Latest Ford Ranger Dual Cab.

G/Day Stephen

To many sold( look at the sales figures), to it to be a major issue just got to know what your doing when changing oil. Berrima Diesel?? Pfffft.

Cheers Axle

Hi Gbc,

Thats encouraging signs for reliability. , I'm hoping she has a good run worked hard enough to get it ..LOL

Cheers..

Lucky you, GBC. My 3.2 BT50 (a Ranger with a Mazda skin) blew a piston due to a faulty injector at 120k - 20k and 2 years out of factory warranty. Mazda were great, if a bit slow, but they accepted liability and gave me a new engine FOC.

I've thought about asking how they primed the oil pump on the new engine, but have been waiting to ask them at the 1000km service which has been slow in coming with Covid restrictions. 300km in 5 weeks!

Frank P
I haven't worked on one but understand the constant pressure oil pump. If the sump is slightly pressurized with new oil in sump, having the filter off the side will allow fresh oil to be forced through the pump and prime the pump and primary gallery. When it flows out of oil filter chamber and filter replaced, all should work. If and when I meet someone with the problem that is what I would do. Bursts from a Normal 4wd tyre compressor should suffice. To do that the cam cover breather hose to turbo could be used to administer the gentle airflow to the sump via cam cover.

I haven't heard of that method, RMD, but it makes sense.

I've heard of grossly over filling the sump and wait, of back filling from the oil pressure sensor, of putting the vehicle at extreme angles depending on the mechanic's theory, but none have worked.

When I get the service done I'll ask "the man".

Cheers.

I can't think of any other way which will make oil positively flow through the pump and fill it completely prior to starting.

Here is how they get oil pressure when it will not pump oil

This is how they do it

And here was me thinking they had fixed it in production.

20 litres for a 9 litre oil change - that's going to bump up the cost, especially if it has to be done every change.

As for the dealer saying warranty voided by choosing a non-dealer service, some education required there. Under Aus consumer law, manufacturer's warranty is not voided if service is done by a licensed mechanic, though if you have a problem outside of warranty you might not get much sympathy from the manufacturer or its service network.

Provided genuine parts are used, you would not have any issues with warranty provided a qualified technician has done the work

Genuine parts do not have to be used - as long as they are of a suitable quality - all to be determined in court - but genuine parts do not have to be used for warranty to be still valid.

Now if you had a lubrication failure due to a faulty aftermarket oil filter - that is different but if the lubrication failure was due to a oil pump failure but an after market oil filter was fitted then warranty still applies.

The only issue with no oil pressure is because NO OIL being pumped, irrespective of the quality of or genuine filter. It is happening with any filter because of it is a pump displacement issue. The pump vane recede and don't want to come out to the edge of the pump inner profile. The hotter you have the oil when you change it the more likely it is to completely drain from the pump because the drained oil is sucking the oil backwards from the gallery and reversing the flow in the pump and pulling the vanes inward. I suspect changing cooler or cold it most likely won't happen. Grossly overfilling seems to me a dumb idea to try and get gravity pressure of oil to seep into the pump has to work to some degree. I haven't tried as mentioned elsewhere, but even someone forcing mouth pressure air into the cam cover pipe which goes to the turbo inlet may even work enough, ie, take it off the turbo and blow towards to engine with some pressure has to exhaust oil up the sump strainer, through the pump and into the gallery to oil filter side. If not slight hose air pressure. No overfilling and draining etc, and more oil can be moved through to the oil filter housing, If a drop spills out you know the pump is full. A stupid design of pump to claim small degree of efficiency by running the pump at a SET pressure and no more than that, instead of a relief valve system to control pressure over. If using thinner oils like 5w something, then it the oil WILL be thinner anyway and exacerbate the problem. Doing something positive means the engine doesn't run with no pressure until detected and stopped.

Because of this style of pump, IF you remove the filter housing and filter prior to oil drain and it is therefore vented to atmosphere, when the sump is then drained there is nothing stopping the oil from creating maximum reverse flow and pressure differential, so it will evacuate the pump. The pump isn't a gear type or trochoid type which tends to hold oil. With a Ford Mazda engine it is like a reverse enema.

Is there a drain and filter removal protocol which states which to do first to avoid the issue?

I’ve done about 7 oil changes in my Ranger, I just get everything ready (access to filter, remove bash plates etc), then I undo sump plug and drain oil. While that is happening I remove the oil filter and install the new one (I don’t pre-fill it). Once the oil has pretty much fully drained out, less than 10 minutes , I put the sump plug back in, fill it with oil then start it up. Oil light always goes off in a few seconds. Engine is normally cool/ old when I do it, have done it on a warm motor with no difference.

No different to any of my other cars!!!

Nick B
The Rangers I have seen have an element filter in a reusable can, which is screwed down, onto and over the filter. ie. open side of can downward. If yours is the same as others how can you pre fill it anyway. Aren't they all unfilled, ie, not prefillable?
PS, there may be some which are different, Some makers do change filter setups mid cycle.

You are correct, I was more referring to overfilling it.

Yeah thanks Gazz, She is off for a decent run next week towing the boat, so will see how it performs


Axle.

Get her to change the auto trans oil every 50k mate. Cheap insurance. Our mechanic puts a bottle of Lucas transmission fix in all our auto fleet Ute boxes no matter the brand when he does them. The difference is noticeable. Very smooth shifting.

Gbc...Gazz

What do you think of what Berrima Diesel are on about? I'm only asking as you both run that engine.


Cheers Axle

No idea - We have 3 in the fleet. Our mobile mechanic services them no problem. There is a certain amount of time you have to change and refill the oil or the pump runs dry and needs a reprime but it isn't any sort of fault or issue and every mechanic in the world knows about it.

Isuzu all good except for busted CV's and cracked inner guards .

Haven't heard about the CV's for a while now but I doubt that I will ever get that happening as mine is for towing the van.

Same can be said about the cracked guards but the last couple I read about it seems that Isuzu have now identified it as a problem and covering them on warranty.

Axle housing failure has been out there as well!, But their not on their own.



Cheers

You can add factory roof rails leaking on the flash models and the famous dmax and Colorado driveline clunk - all brands have their issues.

No warranty because that's not a genuine bull bar or the suspension has been changed that's why the guards cracked .
I know a panel Shop that has fixed a couple , its a huge job lots of $$$$ and the replacement parts are the same as the faulty ones but that's all good because you have a Truck motor .

Thanks Rocco, Yes she has been over the moon, Ive only had one new car as well up to date, maybe next year!.. wife reckons ive said that for the last ten yrs..lol.


Cheers Axle.

G/Day Ron

We all know your opinion of Fords , your entitled to that, but the question, ...Is there any vehicle in the world that you wouldn't criticise other than the things parked in your own garage??


Cheers Axle,

Axle,
I think you are missing the point being made. All vehicles have problems, they are mechanical, as mentioned Ford, or rather Fraud, in many cases, do make and fit inferior components when compared to others. Some have impeccable runs out of their vehicles, while others hardly own it and it is in the workshop trying to get warranty most of the time. Just because they are popular doesn't necessarily mean they are tops. What I own I accept there is some shortcomings but when compared to Holden and Ford there is no contest. I see the Ford twin Turbo small engine with 10 speeds. Great complexity which is unnecessary and it has to have 10 speeds to match the engine and vehicle weight. Perhaps Ford will make a 1500cc engine and fit a 15 speed auto to it. As it is the small Ford diesel has to be highly boosted and fuel pressure high to extract the required power, ie, highly stressed. 3.2 litre much more relaxed though and should last a long time. I too wold never buy a Ford or Holden for the reasons Ron stated.

When you spoke of "very little rattle" do you mean diesel knock or a rattle. They are a different concept. No diesel knock in the dashboard but you may have a rattle. he lessening of diesel knock is usually because of pilot injection with multiple injections each cycle, just no one big injection and uncontrolled burn amount like conventional diesels do.

ALL new vehicles should bevery nice to drive, if not the millions of $$$$'s spent on R&D would be negated. It is the reliability and handling and service integrity, AFTER a period of time has elapsed which is the real indicator of a vehicle, no matter who produces it.

G/Day RMD.

I'm well aware of all the points been made., Your long winded composition as usual means bugger all really except the fact you don't like Holden or Ford. I myself have always been in favour of Ford over Holden and have rebuilt a number of fords over the years at very reasonable cost( dont know what Rons issue is with part costs) and have done many hundreds of thousands of reliable ks in them.

Thats the Past , The current crop of Fords is in another world, and the competition between all manufactures is pretty fierce, re warranties service etc.

Reliability , service integerity after a period of time has elapsed is the real indicator of a vehicle no matter who produces it.....???????????? So that means they all could be good, Or is there a standout? Pot luck or what?, Name something, maybe your not game


Cheers Axle.

Axle.
You again missed the meaning presented. TheyALL could be good but aren’t. Reliability, service integrity and warranty is an indicator and varies with the makes spoken of here. They All should be similar, but are not. Zachary what Ron was meaning too. For the numbers sold, Ford and Holden don’t rate highly given the number of problems. Toyota, big seller, far less % and Isuzu too for their far smaller sales. Everyone knows this but can’t bring themselves to say it. Regarding price of service. Example, A while back I priced air, fuel and oil filter for an Isuzu 4JJ1. Same at Oldhen for Colorado was $2 more than DOUBLE the price.

You’ll find the 10 speed is trickle down tech from the F150 and Mustang - as was the 6 speed.

The stats drawn up by several independent bodies show that the Ford Ranger has a 12% worse depreciation rate than the Hilux over 5 years.

Couple that with a dearer initial purchase price for the Ranger, add in more expensive parts for the Ranger, add in a higher level of reliability issues for the Ranger (EGR's splitting, fire issues, injector seal problems, 6R80 autos giving problems, including total failures - leading to a whole new transmission molded lead frame ) - plus a company known for constantly looking for cheaper ways of producing components (plastic components instead of metal, smaller components giving shorter lifespan) - and you end up with a vehicle that trails the Hilux on many points.

The only reason the Ranger has garnered a lot of sales in the last 7 years is because they chase the fleet and council tenders, and because the Ranger appeals to many private buyers with it's softer feel, and more appealing road manners, for "general-run-around" work.

But when it comes to the down-in-the-dirt stuff, the Ranger isn't cutting it on the likes of minesites and in the hands of remote-region contractors, who aren't known to be kind to vehicles.

Probably 80% of Rangers sold, rarely see a dirt road, let alone do substantial amounts of 4WD-ing.
They're a city tradie pose machine, Mums taxi to run the kids to school, and to go for weekend jaunts on bitumen to the country, to pretend they're really roughing it.

The councils trade them in every two to three years, with less than 80,000kms on the clock, so they never have the long-ownership cost experience.
The miners have tried them, and I've seen the Rangers that come back, in the auction yards, along with the blown motors on pallets.

They are too "gimmicky" in the electronics and electrics depts, and plenty of Ranger owners will gripe about the constant electrical glitches with them - then tell you they've had a wonderful run out of their Ranger - over about 12 mths of ownership!

It's interesting to see how Ranger sales have crashed to 2500 units for the month of May just gone, while Hilux has still kept up it's 4000-plus sales for May.

Ranger went well for the first 4 mths of this year, but the sales levels show that when an economic crunch such as the covid virus hits, Ranger sales are the first to be hit, because they're so reliant on fleet/hire sales, and private sales.
But the miners are still buying Hiluxes by the truckload, and obviously Hilux private sales have kept up to pre-virus levels.

Cheers, Ron.

What a load of crap. Hilux is so bad that this year Toyota took back our 2015 and 2016 fleet models (all out of warranty) and gave us brand new ones - for free! That is how bad they are. We had to prove in court that we had spent more money in down time and lost income than what the car were worth, which we easily did. That is how bad our last 5 years have been trying to run a company with those vehicles in it.
Toyota hilux is a Master lesson in marketing. And they have you hook line and sinker.
Meanwhile we have kept our 2012/13/14 rangers going past trade in date because they are still behaving like new cars. All bashed around the country by people who don’t own them.
A lead frame assembly is a simple $10 plastic rack which were changed years ago on any models which needed it. It is a one hour job. My PX was done 5 years ago during a service. As were the the px2’s for heat shields on the DPF’s and the px3’s currently with the 10 speed auto pump. Ford are fixing problems off their own bat. Toyota has to be taken to court to even acknowledge a problem. And there is a much bigger class action coming for them.
Our 2020 hilux’s, on their very first service, we show up and there they are, revving their tits off, trying to burn out the dpfs - again - after Toyota told us blind that they had a new system and it was all good. They will die before they admit that they built a pup and scare off what the marketing department built.
The reason Ford is now more expensive (their price hasn’t changed) is because anyone with brains bought them and now Toyota has been forced to drop the price of Hilux. You can thank a Ranger driver for that. (Ranger 4x4 outsold hilux 4x4 7 months out of 12 last year - no other competitor has ever come close). The reason hilux has better resale is brainwashed idiots who will pay money for a flogged our piece of crap and that’s why we buy them at work. I can thank people like you for that.

Hi Gbc,

Good to hear genuine facts, in relation to a companys experience with the above mentioned vehicles


Good on you for putting that up, But there's those that always want to argue that your wrong and their right.

This forum hasn't changed at all in 20yrs lol.

Cheers Axle.

More owner's reviews, incidentally from the same site RonN chose to use - the hilux rates lower than the Ranger! Anyone can cherry pick links and stats....

https://www.productreview.com.au/listings/toyota-hilux-mk8-i-2015-present

I also find it very interesting that the majority of the 5 star reviews are all written similarly, and more importantly they have repeated the mistake of calling it a 3.0L engine rather than the 2.8 - interesting.