Lift kit torsion bar

Thanks mate. Originally i didnt want a lift but last trip out bush we had to stop and turn around as the terrain got way to rough for atock height. M looking at ether dobinsons or billsteins kit (i heard mixed reviews on old man emu/ARB and thy make em in china now)

Will a body lift allow for bigger tyres or only suspension lft?

And IFS? i that what mine is? (Torsion bar etc). I definitely dont want to put any stress on the cvs i want to make it as reliable as possible

ARB have a new factory in Thailand but can't see them spending millions setting it up just to sell dodgy gear and loose customers.

Yeah torsion bar my error I'm in the habbit of calling it all IFS.

I would get a price for body blocks fitted I think it may be a big job and not cheap they will help with room for tyres. Dobinsons will be able to offer good advice and a solution to suit what your after the might recommend upgrading the torsion bars with the shocks and rear springs that may be all you need..

Now researching IFS lifts im rethinking the whole thing. Yeh I got an offer for 2k to get ARB shocks and springs and just adjust torsion bar...decent price, But if its just gonna break in 12 months wtf

If Damian's suspension has a droop limit bracket/system, most do, then longer shocks will not be able to be used or of any use either. A longer shock has to be able to compress to the upper limit, ie, closed up, and so a longer shock would bottom internally and cause damage on full compression. All Damian need is his suspension to operate higher than before, he and the fitting person should ensure the normal suspension ride height still allows for 1/3 of total possible travel to be had for droop ability. Failing to do so means over rough ground or bumps the wheel WILL become airborne, unable to touch the ground and loss of some control will result.

Steve, Not sure why Bilstein won't do the job, I fitted them all round to my Dmax and they transformed the handling, ride ,stability and braking ability over the 5000km old OE shocks which were ineffective from NEW.
PS, King pin angle? Do you mean the caster angle? as it is a basic stability requirement to have them near correct. The actual Kingpin angle is fixed and cannot be altered in relation to the axle stub.

hey mate i just wanted in general 2 inches lifted...not on top of what i have. i assumed mines all stock ATM. i just want a small lift for some ground clearance.

if i can adjust the torsion bar...upgrade to bilstein or OME shocks and maybe add bigger tyres..seems like the way to go? as long as its reliable... i heard changing angles and adding spacers etc is not smart

a mechanic with a good rep offered 2k for OME suspension upgrade with the torsion adjustment..and apparently this comes with warranty. but he hasnt actually had a look at my car, just over the phone.
im happy to post some pics

thanks mate ill see what it is in the morning, ill take a look under the car...so its not a huge job to adjust the torsion bar

sorry mate i see what u mean

ill haveto measure it in the morning, though i plan on putting 50L esky and drawers in the ute and a freezer in the cab so ill see the sagg after that

in that case...by that time if i just get it back to stock height...im sure thatd be enough? therefore i can keep the original uni angles and all that?

Actually id be happy to just fix the sag on the front and just leave the back.
Could i just wind the torsion bar to get stock height and leave the rear suspension and everything else alone?

But 95% of those would be solid axle 4x4s right? From what im reading IFS systems just arent designed to be lifted without making things complicated

No - most modern 4wds are now IFS and there are kits for most that work fine providing around 45mm lift when first fitted.

As said - dont make this harder than it needs to be. There is nothing special about the IFS on your car - get the standard torsion bars wound up within standard adjustments and see how you go. If not then happy go a see an reputable aftermarket suspension provider and discuss your further requirements.

Damian
You first have to determine how far your vehicle front suspension has sagged/dropped/sunk to know where you are starting from. I mentioned the small bump rubber gap.
Any IFS system, when sunk will alter the alignment and if raised it will again alter the alignment. If yours has progressively sunk down and alignment has been adjusted then it is in balance but lower.
If out of whack at the moment, simply raising by tensioning the bars more will restore the alignment. Above that level the alignment will require adjusting.

You may not need to spend thousands of $$$$'s on a kit, simply some corrective measures may suffice. You can get someone to fit a kit but it may waste some money too as it won't achieve much over a sensible attention to what is deficient at the moment. All places simply want to fit their "kit" and get rid of you for a monetary exchange.
It is your choice of course, and it is hard to decide if unsure of advice, so take your time in decision making.

Almost every dual cab Ute since the mid 90’s has IFS front suspension (excluding Hilux, new cruiser Ute, defender, maybe more). Even most wagons are the same (excluding patrol, cruiser, jeeps to name a few). 2” lifts have proven themselves to be very reliable over the last few decades, no need for an engineering degree!!!!

Probably best to stay away from the cheap eBay kits, people seem to get mixed results and warranty becomes a nightmare. I have found it much easier to get someone to supply and install the lot as opposed to saving money and buying online and getting someone to install it. I did this and had a front strut fail, the part was replaced no questions asked but I still needed to pay for labour and I had to do all the running around and organising.

Right and left sides are the same
Rear - 57cm
Front - 50.5cm


Is that the torsion bar?

Looks like the steering. The torsion bars are about 1.2m long and the adjuster should be back under the floor near the gearbox.
17mm nut.
Worth measuring the adjusting bolt with a ruler before you start.

thanks. my bad. ill deffs look at heaps of videos before i do it.
so it seems like the front has sagged by 7cm!? god dam

Damian
What makes you think the front has sunk by 70mm????
ALL ute/commercial variants of most makes all have the rear higher than the front even when new. You probably cannot determine the amount by measuring the bodywork at the rear and the front of the sills. It isn't a car and never will be.
Perhaps research the vehicle suspension system specs to see what the front bump rubber clearance should be/was when new. A 2011 Dmax is 29mm gap there just for example. A Mitsubishi dealer should have those specs or an online workshop manual. It seems the Delica runs almost the same suspension so that is a source of what is real.

Your suspension uses a larger upper ball joint, as that is required to take the vehicle weight via the torsion bars and upper arm to the stub axle assembly.ie , holds the wheel down so the vehicle is held up.
I am not sure looking at videos will help much, I know they are popular but they are a bit like 4wd magazines. Having a knowledge of the suspension layout through reading and inspecting workshop manuals related to the issue will assist in understanding with what mods you may you want.
Still factor in good shocks though, because they allow the control of any mod, ride height, increased mass and assist in ensuring the life of wheel bearings, ball joints, suspension bushes tyres and steering.
You said in your opening line,"different shops say different things", because almost all of them are not mechanics and have little understanding of the concepts they sell, simply sales staff. Only a few know what they are doing. It is about sales, not you at all. The only reason they get it right is if it is fitted correctly and the unseen engineers who gathered together the items for the so called "product" actually know something. Even some of those have been found incorrect.

From the factory it should have been 530mm, so sagged 30mm.
Rear should be 620mm unladen, so its down 50mm too.

So you could easily crank the front back up the 30mm to stock height or even up to 80mm with no ill effects. All it will cost you is some time under the car and a wheel alignment would be a good idea.

I'd probably only go 50mm at the front if you aren't putting new springs in the back as it might look a bit saggy in the bum end.

Hoyks.
Where are those measurements applied to? Damian would possibly like to know, he is unsure of a few things so from where to where will assist him.

From the centre of the hub to the wheel arch.

i was looking for these measurements...their not even in manual unfortunately. appreciate it mate

It might be in the workshop manual somewhere, I got it from the info that the RTA has on all vehicles so Mr Plod knows if your wheels are wrong or you have changed the suspension to outside the approved limits.

https://myrta.com/rvd/

Just of interest my Delica is 530 mm too and I run 31" tyres.
IMO that's fine for this type of vehical.

Have a look at this video, though you wont' need to re-index the torsion bars but it gives you an idea of what's involved.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_D1MJx7Mhs

Steve

i decided ill wait to get my esky and toolbox put in, then do the lift.
Im thinking 80cm front and 90cm in the back? By adjusting torsion bar and replacing (or adding?) all springs...
Once i put in the toolbox and esky its gonna sag even more so would this height be possible at that stage? Maybe ill go 70 front and 80cm back, still way better than what i got