Engine Swap advice for an 80 Series
Submitted: Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 09:35
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Member - Jack
Hi folks, and Happy New Year:
I am looking to "retire" the sluggish (but reliable) non-turbo diesel engine from my 1991 80 Series Landcruiser GXL . I have sourced a 4.2 Litre Multi-Valve Turbo Diesel 1HD FTE from a 2001 Toyota Landcruiser 100 Series Wagon, and would appreciate some advice from those more "in the know" about such matters.
1. Is it a straight bolt in job?
2. Anyone able to recommend who might be good to do the installation for me in the Sydney/Central Coast/
Newcastle area, as I do not have a workshop, nor a lot of mechanical knowledge.
3. Would a job such as this require an engineering certificate?
4. The vehicle I am getting the engine from is an auto, whereas my vehicle is manual. Does this require much in the way of adapting it to the manual gearbox?
I am doing this in anticipation of acquiring either a camper trailer or caravan in 2006 and doing quite a lot of touring around Oz. I am therefore interested in improving my towing capabilities and towing performance. I am not interested in getting a later model Landcruiser, as my current one is generally in good nick and has handled everything I have dished up to it.
Greatly appreciate your help and advice.
Jack
Reply By: 120scruiser - Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 12:26
Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 12:26
The 1HD FTE will be an electronic engine where as your older 80 won't be so wiring of ECU's and harness's will
test you. You have to get the correct ECU for auto or manual as
well.
My suggestion is to look in 4x4 trader as some toyota dealers are selling brand new engines for around the 7 grand mark. If you decide to put a 1HDT in, which will bolt straight up and you don't need to source flywheels etc, this is my recommendation. You will have to get a fuel pump, turbo and some minor parts but would be worth the investment.
If you purchase one of these I suggest you do a main and big end bearing replacement prior to fitting for a bit of insurance so you know you won't get one with the bodgy bearings.
120scruiser
AnswerID:
146171
Reply By: Peter 2 - Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 13:23
Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 13:23
would also be much easier to source engine and trans along with wiring and black boxes all together. There are often big differences between engines conn to auto's and manuals especially regarding ancillaries.
Could end being much cheaper to buy complete donor vehicle to ensure all parts necessary are obtained. eg does donor vehicle have fly by wire or cable? etc etc.
Could also be much cheaper and easier to trade 80 in or get engine (as has been suggested) out of same vehicle series.
AnswerID:
146177
Follow Up By: kev 57 - Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 15:46
Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 15:46
Jack, have a gig at
http://www.lcool.org,you may find more info and the cruiser guru's are always happy to give advice/lend a hand
kev
92 1hdt
castlemaine
FollowupID:
399757
Reply By: Member - Jack - Monday, Jan 02, 2006 at 07:17
Monday, Jan 02, 2006 at 07:17
Thank you guys. Looks a bit more complicated ( = expensive) than I had first thought. Gotta love this
forum and all its helpful advice.
Jack
AnswerID:
146276
Reply By: desert - Monday, Jan 02, 2006 at 22:33
Monday, Jan 02, 2006 at 22:33
I would suggest the 1HD-T, which is a mechanical injection diesel, in fact it is nothing more than a direct-injected version of the 1HZ you are pulling out. This engine will bolt straight in, but I would recommend an up-rated Daikin clutch kit to handle to extra torque of this engine. Some minor exhaust work to match your system and a couple of different intake ducts to the air cleaner box and away you go. It would be judicious to have the bottom-end bearings inspected too. Every thing else is a direct match up.This engine will pull the queen Mary out of dry dock, is simple to work on and returns excellent fuel economy along with the huge torque it develops from just 1600 rpm. Some people will can it because of a poor history of main bearing failure, but this is usually traced to poor driver habits along will the engines ability to lug from very low rpm's.
AnswerID:
146367
Follow Up By: Member - Jack - Monday, Jan 02, 2006 at 23:11
Monday, Jan 02, 2006 at 23:11
Thanks desert: This looks like the solution I am after ... nice and uncomplicated. Time to start scanning the net now for an engine, or a quick trip to Toyota to see what they can offer. Much obliged for your input and advice.
Jack
FollowupID:
399897
Reply By: Member - DOZER- Monday, Jan 02, 2006 at 23:37
Monday, Jan 02, 2006 at 23:37
Hey
If you have sourced the hdfte, then you might be able to still use it....it has an electronic pump, so the options there is to use it with a wiring harness and computer out of a 100. There might also be diffeences in sumps as all hdfte were independant front ended...
Your flywheel will bolt to the hdfte or hdft or hdt, and the easiest motor to fit would be the hdft, as you dont need any glow system for it if you dont want to change things.
A few people have done the hdft to their 1hz 80's in lcool circles...and one i know of in a 105.
Same block, same starter, alt, engine mounts...no engineers on the 80 motor in the 80, as they came factory with one....
You may need to fit a pump to the diesel line, as the t/d hdt(ft) line is larger and they dont like restrictions...
Have fun....i would start looking at the damaged vehicles auctions if you want a complete conversion, but for the extra $$, a brand new long motor would be all you need.
Andrew
AnswerID:
146378