Tuesday, Feb 12, 2019 at 13:48
Jim, I’ve just come across your post as a consequence of receiving the General Newsletter 482. So belatedly, I will describe my experiences and reflections relating to the business of APY Lands permits. I am unlikely to provide anything particularly new, but I will possibly complement the picture (puzzle?) provided by other members.
We planned to cross the Lands from the WA border (from Pipalyatjara) to Indulkana following a Gunbarrel crossing in August of last year (2018). I applied for our permit on 1 May 2018 seeking permission to visit several art centres in the Lands. I received quite a prompt email reply on 4 May from the Permits Officers stating (quote) “your permit needs to get approval at the next Executive Board meeting on the 23 May.”
I followed up on 3 June with an email to the Permits Officer asking (quote) “if you have any news from the Executive meeting on 23 May 2018 regarding our application for a permit to visit the Arts Centres in the APY Lands later this year.”
Again I received a very prompt reply (4 June) from the Permits Officer stating (quote) “I have just been sorting through the Permits that have just come back from the meeting. I am sorry your application has not been approved so sorry…… The permits at this stage are mainly for people that work in the APY Lands or visiting a family member here or a contractor.”
Our experience with Ngaanyatjarra Council was a significant contrast to that with APY Executive. In April 2018, we applied for a permit to cross from
Warburton to Wingellina, explaining that we would have just exited the Gunbarrel and would be applying for a permit to visit APY Land art centres. We also provided an assurance that, while travelling from
Warburton to Wingellina, we would not enter any communities along this route e.g. Jamieson, Blackstone, Wingellina. We received our permit two days later (a pity that subsequently we were not able to use it, following our inability to receive a permit from APY Executive).
So in the end we did the very traditional and less exciting thing: after exiting the Gunbarrel, we travelled the
Great Central Road to
Yulara.
While we were out and about last year (2018), we came across some interesting and contrasting attitudes and practices by other travellers relating to the permit system and access to Aboriginal Lands. I will provide three examples.
Example one: just prior to our commencing the Gunbarrel, and while at
Carnegie Station, we encountered a gentleman who chose not to apply for permits to access Aboriginal Lands. His justification was that, provided he did not invade the privacy of Aboriginal people by entering their communities, there was no issue with him sticking to traversing roads. He also argued that the permit system is a bureaucratic construct and at grass roots community level, Aboriginal people are not that bothered by respectful visitation.
Example two: while on the Gunbarrel, we bumped into a couple who described how they had set out on the
Eagle Highway to visit the
Warri site, but encountered the ‘no entry – Aboriginal Land’ sign. After some deliberation, which included a consideration of the fact that they could probably travel the road without detection, they decided not to proceed to the
Warri site out of what they described as a respect for the wishes of Aboriginal people.
Example three: after exiting the Gunbarrel, we camped at Warakurna where we camped next to three families who were all related to each other. One of the families was from Queensland, another from
Perth and the third family was from Victoria. Each family had travelled separately to Warakurna, which was their agreed meeting place prior to continuing on together on a joint family holiday.
The Victorian family accessed Warakurna by transiting the APY Lands. They chose not to apply for a Permit. They had determined that if they were stopped and asked for a permit, they would offer to pay the required permit fee. Their expectation seemed to be that their money would be accepted and that they would be allowed to proceed without any consequences (incidentally, they were not asked to present a permit).
I have been following the discussion (by Connie and Mick) on the Beadell Tours website about access to APY Lands permits. Some people have speculated on whether Richard King’s departure as General Manager will result in greater access to permits (off all types, including transit permits). I did some work in the APY Lands in the late 1990s and am aware that as far back as that time there was concern in the Lands about the impact on communities of the high level of visitation from all sources (in fact, my memory is that Umuwa was established as an administrative centre and ‘visitation buffer’ to reduce this impact).
It is pure speculation on my part by I suspect that Richard may have simply been taking a harder line on a long standing policy. His departure may make it easier for tour groups to get permits, but I suspect that general travellers like ourselves will still be up against it. But I repeat – that’s pure speculation in my part.
Here endeth this ‘war and peace’ saga!
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Follow Up By: Baz - The Landy - Tuesday, Feb 12, 2019 at 14:35
Tuesday, Feb 12, 2019 at 14:35
A great update, thanks Ray...
As you highlighted there are people who will run the risk and not seek a permit, but agree or disagree with the system, it is what it is...
Cheers, Baz - The Landy
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Follow Up By: Member - JIM F4 - Tuesday, Feb 12, 2019 at 15:15
Tuesday, Feb 12, 2019 at 15:15
Ray, great article, The Thread has certainly had some interesting replies. We dont leave until June, so will keep the
forum updated when possible. ps We did a trip with the Beadells in 2015 and I follow their newsletters. I have had a reply from
Iwantja Arts at Indulkana stating that the art centre is not open at this stage for visits !! Waiting on 3 more art centres, Amata,Fregon & Kalka!!
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Follow Up By: Member - Ray S - Tuesday, Feb 12, 2019 at 18:16
Tuesday, Feb 12, 2019 at 18:16
All the very best with sorting out visits to the remaining arts centres, Jim. Not sure if this will be your first trip out through that country (maybe you got to go with Connie and Mick?). I was truly fortunate to do it for work twice back in 1998 - just imagine, I was getting paid to enjoy the magnificent
views of the Mann and Musgrave Ranges. The trouble is I wasn't aware at that time of the significance of Len Beadell to that country: I would certainly view the road very differently if I could actually get to drive it now.
I am a bit envious that you have had the opportunity to travel with Connie and Mick. We (my wife Verity and I) have looked with great interest at their trips, but it hasn't quite happened for us yet.
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