Fridge voltage setting

I was reading thread 382 on power consumption and saw some charts posted and thought 11.8 would be the best setting but it would be better if 10.7 was ok and didn't cause and damage to the batt it would give the fridge more running time. Also he will be looking at solar but that's not till later on next year some time sorry I probably should have mentioned that before.

Any of those three settings will cause damage if constantly going down that far...Unless he wants to buy a LiFePo4 which will handle that sort of use.

What charging method is he using now?

I was a little bit out with the numbers I just went off what I though he told me recently I looked them up there are 3 settings
1st = off 10.8v / on 11.8v
2nd = off 11.8v / on 12.8v
3rd = off 10.4v / on 11.4v
The manufacturer recommends 3rd setting which I expect would cause batt damage the 2nd setting looks like it would be the best option sorry about the error maybe goldfish syndrome setting in. Battery topped up on 240v charger before trips and car alternator when travelling on doing weekend camping trips for now.

OK.

Assuming it is a mains charger with some sort of float control. He can connect the charger and the fridge at the same time at home. This will keep the battery fully charged and the fridge cold. If it has freezer mode, run it as a freezer when on the mains charger.

For the weekend trips. He needs to work out how many amp hours the fridge will use and match a battery to that. Most portable fridges will use 25 to 30 amp hours per 24 hour day. So to run for two day weekends he really needs a 100AH battery. If he can top up from the car, good. Even just using jumper leads will help. If he has run the fridge in freezer mode all week before the weekend, that will help too.

So the questions to ask him. What is the power usage of the fridge. What is the size of the battery he has now. Can he run it in freezer mode prior to his trips. Is his mains charger a smart charger.

Thanks for the info he's got a 120 ah batt the fridge only draws around 1.5 amps and he will be running the fridge on 240v to cool it down the night before he goes away also has a smart charger thanks again.

No worries,

With those figures, he can go all weekend with out any issues.

Ask him if he has considered an inverter. A smart charger needs true sine wave (pure sine). No need to spend hundreds. The cheaper ones like Giandel works just as good. You can get a 600watt for well under $100.

Then if he needs to top up off the car, use the inverter to run the smart charger. Not counting petrol, it is about half to a third the cost of a dual battery kit and about a tenth the cost of a good quality brand name 120watt solar panel.

HI
The low voltage setting at low levels[10.8v] will do little to protect the battery
If taken down to that regularly most batterries will have a very short life
That level is mainly to protect the fridge motor/ control unit itself from low voltage damage

The 2nd figures 11.8Vto12.8V are more suitable for long battery life
They ensure that the battery is not over discharged & has a reasonable charge before the fridge is reconnected.

IF the fridge is supplied via longllight cables from the battery, voltage drop WILL cause SOC sensing problems

PeterQ

HI
Quote"Batt's posted:
Thanks for the info he's got a 120 ah batt the fridge only draws around 1.5 amps and he will be running the fridge on 240v to cool it down the night before he goes away also has a smart charger thanks again[end quote]

That is an average figure based on seldom met conditions in real life
& equates to 1.5 x24= 36Ahrs
In hot weather with warm loading, used as a FRIDGE that can
easily go up to more like 60Ahrs PLUS

PeterQ

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HI
For those who wsh to know what the current draw of their fridge actually is, simply divide the WATT rating by 12V

Then how long it runs for will depend on how it is used including:
Temp that the FRIDGE is operating In
[Anything over 25C means it WILL run longer & use more Amphrs over 24hrs than the 1.5 x24 hrs=36Ahrs the specs give]

Then the actual thermo setting will also determine how long it will run for,near freezing it will run a great deal longer

Iin deep freeze mode it may well run continiously

Then anything that you put will also cause it to run longer

If it is an upright type[not a chest type] the longer or more often the door is open will encrease the run time.[cold air spilling out, warm air has to be cooled]

Chest types are less affected by LID openings


PeterQ

[Quote]Ask him if he has considered an inverter. A smart charger needs true sine wave (pure sine). No need to spend hundreds. The cheaper ones like Giandel works just as good. You can get a 600watt for well under $100.

Then if he needs to top up off the car, use the inverter to run the smart charger. Not counting petrol, it is about half to a third the cost of a dual battery kit and about a tenth the cost of a good quality brand name 120watt solar panel [end quote]
Hi
Do you KNOW the risks with inverters & class1 devices??

[Quote]". My Engel says it draws 1.3 amps. Hardly a "seldom met conditions in real life"[end quote.]

I believe you will fing YOUR Engel actualy draws around 3.5<4Amps when actually running
.If it runs 50% of the time ,that 42<48Ahrs over 24hrs in real life conditions

PeterQ

It's a Techni ice fridge and I originally mixed up the low voltage setting controls with the dual zone fridge/freezer model he has the 45 ltr fridge or freezer model. In ideal conditions it might use around 18 Ahrs in a day I would have thought if he based it around 1/3 more say 24 Ahrs a day that should give him a big enough margin he also has an insulation bag. Thanks for the replies fellers and stop arguing I'm the one that usually does that lol cheers.

HI
Based on the specs



30L =4.0A+10% at 12v @ 33% duty cycle =<32Ahrs +10% per 24hrs


45L =4.3A+10% @12V @33%duty cycle=<34Ahrs +10% per 24hrs''


60L =4.5A+10% '@12V@33%duty cycle =<35.4Ahrs+10% per 24 hrs

PeterQ

Quote"I was reading thread 382 on power consumption and saw some charts posted and thought 11.8 would be the best setting but it would be better if 10.7 was ok and didn't cause and damage to the batt it would give the fridge more running time. Also he will be looking at solar but that's not till later on next year some time sorry I probably should have mentioned that before"[end quote]

HI
IF lead acid battery:
10.7v setting IS NOT OK ,it will lead to very short battery life, it is near dead flat!
Every time that happens the battery will have less capacity when recharged.
The 11.8V cutout is the lowest I would go for longer battery life, but even that will be giving the battery a lacing!!

PeterQ

No worries will use the 2nd setting and base the power consumption on the specs thanks all for you help

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