BT50 malfunction lights

Bob, do you have a transmission oil cooler fitted? These transmissions don't like getting hot - and hauling 'vans for extended periods at highway speeds is the way to get them overheated.

Your auto transmission is the Ford-built (in the U.S.) 6R80 model, essentially the same unit as fitted to the Ford Ranger and the American Ford F-150.
These are a ZF transmission, built under licence by Ford and containing some Ford design alterations, to suit Ford requirements.

These trannies utilise electronic solenoids to move the spool valves, which selects the appropriate gear at the appropriate time (with input from the ECU and a range of sensors, of course).

The recommended maximum operating temperature of these transmissions, by many transmission rebuilders, is 200 deg F, or 93 deg C.

The simple reason for this temperature limit is because the thermoplastics in the solenoids start to soften after extended periods above this temperature - and they then fail to operate correctly, or they report faults to the microprocessor.

These electronic solenoids are also prone to develop problems when clutch debris or tiny pieces of metal from general wear start to get into their moving components.

As a result, they can be considered "finicky" devices that rely on modest operating temperature and very clean oil, to function properly.

All the manufacturers are heading towards sealed transmissions and either "lifetime" lubricant fills, or long distances between any recommended lubricant changes.

It is advisable that these transmissions have regular oil changes when they are being used fairly constantly for heavy towing.

There's a American lad, a transmission expert, who has a good video on these transmissions (as fitted to the F-150) - and it's worth just looking at this video to see what he has to say about them.

At about 4.00 mins into the video, he's on to the moulded leadframe.

This moulded leadframe also contains the output shaft speed sensor - which has been giving trouble (causing sudden downshifts to 1st gear from 5th or 6th gear, with resultant possible loss of control).

Mazda issued a recall for the output shaft speed sensor problem - but it only affected Mazda BT-50's built between Oct 2011 to Dec 2012.

Your ute has apparently had the sensor problem fixed, thanks to a later, improved design of moulded leadframe.

However, I believe the issue of transmission high operating temperature is still one that can cause problems with the 6R80 transmission.

https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recall/mazda-australia-pty-ltd-mazda-bt-50-0

Cheers, Ron.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ME93NO9fGE

Yes my Ute got a new lead frame assembly under warranty. In and out in a morning. Mine is a 2013 ranger.

Talking to an owner a few weeks ago that had a new transmission at 6,000K on a Ranger, he said the same thing about temps.......fitted a cooler and the temps dropped a lot while towing...in fact he said its hard to get the temps to go up anywhere near the "old" temps.
Should be a mandatory fitment from new ..

Besides the transmission which appears to be not very fit for purpose, if the faults disappear when van is not on and before any significant heat has developed in the transmission fluid, I would be looking for faults in the trailer plug wiring.

"Van off Warning lamps go out"
That doesn't indicate a transmission fault unless time and heat related,so:
Since the trailer plug is the thing which is more prone to faults because it is flapping about at the rear of the vehicle I would be checking it and the integrity of the 7 core lead.

I realise yours is a BT50 and mine is a DMax but.....

Odd lights coming on in a Dmax , usually traction control, is an indicator that the battery is on the way out. I know it sounds weird but it happened to me and was same as I read about. The battery still had plenty of power even to start the motor, maybe getting a bit slower but this light would come on sometimes. I was a bit skeptical at first when I read about it but it was as others had said. Changed the battery and all is good now. 2013 model and about 65000km on the clock.

Hooks, Little bit late in answering as I just got back from a trip.

I would join the newranger forum or the Australian Ford forum and ask the question there. New vehicles engines and gearboxes are very closely linked and what may appear to be a box problem could be coming from the engine ecu or as stated even low voltage problems. Things like a small split in a intercooler hose or intercooler it's self. I know an automatic transmission specialist and he said it is amazing how many times the problem comes from an engine sensor or fault.

With a lead harness problem it is normally accompanied by harsh gear changes.

I believe it maybe best to leave it with Mazda to sort out as it is easy to take the wrong path.

Hope they find it quickly.

.
Geeez, I'm glad I drive an 'older' vehicle. The only 'microprocessor' is in the beer fridge, and I keep a close eye on that. lol

Hi Ron,

We drove 81 kms today without the van on and this time unlike the previous times we could not get out of 2nd gear and 60km/hr. So the ute on its own is now functioning the same as will the van on. However at this slow sped it is easier to let traffic pass us when not towing.
I will let you all know what Mazda finds.

Bob.

Hi Bob, Can't help you with any fault finding, but I can pass on to you an experience a mate of mine has had with a Ranger. He owned the vehicle from new, and for the first few years, he was very happy with it. The he started to have similar on going problems with his transmission for over two years. He tows a 3.5 T van when on holiday, plus various equipment trailers as it is/was his work vehicle. It didn't matter if he was towing or not, vehicle would go into "limp" mode at the slightest sign of needing extra power. Tranny was rebuilt twice, once by Ford, and once by transmission specialist. Neither rebuild fixed the problem. The last 12 months he owned the vehicle, it was off the road for a total of 8 months. After so much frustration and money not only in actual dollars spent, but in the loss of the vehicle for his business, he cut his losses and traded it in on a 200 Series LC.

Macca.

A powertrain warning light with a malfunction indicator light is often a split intercooler hose.

I also had the DSC lamp when my EGR valve sprang a leak.

You do need an OBD2 reader to get the code and then clear it though. I have a $15 ebay job and a $7 iPhone app that does the job.

Another thing to check is the wiring loom that runs across the front of the motor. The pressed metal timing chain cover can cut into the loom and cause shorts that create some random codes.
www.newranger.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=7667&p=104571

Any updates hooks ?

G'day Bob

Got your car sorted yet ?

If so what was the problem ?

Cheers

Gazz

I can't believe people pay $60,000 plus for a new 4WD dual cab, with all the bells and whistles - yet it can't effectively tow its rated load under Australian conditions - and you have to start buggering around, laying out thousands of dollars more in aftermarket cooling accessories - just to make the vehicle perform like it should perform, from the factory??

These people have been building vehicles for anywhere between 80 and 115 years - and yet they still treat their buyers like suckers - and still use them as a test bed??

I'd be outraged if I was forced to do that, after spending all that money - and I would consider the product, "not fit for purpose", as described under Consumer Law.

I'd expect to have to modify an older, used vehicle, that was suffering from age - but an almost-new $60,000 vehicle?? No way. This is bloody pathetic.

Cheers, Ron.

Hey. Just found out some very interesting info on the DSC on my BT50.
Up until the incident the DSC light was off and the car wheel alignment was perfect.
The apparent problem was causes when my right hand front wheel side swiped a concrete boulder and did some body damage to the guard and door (the panel damage is incidental).
After the damage and a lot of swearing for being so stupid, I drove off and noticed my wheel alignment was pulling to the right, ie the steering wheel was at about the 10 o'clock position when the car was going straight ahead. When my speed got to about 40km/h the DSC warning light came on continually. slowing to a stop and at any speed it remained on. Switched the engine off and restarted the warning light was out and came on again continually at ~40km/h.

My initial thought was I bent something (tie rod?).
I put the car on my hoist and inspected the steering. Nothing bent but noticed the RHS tie rod inner was a little sloppy, enough to want to replace it.
Got the new tie rod and installed it. Did a toe in/out wheel alignment. Its easy to do on the concrete with a BT as you can get a tape measurement behind and in front of the tyre. I picked a specific in line tyre groove reference to measure the front and rear. The vehicle specifications 0mm toe (makes it easy).
When the alignment was done I went for a short drive to settle the adjustments in and check my steering wheel alignment thinking I would remove the steering wheel nut and straighten the wheel.
The vehicle drive straight nut the steering wheel was still at 10 o'clock and the bloody DSC light came on again.

After a lot of research and thought, the main sensor controls for the DSC system are 1. the ABS sensors and 2. the STEERING WHEEL ANGLE SENSOR.

NOW to all readers of the article. Stop and think about this.
The DSC or Dynamic Stability Control is a process that looks at the steering angle and wheel speed (from the 4 wheels ABS sensors). The definition of "out of control" is an imbalance between these sensors.

In my case, the car was going straight ahead ie all wheel at the same speed but the steeling wheel was at 10 o'clock. Guess what, the computer system thought I was out of control.

Knowing this, the solution was easy.
The old way of doing a wheel alignment was adjust the toe in/out then remove the steering when and refit to the 12 o'clock position. WRONG WRONG WRONG

You need to set the steering wheel to 12 o'clock and adjust the toe angle to match the steering wheel.

Since I had already adjust the toe to 0 mm I loosed off the tie rods and shortened the RHS rod by a certain number of turns and increased the LHS rod by the same number of turns.
Go for a test drive to see if the steering wheel has straightened up. It took about 6 goes to get it right and you must also keep an eye on the toe angle (0mm).

The result was BT running dead straight with the specified 0 mm toe. The steering wheel was at 12 o'clock and NO BLOODY DSC warning light.

Not saying this is the only cause for the DSC warning light but if the vehicle is driving straight ahead and you have a steering wheel over to an angle (left or right), this will cause the DSC warning light to come on.

Good luck with it. Regards Hesso