Clutch Depresion Squeak - HZJ75 Troopy

It's normal not to have a return spring and the slave cylinder lets the pivot return and the thrust bearing just touches the plate fingers. This is generally where you will get a squeak or slight squeal. I pulled the boot back from the thrust fork and with an extended cotton bud just put a tiny amount of grease on the thrust fingers where the bearing pushes them. May have to use a mirror to see where. Fiddly but it worked and no squeak. Seems to happen after water crossings and you get a little rust on the clutch fingers. Worth a try.

I had a HJ61 for a long time.
The ball end of the slave cylinder pushrod was usually dry and it squaked when the clutch was depressed and eleased. Adding some teflon oil to it AND the fork pivot inside the bell housing, (use long thin plastic tube, biro inner will do it), and lube the pivot if dry.
I didn't like the release bearing running on the clutch diaphram fingers so I made a stopper bracket positioned so the bearing was held sightly away from them. Also added a small bungee cord to the fork arm. It pulled the arm slightly away from the fingers with the outer end of the fork resting on the stopper bracket. Then no undue wear or noise happened there at the clutch fingers.
It may require a slight adjustment sometimes to ensure the free release of the bearing which happens as the clutch plate thins with wear.

No internal spring to my knowledge.

I had a squeaky clutch in a hilux once. Turned out to be under the dash where the clutch pedal is hinged/swings from. A squirt of wd40 and all fixed. It was a bit worrying for awhile till I tracked it down.

Guys, I've just looked at this - finally!!!

...sorry I'm a single dad and I have my kids every weekend so it's impossible to work on my vehicle with young kids sticking screw drivers in my tires and their ears cause I'm working on my truck.

So this basically got so bad that I'd push the clutch in and people on the footpath would look sideways at my vehicle. The problem was the clutch fork pivot ball needed a bit of grease and a small amount has fixed the problem. Given it's a Landcruiser the pivot ball is accessible and this is a very quick and simple job.

Here's the steps you need to take:
1) Degrease and clean up the clutch slave cylinder and hydraulic line - in my case this took more time than all the other steps combined.
2) Crack both 12mm bolts on the slave cylinder.
3) Clamp the brake line and I get a roll on duct tape handy cause I'm going to tape the shaft to the cylinder so it doesn't push out of the cylinder.
4) Undo the two bolts on the slave cylinder and tape it up so the piston seals don't get damaged traveling too far forward in the cylinder where they don't normally travel and where there's probably corrosion or pop put.
5) Remove the rubber boot from the clutch fork and you should be able to see the pivot point if you pull the fork towards the rear of the vehicle.
6) I had a long brush (about 400mm) and put a little red grease (water and heat resistant) on it and transferred it to the contact point between the fork and the pivot. I only used about as much as you would use toothpaste on your tooth brush cause I'm paranoid about getting grease near my clutch.
7) Re-install the rubber boot.
8) Remove the duct tape and torque the slave cylinder back up.
9) Grease the contact point between the slave cylinder shaft and the clutch fork.
10) Road test.

In my case the noise was completely gone.

Thanks to the moderator's for unlocking this post so I could reply back to this - my apologies for the delay in getting to this.

I hope this post helps someone else in the future!!!