Mitsubishi Challenger 2.5 Ltr Diesel

Hi Phil. Best idea would be to be nice to "wifey" or you might be walking everywhere. Good luck.

Go and ask your dealer nicely for a loan car. Since you'll be without it for a while it'd be fair enough.

Phil.
I would ask if the person doing the valve adjustment moved the crankshaft and camshaft to the next position by using a spanner/socket on the camshaft and not turned the crankshaft.

Doing that causes the larger dia cam related wheels to try and drive the smaller, ie half size crankshaft timing wheel.
To do that there has to be a large torque applied to the cam related wheels and therefore tries to stretch the toothed belt.
Because the mechanic has to have the engine stopped to do this, the cam tensioner IS NOT tensioned and so it becomes relatively easy to have a wheel move in relation to the belt.
I am utterly amazed the dealer has NO IDEA of the cause, they are just not admitting laibility and since it was working correctly beforehand and NOT after the adjustment, to me, it can only have been caused by a dumb mechanic who does not know much about what he is working on.
"DURR what way do we turn this boss"???

If it is a manual vehicle he may also have left it in gear as he tried to turn the cam and being in gear would make it even harder and more likely to force the belt over one tooth as it creates maximum slack in the belt.
One tooth might not have caused any internals to collide and create permanent damage, lucky in one way he didn't jump 2 teeth while performing his tricks otherwise it would have destroyed the valves at least.

Dealer destruction at it's finest.

The least they should be doing is to provide a loan car for the period and you should insist on a NEW belt being fitted to ensure integrity of the cam drive mechanism.

After it is repaired and running well say goodbye to that dealer for the safety of your vehicle.

I agree with RMD here. These so called 'service centres' managers will say anything to get the 'heat' off them. I'd be looking for someone else to do your servicing. And I don't mean Mitsubishi either.

the problem will most likely be the mechanic mucked up
an caused the problem
with electronics on engines today I would bet that if the vavle timing was out it would have brought up the eng check an there would be a noticeable
drivability concern especially on common rail engines
cheer mechpete

Phil
Seeing the head is already off and a head/valve check is to be done, I would insist on NEW valve stem seals be fitted.
If they simply remove the valves and then replace them they will have reseated them too. Possibly thevalves won't be in the same positions as original and the valve collet groove will "tear at" the fine seal lip and possibly damage each one of the 16 seals slightly, which means the seal will not be as good as it was before going to the dealer. Then it uses oil.

Also seeing the fuel inj lines have been removed it is common practice to replace ALL high pressure lines to ensure proper sealing.

Does the dealer now compensate you for then having a vehicle which doesn't have it's original integrity, ie, lasting a few hundred thousand km. Perhaps he will personally write a letter of surety of continued warranty at his cost, seeing he caused it.

Hi Phil
What RMD says is on the nail.
You now have a 30000km engine that has been through major trauma.

Insist that their most excellent mechanic does the rework with new seals and fuel lines. Hope he is good with a torque wrench as these need to be spot on.

Get a written extension on the warranty.

The dealer should give you free services for life haha???? but maybe you need to find a decent mechanic for the next time.
Cheers
Mike