Failed fuel pump on 105 series 1HZ diesel Landcruiser??

I had a pump fail on my 2003 turbo Troopy. Replacement pump was~$2500 minus exchange. My shop guys said uncle Tim you can pull a wrench as well as we can get to it [they are younger the me, Ha]. You may need some Toyota experienced advisor but the swap is not all that hard. No need to remove the radiator but you do need to take off the timing cover as the pump is gear driven [replace at least the timing chain tensioner while in there]. Working from a Troopy. Note the marks on the pump drive gears as that is the critical timing mark to match on the re-installation. Behind the pump between it and the engine there are very stiff rubber pads [two from memory] to get out [hardest part of the job]. The pump is bolted on the outside and on the engine side [where the rubbers were]. You need a short and long extension bar on you socket wrench as the spacing is to tight to get at the bolts in one go so add on the extension as you feed the socket in to the hidden bolts. Basically a simple bolt up operation. Don't tighten everything down until you set the timing [rotating/tilting the pump to the marks] be sure to get the timing marks right. Don't tighten the fuel lines up to tight [follow the torque specs on everything]. Plan on two days -one pump out, one pump in.

From the literature -Those Denso pumps are apparently not biodiesel friendly so stay away from it. I was tempted to try Bio until reading some articles.
Hope this helps
Abqaiq

I seem to recall hearing about a similar problem...... Have you checked www.lcool.org do a search there in the 100 series section.
Doesnt that model have an electric (solenoid) fuel cut off?
I would be suspecting there is a problem there as it is temp related as you say?
Hope you sort this out soon & keep us up to speed on developments :-)

funnily enough i was in broome last year when the same thing happened to us , couple of people said we needed a new pump but in the end it was a dirty connection situated on the passenger side of the engine bay , cleaned up the bits and then sealed it from moisture dirt etc.Hope this helps...

Been-Everywhereman,

But you have not been every where on the internet. If you had spent a brief time on the internet researching you present problem you would find that the issue is related to either the fuel cut solenoid or the emobiliser that sits on top of the fuel pump (based upon your description). There are simple ways around these problems if they occur. If you travel in remote areas, you should be aware of issues that are relevent to your particuliar vehicle and not post threads that are missleading because you don't understand. Even your simple Gregories manual details the checking process to eliminate this problem. Your fuel pump should be good for 300,000km's ...............but by all means hand over $4,500 for a pump rebuild!

Your mention of Broome RAC set an alarm bell off, I vaguely remembered some adverse comments on this forum about them
Check out thread 101375 and make up your own mind.
I've also heard similar comments from others I know particularly about their prices.

Disco.

Thanks to everybody's replies "even Jack".

The immobiliser was the problem.
This device totally covers the fuel solenoid and it is impossible to get to the power wire for the solenoid without removing the immobiliser.
The immobiliser has 2 shear bolts which are quite difficult to extract to be able to remove this device.
Once I removed the oil filter I could drill out the 2 shear bolts, remove the immobiliser and pick up and power the solenoid wire.
Bit of a pain....