Monday, Feb 04, 2013 at 09:26
Ross,
Whilst there may
well be 0.5v drop in the alternator/battery cable at high charge current, most if not all, late model cars take the alternator regulator voltage-reference from a connection at the battery rather than a reference from within the alternator. This then has the result of maintaining the appropriate charging voltage at the battery terminals and the cable loss is of no consequence.
Certainly there will be a higher voltage available at the alternator terminal to use for auxiliary charging which may be useful to overcome losses in the cabling to the auxiliary battery. However, and this is a very fine point, in the circumstance of where the auxiliary battery is fully charged and there is a high load on the alternator from crank battery charge plus head &
driving lights etc. the alternator output voltage may be raised to a level that could cause overcharge to the auxiliary battery. But I repeat, this is a fine hypothetical proposition.
I would prefer to take the auxiliary connection from the cranking battery terminals and ensure that there was an adequately sized cable from the alternator.
By far I consider the best arrangement is to use a dc-dc charger at the auxiliary battery to overcome all cable losses, act as an isolator, and provide multi-stage charging. This is especially so where the auxiliary battery is located in a caravan with long cabling as in G.T.'s case. Then also, by nature of dc-dc chargers, it does not matter if the charger is connected to the alternator, cranking battery, or anywhere else provided that adequate current is available.
I have two auxiliary batteries, each with it's own 20A dc-dc charger and a relay which
places these batteries in parallel when the motor is off. It is the best setup I have ever used.
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