Castor correction plates
Submitted: Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 12:25
ThreadID:
10616
Views:
3782
Replies:
5
FollowUps:
5
This Thread has been Archived
Roachie
I've previously mentioned that I have a 4" front lift and 5" rear lift (but with a lot of weight it looks level) on my 2000 GU. I've also said that there was nothing done about castor correction etc with seemingly no ill-effect on steering, handling, shuddering etc.
However, there is an obviously noticeable angle on the front uni-joint because the front diff is angled quite a bit. So I've been wondering about fitting a set of these castor correction plates. Looking a photos of them, it is obvious that new holes have to be drilled through the brackets which are welded to the axle tube onto which the factory trailing (or is it "leading"??) arms are attched. It looks like the original rear hole is used for the plates, but a new hole quite close to the axle is needed.
Has anybody had any experience with this fitting (I think the 80 series cruiser is the same set-up)?
What bothers me is that (a) the hole is quite close to the axle tube, so it might be difficult to get an electric drill to get a large enough hole parallel through the 2 sides of each bracket & (b) on the driver's side, the diff pumpkin prevents drilling from that side, so the drilling would have to be done from the side near the disk brake rotor. I'm thinking that it probably requires the use of a right-angled air-powered drill.....
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Roachie
Reply By: emu(new member) - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 13:02
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 13:02
hi roachie .
there is another option available but might not give you as much caster as the plates.you can buy some bushes that adjust the caster on the front diff bye replacing the two bushes on each of the arms that run from the diff back to the body.there only about $120 for the four bushes.they come with decent instrutions but you will have to press out the original bushes and press the new ones in.famous for the saying
as dumb as an emu.
AnswerID:
47188
Follow Up By: Roachie - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 14:28
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 14:28
Emu,
Thanks for that; I was aware of these bushes, but understand they are only good for up to about a 2" lift. I've read that they come in 2 & 3 degree options, whilst the plates allow for 5 degrees of correction. I would guess that I would have to totally remove the arms and take them to an engineering
shop to have the bushes pressed out and new ones inserted......I don't think I could just do it with a mash hammer and a block of hardwood. Then again I might be able to make up some sort of make-shift press using a "U" shaped bit of steel channel and a G clamp.
However, in my case because of the 4" lift I reckon I should go for the plates anyway and be done with it.
Thanks,
Roachie
FollowupID:
309167
Reply By: 10 Para- Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 14:03
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 14:03
Roachie,
Had a sim prob with my Patrol and got a wobble around 90-100 it had been fitted with casters already so found out that there was a packing plate avalable for the engine and or transmission to relevel the diff and drive chain can't think what it was called but fixed the problem and was done by ARB give them a ring and they should know because the guy just took the plates oof the shelf in the store.
Regards
BrianGoing soon can't wait
AnswerID:
47200
Follow Up By: Roachie - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 14:30
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 14:30
Thanks Brian, will keep that in mind too.
I guess I should really go all out and take the truck to a
suspension specialist in
Adelaide and get them to sort the whole bloody lot out. Probably big $$$$ but may be worth it to save all the stuffing around.
Cheers,
Roachie
FollowupID:
309168
Reply By: 10 Para (Qld) - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 15:25
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 15:25
Roachie,
Just loked up the bill for those packers part number is GQGKO1 cost $32.00 and labour was $45.00 and they are gearbox packers made for the patrol.
Regards
BrianGoing soon can't wait
AnswerID:
47217
Follow Up By: Roachie - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 15:28
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 15:28
Thanks Brian....
FollowupID:
309177
Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 21:09
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 21:09
Roachie
I put a set of caster correction bushes in my cruiser. Made a big difference. Had to burn the old rubber bushes out and then press the steel sleve out under a press. Installation required the press again. With a 2" or 3" lift castor bushes are usually not required. I remember the GQ had a vibration in the front tail shaft and gear box spacers were used, not sure if the GU has same problem. Didn't have caster corection plates around when I did the Cruiser up. The plates seem to be a lot of trouble to fit . Don't forget to give us an up- date
Wayne Always Out'N About
AnswerID:
47257
Follow Up By: Roachie - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 23:38
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 23:38
Thanks Wayne....once I decide what to do, I'll post an update.
Roachie
FollowupID:
309267
Reply By: bob - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 23:12
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 23:12
Roachie,
I currently run a 2001 3.0 gu (no it hasnt blown up yet) with 2" lift (closer to 2 1/2") and was told I would need castor correction bushes. Didnt fit them and the vehicle is no different to drive. However Ive been told a few times that the general rule is you need one degree less per inch of lift ie 4" lift = 3 degree adjustment, 5" lift (YES PLEASE) = 4 degree adjustment. So you should be able to get away with 3 degree bushes for your 4" lift. Generally plates are used for 5 & 6" lifts.
Hope this is of some help
Bob
AnswerID:
47271
Follow Up By: Roachie - Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 23:40
Wednesday, Feb 18, 2004 at 23:40
Bob,
Glad to hear your 3ltr machine is going
well.
Thanks for the info about how many degrees per inch of lift. Sounds like 3degrees might be the go; so the bushes will be enough.
Cheers,
Roachie
FollowupID:
309268