My Cracked Radiator Up-date.

Yep that’s an excellent idea, I have already got one on (I was Taught from a young age LOL), thou it’s looking a bit tired now and need’s to be re-done, They do a good job I still get some getting in throe a few small gaps but they are easily removed.

I find the problem now is when you are on tracks and the dry grass and small plants in the centre of the track hit on the bottom of the bull bar and the radiator guard and the seed’s then get sucked into the cooling fins.

After the 4WD trip north of Perth I had Grass seed’s and pollen all throe the A/C radiator and like only 6 bugs made it throe, did my best to blow it all out with the big blower vac when I had the Engine radiator out but once those seeds get in their they are a PITA to get out.

Thanks for the advice Ed.......very interesting and it makes me wonder why bloody Nissan specifically say NOt to put a screen in front of the diesel's radiator. Mongrels must be just trying to get us to clog our rad's up!!!!!!!!!!!
Having said that, I have sooooo much other chit in front of my truck, that I have never noticed any large amount of bugs etc in the air con condenser. I used to get some up in between the air con and the rad, and I haven't checked this aspect for quite some time, so perhaps i should do that, eh?? haha
As far as grass seeds from the middle of tracks is concerned.....well sounds like a good reason to fit another lift kit to get the bloody truck high enuff to avoid the seeds. lolol
Happy New Year blokes, and good luck with the new rad Exploder; hope it's as good as Natrad say it is.
Cheers
Roachie

I would but that Bloody IFS is a bit limiting in that aspect; I could go up another Inch at the very most but that won’t solve much.

The other option I have always had in the back of my mind is getting the 4-inch Explore IFS lift from Supalift USA with a big set of 4-inch rased leaf pack’s or doing a SOA up the back with a nice set of 32’s, bleep yeah!!!

No mate I am in Perth, The crack was on the Cold side (Cross flow radiator) of the radiator where the top-mounting bracket is moulded to the tank, it fractured right along the top and down the side of the Bracket. I think it was a mixture of Age and vibration from 4Wding (I do tend to take thing’s a bit on the fast side sometimes)

I will think about it, but I will only be holding onto the car for another 1 or 2 years so properly not worth the $$.

Andrew.. Give JohnR an email or call.

hes thinking of INtercoolers, but for some reason is thinking massive..

Excuse me exploder for dropping in on your thread but I have a question for awill4x4.

Brad from another forum recommended that I contact you regarding a radiator problem I have.
I have a Jackaroo 2000 3.0 TD Auto which struggles when things warm up. An experienced contact from the UK said that this was a known problem for the same model Trooper in the UK and was rectified by Isuzu by fitting a double core radiator to the vehicles delivered over there. Unfortunately they did not give Australia the same consideration.
I have contacted our localish natrad dealer in Warragul who can not source a replacement radiator. The only option they have for me is to recore to a 32mm brass core approx $440 with me removing and reinstalling.
Does brass give better heat transfer than Aluminium or will I end up with a similar result. Brad also mentioned that you can custom build radiators to suit, would this be a cost effective option and can you quote for this?

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Andrew does make custom intercoolers/radiators, but the cost would be at least double what the brass one is going by what his one cost after working out hours etc.

What core radiator is yours now? Single core? Double core will make a great difference, it did to my GQ and price was about the same as you were quoted..

Is there anyone else having similar issues with their auto Jack round this way, maybe ask them what they have done.

Why not import one from the UK??

Leroy

Craig, Andrew here. I'm sorry I haven't been able to get back to sooner.
An aluminium cored radiator will cool more efficiently than a copper/brass one. The copper is efficient in transferring heat but the solder used to hold everything together is terrible.
Your current radiator is 25mm thick but that will be one row of tube and that tube is the whole thickness of the radiator so that's 25mm. On your quoted one of 32mm thick copper/brass that will be 2 rows of tubes but to fit them into a core thickness of 32mm and allow tube to tube clearance then each tube is only going to be 12mm -13mm deep so there's no benefit there in coolant volume.
For a full custom fabricated aluminium radiator I can't even buy the cores for what your buying the complete standard radiator for. For example the custom core for my GQ cost me a little under $600 when I bought it and then there were mega hours of work to finish it off.
My best advice to you is to start with the cheapest things 1st. Replace thermostat, you never know you may have a "lazy" thermostat it can happen.
Next, put a good quality radiator flush (I like Tectalloy Muckowt) through the system and follow directions and flush out your entire cooling system and then get it reverse power flushed by a radiator centre. You'll be amazed just how much gunk is flushed by a high volume reverse flush.
If it were me I would then either remove the radiator myself of have it removed and have a radiator end tank taken off and have the core "rodded" out this will clean out any blockages which may be in your core and have a new tank O ring fitted and the tank replaced on your core. You can usually remove a tank twice before there are any problems with resealing the tank to the core.
That's the direction I would go 1st, it should be the cheaper option.
As an example, my day job is in the motor racing industry and the sprintcars we repair and manufacture are producing between 700- 750 bhp and they use a radiator core of 25mm thickness and don't have cooling problems. There is one caveat though and that is that they run on Methanol which is a "cool" fuel. The supercars use a core thickness of 40mm on their sprint rounds and 57mm at Bathurst.
Regards Andrew.

Craig, it sounds as if you've done everything right so far. I'm assuming that as you're asking about a tranny cooler that your Jackaroo is an automatic?
If so an auxilliary cooler can make quite a bit of difference and if you're towing they should be considered a "must have" in my opinion. On my GQ I have even gone to the extent of bypassing the radiator trans coolers entirely and now run 2 front mount transmission coolers, one of which is mounted between the air con condensor and the auxilliary air con thermo fan. I am going to hard wire the fan to a switch so I can turn it on manually when 4x4ing. My auto temps previously with suburban driving were 70-80 degrees they now sit at 50-60 for the same conditions. When the torque convertor locks up it sits about 45-50 normally and on one 40+ degree day it sat at 55-60 @ 110 kph so it's working really well.
The auto trans cooler I've fitted behind the fan is by PWR and measures 280mm X 255mm X19mm thick and has a list price of $179 but I got it for significantly less than that as they had one with 5/16" barbs (8mm) rather than the 3/8" barbs they normally supply and it was the size I wanted. It works well at removing transmission heat, which is good as heat is the single biggest killer of auto transmissions.
Regards Andrew.

Yep, that's where I got the big mutha that's under my bonnet too. It's huge.....2 x 25mm cores and the same width and height as the original plastic-tanked job.
Only thing is that I couldn't get the plastic shroud back onto it, and some blokes reckon this is why my truck still runs quite hot at times. I'm still not convinced as I have 2 electric fans in front of the radiator (one of which is the air-cond fan and the other is a 10" Davies Criag which I can switch on).....so between the 3 fans, there should be enough airflow through the radiator. Also, it only gets hot when I'm driving at speed, so there should be enough natural airflow. When we did the Simpson trip last year, the temp gauge never got above 80oC, even though I was in low range for the whole crossing, towing the camper trailer and slow speeds (= no airflow over radiator).