element which runs the fridge. These fridges run on a HEAT input to operate. If low heat, cooling will happen but freeze unlikely.

You need to measure, or get measure, what voltage do you have at the FRIDGE TERMINALS when on Alternator and also just on battery, Ie, two readings for two situations, . Then some diagnosis can happen.

A VSR can be used a (VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY) which switches the fridge ON when battery supply is above 13.2v and cuts off when it drops to 12.8v. An auto electrical switch in other words! This can be used quite well. But the wiring has to be sufficient in size so MAXimum available current demand can be met otherwise fridge cooling ability suffers.
Even with everything ok, stationary use is flat battery within a couple of hours and cooling ability lost as the voltage and current diminishes. Beow about 13.2 volts the fridge isn't really going to cool or freeze and a battery cannot maintain anywhere near that for very long. Ask other questions which you may have. Sorry, but there are not many people in any trade who are genuine and truthful and can complete and solve problems.
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Reply By: Kazza055 - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 12:26

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 12:26
That is why you also can run it on gas.

My car is wire through an ignition relay so it only supplies 12v while the motor is running and alternator supplying power. Running of battery without the alternator will kill the battery in about an hour.

Generally the fridge should stay cold for a couple of hours so I don't use the gas unless stopping over night without 240v.
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Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 14:25

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 14:25
Ony IF the system was working well in the first instance. A warm fridge won't get colder on just battery with poor supply.
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Reply By: Gail H2 - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 13:27

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 13:27
Thank you. Looks like gas is the go. Unfortunately my van has 2 small cylinders so probably about 10-12 days supply if stationery & running fridge. I had a 1000w inverter installed to run small kitchen equipment occasionally & a tv which I will watch sometimes so extra solar not a total waste. In all fairness I did say to the installer I wanted to be able to free camp for up to 10 days but at the time didn’t realise I couldn’t use Solar for 12v fridge. Thanks again. Gail
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Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 19:01

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 19:01
Gail.
If you have sufficient solar it WILL RUN THE FRIDGE but not at night. Or dull days.
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Reply By: Gail H2 - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 13:34

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 13:34
Hi, yes I did ask the installers whether the house battery was connected to the fridge As the voltage didn’t seem to drop when using it and they assured me it was. A lot of these guys take a lend when they see a woman coming in without a guy with her. They did make a lead which goes onto an Anderson plug on the drawbar and then into the car so I can be charging from the alternator while I’m driving along. I think it works. I’ve only tried it once.
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Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 14:28

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 14:28
Gail. Best to have that LEAD checked for ability/performance, If it ISN'T a LARGE THICK CABLE it may have too much voltage drop and not really getting the house battery to fully charged when running on alternator.
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Follow Up By: Kazza055 - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 15:13

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 15:13
Hi Gail, the fridge will have 2 separate 12v supplies wired to it. One will be from the van battery and is used for the control side of the fridge. The other is from the car and only is used to operate the heating element that cools the fridge and draws about 15amps hence is only on while the motor is running.
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Follow Up By: Keir & Marg - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 16:06

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 16:06
Hi Gail,
The Dometic 3-way fridges are very sensitive to being exactly horizontal so that the absorption circuit works properly. It pays to make sure your van is as level as possible when camping.
I finally got sick of the Dometic 3-way and changed to a Bushman compressor fridge, giving me 130L of storage (as against 90L). The changeover cost about $2k but I now have a fridge that properly freezes and runs off the van battery at all times, and it allows me to free camp for several days without bothering to connect the portable solar panels, or indefinitely with the panels connected and in sunlight.
Keir
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Reply By: Gail H2 - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 13:39

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 13:39
Hi Kazza, yes I have that set up I believe. Good to know I can stop for an hour or 2 without fridge on & food will still be frozen. Would be annoying to have to put it on gas every single time I stopped. It’s a full on learning curve for me after the easiness of my motorhome but I’m sure in time I will get there. Backing the caravan is definitely a work in progress. ??
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Follow Up By: Member - David M (SA) - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 14:24

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 14:24
"Backing the caravan is definitely a work in progress." And when you get it right first time there's no one looking. Mess it up and everyone in the park is watching . :)
Dave.
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Follow Up By: RMD - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 14:35

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 14:35
Turn left while reversing the van goes right . Mirrors will confirm it. Turn R and van goes left. EVERYTHING IS FRACK TO BUNT.

PS. If it s hot day and inside the van is HOT too, 2 hours is a long time and fridge will rise in temp. Do you have a small 12v computer fan, switchable, to supply cooler air to the back of fridge area so it CAN get rid of heat so it CAN work better? Almost essential if in hotter climate.
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Follow Up By: Batt's - Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 18:24

Monday, Aug 05, 2024 at 18:24
I was taught the usual way to reverse both hands on top of the wheel but yrs later a work mate said put both of your hands on the bottom of the steering wheel.
When you want the van to go left raise your left hand and to go right raise your right hand it's so much easier and you never have to think opposite again when reversing.
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Follow Up By: Gail H2 - Tuesday, Aug 06, 2024 at 09:09

Tuesday, Aug 06, 2024 at 09:09
Yes I have been told that method Of hands on the bottom of the steering wheel But still doesn’t seem to work. I will just have to keep trying. As someone said to me yesterday, by the time I get back from Tasmania, I’ll be all over it. ??????
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Follow Up By: Member - Warren H - Tuesday, Aug 06, 2024 at 14:04

Tuesday, Aug 06, 2024 at 14:04
We did a course with 'Tow-ed' they use a different more 'formulaic' approach for reversing into a site to others. As far as backing goes, I have found the following useful: You imagine that the steering wheel is connected to the back of the trailer by a (big) bowed stick. Turn the wheel to the right ie clockwise and you are pushing the rear of the trailer behind the vehicle (relative to the driver's position). Turn to the left and you are pulling the rear out.
All the while off course checking your position and progress in your mirrors.
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Follow Up By: RMD - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 18:49

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 18:49
Warren. What does that mean? I cannot work out what a bent stick etc means. Bizarre.
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Follow Up By: Member - Warren H - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 19:06

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 19:06
RMD, more a bowed stick, a long bow, or perhaps put another way, a length of wood that describes an arc of a circle of an appropriate radius to connect the steering wheel with the rear of the trailer, so just a mental conceptualisation that was used by the trainer that I have continued to find useful if I have a brain fade while reversing the camper.
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Reply By: StormCamper - Tuesday, Aug 06, 2024 at 22:07

Tuesday, Aug 06, 2024 at 22:07
Running a 3-way on DC power is only meant to be done while driving, then when you get to destination you run on gas. i.e the power comes from the alternator so battery runtime isn't a concern.

The alternator is simply there to keep the fridge alive while driving and should be enough to prevent any food spoilage.
The only issue is since the 3 ways use a heating element you want as little voltage drop as possible, more voltage drop means it cant perform as well, so something like 2awg wire from the alternator to the rear.
During a stop the insulation of the fridge and the fact that the contents are already cold means they wont spoil easily.

Forget about running a 3-way on DC at camp, its so impractical unless you are in sundrenched area with minimal clouds and long sunhours etc, they draw ridiculous amounts of current and its so impractical in general.

From my research a while back, the average caravan 3-way fridge in real summer conditions consumes a full 9KG LPG bottle in as little as 1.5 weeks, 2 max if your very conservative.
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Follow Up By: Batt's - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 01:02

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 01:02
When refueling the car or ducking into the shops say max around 1 hour we would leave it on 12v but switch to gas if we thought it would be longer as they suck the power. There not the best in summer especially when traveling in hilly areas you get big fluctuations in temps sometimes food would be a bit to warm for my liking and can freeze food in the fridge in winter.
Also my first fridge in the 4wd was a 3 way in the mid 90's but there so outdated these days and 12v fridges don't require constant checking and switching power sources.
My next van will definitely have a 12v fridge for much more stable fridge/freezer temps plenty of solar on roof and at minimum 400ah of lithium batteries and a battery charger to suit. Keep the setup simple for less problems.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 18:17

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 18:17
.
You do WHAT? ……. You light a fire under the fridge to keep the food cold?? Your'e kidding me, right?
Sorry, but what buffoon thought that one up?
I mean really…..? An open flame is it?……. Underneath your refrigerator, right?
And it runs on gas? Well I suppose that's an improvement on kerosene. But not much!
I think you need to look at the calendar. Up at the top it says 2024. Yep, 21st century. We have electricity now and compressor refrigerators. Wonderful things.
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Follow Up By: Batt's - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 22:49

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 22:49
Odd reply Allan not sure if it's aimed at someone I expect they know what year it is.
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Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 23:51

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 23:51
Allan, it is tied up with the development of refrigeration and the timing of the introduction of batteries in caravans. Here are a few snippets gleaned by using Copilot:

"James Harrison (1856): An Australian, Harrison developed the first practical ice-making machine and introduced commercial refrigeration to breweries and meat-packing houses."
These were rather large machines initially driven by steam engines until the event of internal combustion engines later in the 19th century. They were generally found in commercial store rooms and ice making plants. They were far too large for domestic use.

"Household Refrigerators: By the early 20th century, refrigerators became common in households, revolutionising food storage and preservation"
These were still not small units, they used open frame units (as distinct from the sealed units) They were still too large for use in workers cottages.

"Sir Edward Hallstrom (1920s-1930s): In the 1920s, Sir Edward Hallstrom designed and manufactured the first domestic refrigerators in Australia. Initially, these refrigerators used kerosene as a power source. In 1935, he introduced the ‘Silent Night’ refrigerator, which could run on electricity or gas"
These fridges were cheap enough and small enough for the working class. Between the wars, electricity was only used for lights jugs and toasters. The majority of the population did not have electric power, so compressor fridges would have been of little use.

"You light a fire under the fridge to keep the food cold" - yes, that's how the first of the fridges built by Hallstrom worked. They were the old Icy Ball fridges. You lit a kero burner and stuck it under the ball a few times through the day.

"Post-World War II: After World War II, refrigeration technology expanded rapidly in Australia. The spread of electrification and the development of more efficient refrigeration systems made it possible for refrigeration to become a common feature in both urban and rural households."
That was the start of compressor refrigeration in homes. I remember the 1940s fairly clearly, very few households had fridges, the masses still had ice chests.

"Renaissance in the 1960s: Absorption refrigeration saw renewed interest in the 1960s due to the demand for refrigerators in caravans and recreational vehicles (RVs). These systems could be powered by propane, making them ideal for mobile use."
During the 1060s, small size 12V sealed units were not readily available. Also, there was not a ready supply of small size deep cycle storage batteries, Nicads had not become popular and AGMs were still on the horizon. Any 12V systems for vans were mainly for lighting and car batteries were employed as storage batteries. So that is how absorption caravan fridges came about.
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Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 23:54

Thursday, Aug 08, 2024 at 23:54
Further from Copilot.

The Icy Ball refrigerators were early, innovative refrigeration devices that didn’t require electricity, making them ideal for rural areas. Here’s a brief history:

Origins and Development
Sir Edward Hallstrom (1923): The first Icy Ball was created by Australian Sir Edward Hallstrom. It was a kerosene-powered refrigerator designed to bring refrigeration to remote areas.

David Forbes Keith (1927): Independently, David Forbes Keith of Toronto patented a similar design. His version was later manufactured by Powel Crosley Jr. in the United States.

How It Worked

Absorption Refrigeration: The Icy Ball used a gas-absorption refrigeration cycle with ammonia and water as the working fluids. It consisted of two metal balls connected by a pipe. One ball was heated to drive off ammonia gas, which then condensed in the other ball, creating a cooling effect.

Manual Operation: Users would heat the “hot ball” for about 1.5 hours, typically using a kerosene stove. This process would charge the system, allowing it to provide cooling for the rest of the day.

Impact and Usage

Rural Accessibility: The Icy Ball was particularly valuable in rural areas without access to electricity. It allowed farmers and remote households to preserve food and make ice.

Commercial Success: The Crosley Icy Ball became quite popular in the late 1920s and early 1930s, selling thousands of units.

The Icy Ball represents an important step in the evolution of refrigeration technology, especially in making it accessible to those without reliable electricity.

Is there anything specific you’d like to know more about regarding the Icy Ball or other early refrigeration technologies?
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Follow Up By: Batt's - Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 01:58

Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 01:58
Make a lot more sense very good and informative history lesson Thanks for taking the time.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 07:57

Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 07:57
Thanks for that history Peter. Mind you, I lived through some of that and well remember the stench of burnt kerosene in some houses I visited. And I well remember the instructor's comment near the end of my 1949 refrigeration course………. "And now we come to absorption refrigeration. The best advice I can give you is to take it out onto the back lawn and roll it about for a bit. Put it back and fire it up then come back next day and by the Grace of God it may be working."……….. He was of course illustrating the difficulty of rectifying an absorption system fault and did proceed to instruct on the absorption principles and maintenance of the heating system. But I heeded his disdain.

Sure, absorption refrigeration served its purpose in the last century but it is now really history and perhaps you did not appreciate my humour in the style of Bob Newhart, who is now also, regrettably history.

And Batt's, not aimed specifically at anyone here. Just a generalisation with tongue-in-cheek.
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Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 19:04

Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 19:04
So you have a button down mind, do you? Are you aware that he snuffed it three weeks ago at the ripe old age of 94?
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 19:53

Friday, Aug 09, 2024 at 19:53
.
Yes Peter, I was aware of Bob Newhart's demise which is why I said he was also "regrettably history".
His reaching 94 is maybe evidence of how possessing a good sense of humour can benefit longevity. Hmmm?
But I am at a loss how you deduce that I may have a "button down mind"? Anything but I should think!
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Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 07:17

Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 07:17
Here’s a kero fridge, working it’s little, albeit heavy, heart out in NT’s Victoria River district, 50 years ago.



Fill the tank every day, don’t trim the wick with a knife & only open the door when necessary!
“Rolling around on the lawn” type maintenance was done once or twice a week when we shifted camp. Loaded into the tub of a Landcruiser ute & subjected to corrugations, wash outs & other road hazards.

These days can’t beat a couple of Engels, big battery & plenty of solar.

Bob

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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 07:41

Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 07:41
.
Bob, I can just imagine you lugging that fridge and other essentials around on station work. Tough times.
Mind you, it was 41 years ago that I got my first Engel to replace an Esky. Bonza thing,. even if it did sound like a Mustang taking off!

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Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 08:14

Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 08:14
Allan, as you are a fan of Bob Newhart, I thought you possibly have some of his characteristics. I was just asking. There are the odd occasions when I think like him.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 08:22

Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 08:22
.
Pete, I'm just not sure that Bob's public persona was the real Bob Newhart.
And I'm not sure of my own characteristics, other than being a pot-stirrer. lol

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Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 08:25

Saturday, Aug 10, 2024 at 08:25
"Bob, I can just imagine you lugging that fridge and other essentials around on station work."

Allan, that was the good old days when we made use of what was available. We did not sit around on our hands waiting for something better to come along. That photo is dated 1973, there were no solar panels commercially around then and the only readily available batteries were car batteries. Anyone who had a kero fridge out in the bush thought they were the bees knees.
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Reply By: Member -Pinko (NSW) - Thursday, Aug 15, 2024 at 08:57

Thursday, Aug 15, 2024 at 08:57
For what it’s worth I replaced my old RM 2350 3 way with a new RM2356 3 way. The 2356 has an extra 5 litre capacity (95 lt. ). Far more efficient and tropical rated. It has an automatic energy function where if run on gas and senses the engine start it will change to 12v. Conversely if you pull into refuel it will delay the piezoelectric gas supply ignition for 15 minutes (provided the gas is on). As opposed to the 2350 the 2356 are thermostatically controlled energy sources. Almost set and forget. A wire from the ignition and a heavy supply cable are still necessary
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