Welder Recommendation

I totally agree with Peter, get a professional to do it.

Using flux core requires a polarity change on the unit and a tune up of the feed and then they go fine. We use them all the time in the field. They will never be as good as a mig or a good DC stick in a workshop, but they blow through galv like it's not there (yes in fresh air...).
I cannot suggest strongly enough if you are going to start DIY welding, get a sparky to install a 15a outlet and buy a 15a machine. Until you have seen the difference good clean current makes, you wouldn't be able to fathom it, and being a beginner it will drive you mental trying to do general fab at low amps no matter which unit you go for. Personally I'd recommend flux core for general stuffing about, then DC stick for thicker steel - BUT they need a lot of current to do so. If you start on a gasless machine you'll pick it up easy.

I too have an Aldi stick welder and fully support the "stick" nomenclature 100% . It came with a hand-held mask that guarantees I do not strike the arc where I should. I have also found that I can run an excellent bead down one side of the join. I can also produce copious amounts of what my Belgian engineer friend describes as "cocky shit". What would a Belgian engineer know about that? Enough, apparently, for he is not wrong. LOL

I have had a couple of successes though.

Would roasting the sticks in a kitchen oven for an hour or so at 250 dry them out, do you think?

Drying them in an oven definitely works, doesn't need to be a super hot oven either, 80 degrees C is more than enough. There are warming ovens for the professionals as some rods just work better when hot and the cellulose fluxes suck the moisture out of the air and become painful to use.

I store mine in a plastic zip lock bag when the factory packaging gets a bit beaten up, but they tend to punch holes in the bag easily.

I've left them wrapped in alfoil in the oven for a week so they get a couple of heat cycles before using them on a weekend. They don't let out fumes at normal cooking temperatures (not that I could taste anyway), but you may struggle to convince the wife that you're all not going to die from heavy metal poisoning.

Best welder though? A well set up MIG is pretty much point and shoot, but if there is any breeze the gas shielding can blow away.
Gasless is messy, but a bit more wind resistant.
Stick takes some practice, but is pretty reliable and can be used outdoors. Used stick welders are dirt cheap and very low maintenance.

At previous employment long ago as apprentice mechanic, after a year in the machining shop, welding/fabrication shop was next for almost a year. It had a dedicated warm oven, not to warm the rods but make sure they were dry when beginning welding. If you dropped one out in the field, ie, wetted, we simply held the rod short circuited until it heated and steamed off. Same in the workshop if not near the oven. Dry is good. hot not needed, they get hot quick enough.
With modern inverter welders and auto dark mask makes my welding better and usually ok. My old mig sometimes made a good weld on one section but only surface glued/laminated to the other. Migs do that more easily. Most people jab a weld rod to start when slight striking like a match allows contact and production of desired arc length.
PS. I have always used welding rods, says it on the packet. although most know what you mean if called a stick. With a Honda Eu2 and a small inverter welder you can easily weld at lower amps. My Eu2 runs both my Rohm tig/stick welder or the cheap chinese inverter welder. Often carry both genny and welder when going to stations.

I prefer to refer to it as " tack welding " rather than cock sh-t Frank. :)
Dave.

I have never been game enough for the oven trick, but thought that a light going over with the MAP gas torch should suffice. I don't get it too hot, but find it enables an immediate strike on a new rod.

I was given hundreds of rods by my MIG mate so I don't try to use old 3/4 gone rods either. New one every job.
I am getting better in that I am now able to do a continuous weld for at least 40MM.

BTW be careful with the helmet and buy a flip up with automatic darkening.
53 years ago when I was 19 , I attempted to weld a crossmember using wrong amps with a manual helmet.

In the course of striking, striking, striking I managed to get serious flash burns to my eyes, 6 days before my wedding. I was not popular but luckily recovered somewhat for the photos.

on the other hand, there are some welders like myself who used to throw our rods into a bucket of water to get wet.
yep cellulose rods for first root pass, once they dry out I stop and throw it out and change to a new wet one.
I used to weld a lot of pressure plate.
Now mig and submerged arc has changed everything.

Welding is like painting the more preparation you do the better the end result, thoroughly clean the weld areas & a bit beyond, remove ALL contamination, you can warm the job & the rods if you like, the actual welding doesn’t take to long,

Hi Graeme,
Thanks for your advice and comments. I have concerns about your advice to heat the joint before welding given that there are plastic bushes in the tubular section. Some members have said that there is too much splatter from gasless mig welding; so I am interested in your comments.

By the way I did get in a professional welder but that was expensive for a 5 minute job. Of course you are paying for his travel time, cost of equipment, etc. I fully understand that.

I would still like to get my own welder and practice before I need to some serious welding. So should I be looking at a 10A or a 15A mig welder?
Thanks
Glenn