Disappearing Clutch

It isn't the clutch. It can only be the Master / Slave with air in it.
Try and follow this.
IF the primary Port in the Master (small hole approx 1mm dia) is gunged or restricted AND you let the clutch out quickly, the fluid cannot return to Master quick enough, and air is drawn into the slave or master, most likely master. Then it compresses and no clutch actuation. If drawn into Master past rear cup it will then possibly bleed itself and action will return. If this is happening, then as you check the reservoir Cap seal, you may hear a slight puff/sigh as built up air pressure escapes. Has to be very quiet to hear it.

Make sure the small primary port, forward most hole is clean/ed. I did a mcycle one recently and used a nylon wire brush bristle. DoNot Press clutch while cleaning bristle is in the hole. It will damage the primary seal cup. Hope you solve it.
PS you may need to first of all, wash out the Master reservoir if it is dirty. If quite dirty then servicing hasn't been done properly or at all.

Sounds like air bleed clutch see how it goes before pulling everything else apart.

Just wondering how many k's on speedo when clutch was replaced not a very old vehicle.

Has a split in it.

Some good advice on bleeding the Ranger/Mazda clutch hydraulics in the video below.
If you carry out a proper air-removing bleed as shown in the video, and the clutch pedal still goes to the floor on a regular basis, then I'd suggest your clutch master cylinder is buggered, and the main rubber cup is worn and collapsing, and letting fluid past it.

Cheers, Ron.

Thanks for the responce guys, but im pretty confident its that damper in the clutch line which is straight off the pedal right behind the motor on the firewall. must have only been a small crack/split but got bigger yesterday id say due to the fact ended up with no clutch at all as its pissing out from this part which was easily picked up after removing the engine cover. Got a tow home, now just the wait for the part. Thx again.