Frenchies Trip Report 2005 - part 2

Submitted: Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 02:26
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Day 17. Coral Bay to Mt Augustus.

Left Coral Bay at 08.00 a.m. and headed North West, left the bitumen after approx. 200k. Road conditions very good. Wonderful desert scenery. Encountered a desert lezard (approx. 1m) and a troopy stopped in the middle of the crossing with the road from Gascoyne Junction. First I think I don’t see well: german plates and left hand drive. After I asked the gentleman at the wheel (in german) whether everything was OK, he told me he was only looking for his way to Mt Augustus, and had shipped indeed his Troopy in a container from Germany. This would be cheaper for three months than renting in Oz (it reminded me a bit of other Germans I had met in the Sahara in 1968 who had brought everything including mineral water because they did not think they would find anything on the spot – I had also a similar experience as I lived in Germany and drove to Norway for a tough winter holiday with German friends who had told me to bring everything from home. Actually, the only item which was difficult to purchase in Norway was “schnaps” (liquor). Fortunately, I had taken enough of it with me).

Stopped for a sandwich and a refuel at Cobra Station. Friendly guy. As their generator had broken down, they had to fill from drums with a manual pump. Fuel was quite expensive (1,80 $). I guess the sweat for pumping 100 l. was included.

Arrived then at Mt Augustus, which is quite impressive (actually the biggest monolith in the word). Had a ride around it (50k) and a 2hrs walk (according to the German gentleman, who had already been there before, walking to the summit is not very interesting).

Watched the sunset over Mt Augustus from a nearby hill. It’s really worth to see.

Took a cabin at Mt Augustus Tourist Resort. Primitive and friendly. Of course, it has nothing to do with a resort. Thanks God. Shared the evening barbie (and two bottles of red) with a retired guy from Perth and his wife who had come with a 2WD and already destroyed two tyres. Very good evening. We still correspond with them and will pay a visit in Perth next July.

Day 18 – Mt Augustus to Meekathara.

Stood up around 06:00 a.m. despite the red. I had forgotten to tell it, Cathy, who is a lot younger than I am (13 years) - or maybe not so lazy - goes for jogging nearly each day. I had some good pics. of the sunrise during her jogging.

It was bloody cold on the way to Meeka. Even I put a jumper on. Stopped at the old Mt. Gould Police Station, saw some emus and helped a very british looking elderly gentleman from Melb. who had a flat to change a wheel of his cruiser.

It began to rain one hour before we arrived to Meeka, so we took a room in the local Motel, where we had a very good dinner, served from a young french female backpacker who was due to stay for one month and told us she had brought plenty of books, as Meeka does not look very entertaining.

Just before, I had asked locals about the road conditions either to Wiluna or to Sandstone. As nobody seemed to know really, we went then to the Police Station where a very kind young Officer told us not to drive these roads, which should be in very bad conditions. It is the reason why day 18 was quite boring – 800 k of bitumen. All the people we asked after told us (and I believe it) both of these roads are actually quite easy.

Day 19 – Meeka to Laverton.

As I said before, travelling was quite boring (Meeka – Mt Magnet – Sandstone – Leinster – LeonoraLaverton). And it began to be really cold. Stopped for a sandwich at Sandstone. Primarily, we wanted to overnight in Leonora, but the Motel looked quite bad, so we found it better to drive the 130 k to Laverton, which could actually only be better.

On the way, we overdrove a quite original bus with “Christ People”. I still wonder what they might be doing in this place.

Took a VERY GOOD cabin at Laverton Caravan Park.

Had very pleasant time waiting to be served from the nearby takaway caravan (approx. 1 hr. – very good food), chatting with a gold prospector who did not tell us where he was heading to, a wine producer from Margaret River, another guy coming from Coober Peddy on the Anne Beadell with seven spare wheels, and with the guy who drives the grader on this side of the GCR (not Popeye, the other driver).

Night temperature 3° Celsius….

Day 20 – Laverton to Warburton.

This is the day I have been waiting for: crossing the desert …

Primarily, I wanted to take the Gunbarrel, but Cathy did not agree. She is a bit scared from the remoteness… Maybe another time.

Saw a lot of wildlife – Kangaroos, camels, dingoes eating a camel carcass..

Saw even more car wrecks on either sides of the road.

Stopped at Tjukayirla Rdh. I had to find a screw to fix a loose protection plate and had to go and help myself in the shed. Bought a sticker which is now on the rear window on my Patrol in Paris…

Warburton Rdh is a curious place. Not very engaging, with the tyre repair tools (which are removed after 5 p.m. fixed with chains), the very impressive nearby police station..

Nevertheless, cabin was OK, and Cathy could have her morning jogging.

Day 21 – Warburton to Warrakurna Rdh.

Quite a short ride through the desert. More camels, Kangooros and car wrecks. I really liked the desert scenery.

We had the chance to visit Gilles weather station with guys from Adelaide we had met the previous day in Warburton, and who had pre-booked a visit.

Had a glance at the old Len Beadell grader.

Day 21 – Warrakurna Rdh to Uluru

This part of the GCR is in my opinion the most beautiful .. despite Docker River, which really looks as if the locals would have been throwing their waste away without care for years….probably they have definitely other points of view than we do…

The arrival on Kata Tjuta is very impressive. We stopped for a while to have a look and take pics..But 10k later, I thought I don’t see correctly (once again ..). Plenty of cars and coaches crossing MY road. I had not expected this kind of things. However, one has to accept that other people travel another way.

But I definitely think you cannot see the same thing the same way and I ask myself whether people coming with aeroplane to Ayers Rock deserve these sceneries, which were fantastic after 1.200 k of desert.

Had to struggle with Japanese tourists who obviously cannot read, as they don’t keep on the track …

Return to civilization is hard …

Some more k to Uluru and Ayers Rock Resort. We had booked the cheapest (or least expensive ..) hotel. Cathy did not like the pool, so she used this of the most luxurious resort without previous notice and without paying anything.

Very good evening dinner.

Day 22 – Uluru to Alice.

First we had the Uluru Aboriginal sunrise tour.

Sunrise was fantastic, but the walk with the aboriginal guide (who was supposed not to speak any English) reminded a bit of Disneyland. Especially designed for tourists coming with planes and coaches.

On the way to Alice, saw two people making their way on the Lasseter with roller blades …

Stopped for a sandwich in a roadhouse, had nearly to give our table to standard tourists coming out of a bus. I definitely do not like them that much.

Day 23 – Alice to Alice

First driving to the local correspondent of our car renter, because I thought the engine of the Troopy was a bit weak. A very tall and friendly guy had a trial ride in the hills, told me 115 kph were OK uphill. Nevertheless, changed the air filter cartridge, which had some holes in it. Would not let me pay anything, telling me our car renter would do it.

Paid visits to the School of the Air (very interesting especially for Cathy, who is an English teacher) and to the RFDS.

Had some rest..

Day 24 – Alice to Daly Waters.

I had planed to drive from Alice on the Tanami Road, then to Top Springs and Katherine in order to avoid most of the Stuart Highway.

But Cathy was really fed up with the corrugations, so we drove on the Stuart. Stopped at some roadhouses (the one with the Art exhibition and this with the OVNIS), at the old Telegraph Station and at Devil’s Marbles (fine, but lots of flies).

We had planed to stop at Tenant Creek, but as it was only 02.00 p.m. when we arrived, we decided to drive …. to Katherine. I had only misread the map, and found out Katherine was 300 k farther than I thought.

As I do not like driving at night in Oz, we stopped at random at Daly Waters Pub.

It is a fantastic place, where we had a very good evening with Aussies and an American diplomat’s daughter with her tall German boy friend. Very good Barbie, wine and country music. Only a bit difficult to sleep because of the noise ..

Day 25 – Daly Waters to Mary River Rdh (Kakadu).

Stopped at Elsey and visited the house (we from the never never ..) and enjoyed the thermal pool (Cathy not me). The smaller pool on the next road is even better – not so overcrowded.

Had a very nice sandwich and beer in a pub. Chatted with locals.

After that, we wanted to visit Katherine Gorge. Came unfortunately to late for the regular helicopter tour. Found another one on the way back, who was available for a ride.

As a gentleman, I gave Cathy the front seat near the young and friendly pilot. We had only not noticed that the helicopter had no front doors… The ride was fine, but Cathy was a bit angry, cause she thought I had given her the front seat on purpose..

Very good cabins and steacks at Mary River Rdh.

Chatted a lot with real outback tourists coming from the Kimberleys, amongst which a gentleman from the south who was travelling as a guest in a troopy as he had met a cow on the GRR with his Commodore, which is now 1,20 m shorter than standard.

Day 26 – Mary River Rdh to Yellow Waters.

Visit some gorgeous gorges (4WD only – at the end something for me) and had the evening cruise at Yellow Waters. Lots of crocs, birds, buffaloes.. quite impressive.

Had a standard cabin, found the staff at the restaurant quite unfriendly..

Day 27 – Yellow Waters to Jabiru.

Highlight of the day was Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls. Really worth to see.

Met an Italian gentleman an the edge of the river crossing to Twin Falls who did not know how to turn his Budget Toyota Standard Van in 4WD. After I had explained him how to handle the pins, I told him to lock the hubs. He obviously did not know what a hub may be.

Anyway, I told him to go in low second and to stick at 2.000 rpm, which he did, so we had some fun. I think 2.000 was a bit too much…

Day 28 – Jabiru to …. (I cannot remind the name, it is a place between Jabiru and Darwin).

First had a ride to Ubirr, where we had another pleasant cruise on east alligator river and had a look at the aboriginal paintings.

However, as it was becoming quite hot, decided after lunch to go to the hotel.

Had a very interesting bird watch from the nearby observatory.

Day 29 - ……… to Darwin.

We had decided to leave the highway and to drive on a track (4WD only) which links to the old Jim Jim road.

It was really a good idea. Very isolate country, lots of wildlife: birds, kangaroos, wild horses.

Then drove back to Darwin, had a very enjoyable Harbour sunset cruise and dinner at Cullen Bay.

Day 30 – Darwin to Singapore.

I woke up early in the morning. I had to clean the Troopy and give it back.

First I lost at least 1 hr. looking for a washing station. Then another hour removing the bloody red dust from inside and outside the car. Then another one finding the place in Berrimah where I had to drop the car.

These people are really OK. They did not charge anything despite the fact that we drove 1.700 k more than the contract allowed, telling me the best reward would be to have us as customers again… which will be the case next summer …

Darwin – Singapore – Paris – Home (7 a.m. the next day).
………………..

Day 100

Already booked the flights and the Troopy for next Summer:

Paris – DarwinPerth

6 days Perth and surrounds.

Flight PerthCairns.

5 days Cape Trib (Diving for Cathy, Bloomfield Track, CREB track and others for me – maybe have a look at inexpensive real estate around Cairns and Port).

Then 15 days driving to Darwin (probably Cape Trib – CooktownLauraChillagoe – Dunbar HS – Normanton – Gulf road – Roper Bar – Arnhem Land – Darwin).

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Reply By: Des Lexic - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 09:41

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 09:41
G'day Eric,
Thanks again for an interesting read. It is good to get someone else's opinions especially from an overseas visitor. It is a pity that you got bad information on the Meekathara to Willuna Road as we travelled it in August and it was fine. Mt Augusta is a very interesting and attractive scenic place.
The earlier you can do your next trip (from May onwards) the better. Less tourists, more water but watch out for crocs.
Might catch up with you on the track one day.
Look forward to Cathy's perception of the trip too.
Cheers
Des
AnswerID: 145860

Reply By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 15:50

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 15:50
Eric, I enjoyed the read very much and as Des said like to hear Cathy's perceptions too. Read it from beginning to end on paper as it takes me back a little to laughing about findiding a place to return your Toyota. I had a similar experience returning a hire car to CDG Paris - two separate occasions to different hire companies. This was after finally getting to the hotel we were staying at having driven the roads around it several times. I think Darwin has not a patch on Paris for getting one lost.

Trying to deliver a car to Hertz in Barcelona was a good lesson too on how to return to your hotel and ask directions to Hertz **YET** again. One way streets are ok as long as you drive far enough to come back past it. At least Parisians are aware there are some road rules.

Love to meet up with you along the road somewhere Eric. So pleased you do your homework as to what you can do and how to survive the harsher environment.
AnswerID: 145899

Reply By: GOB & denny vic member - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 19:08

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 19:08
goodday eric and cathy
you obviously had an intereting trip and it was a pity our timing was just a bit out and couldnt meet in darwin
maybe one day we will catch up on the track

hope you had a great birthday yesterday

steve
AnswerID: 145922

Reply By: V8Diesel - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 19:33

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 19:33
Sounds like a beaut trip, have fun on the next one!
AnswerID: 145927

Reply By: Member - Eric P (Int) - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 20:25

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 20:25
Hi, all,

Thanks for all your comments.
That's true, we had a lot of k (10400 in 4 weeks) and I must admit it was more my holiday than Cathy's.
However, she enjoyed it too, so that we agreed to come back to Oz next year (third year in a row).
We "discovered" Oz only three years ago and decided to spend our first holiday there after we watched a report about a Cape York trip on the TV.
The first times, one wants to experience a lot (the same for visitors from overseas who come to Europe from abroad. Generally, they want to visit France, Italia, Spain, Germany, etc.. within a couple of weeks), which means actually a lot of driving. But do we have any choice in this huge country ? (the same applies for example to the USA, India, Brazil). And I must say, both of us were very pleased about all what we saw and experienced.
As far as we are concerned, we intend as from now to concentrate a bit more on special spots (which will be the case next year. planed trip will be less than 5.000 k - maybe another time we expreience the center for two weeks or so another time).
Another point is that Cathy can indeed drive a 4WD - we had several trainings together in Europe - but she has a bit of a problem with right hand drive. We agreed upon the fact that she has definitely to share the wheel the next times.
Concerning Oz: we definitely like the people and the country, so that I am even considering settling there when I am retired (still 5 years to work!!) despite the very strict conditions (no access to Medicare, have to invest 1 M $ in Oz, which features more or less all what I possess including home).
We had long discussions about countries which we might visit either for one month or for a longer period.
Australia has a lot of advantages: It is rather safe and civilized with good access to medical facilities, unlike other countries like southern Africa, south and middle America or muslim coutries (you Australian know unfortunately something about it)....and we have still a lot to see..
Cheers
Eric

AnswerID: 145930

Follow Up By: Footloose - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 21:04

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 21:04
Eric, thanks for your trip reports. I enjoyed your experiences, and they brought back many happy memories of my trips around Oz. The Meeka
to Wiluna track is usually a doddle by the way.
Retiring to Oz would probably be a decision that you wouldn't regret, if you could afford it. Apart from there being a lot of K's between things to see, you'll find that it's impossible to have seen it all. You go, see it, come home and find out that there's something you missed.
You sound as if you are now experienced Oz travellers, well aware of the need for planning and safety requirements. Well done, especially from overseas.
Safe and happy travelling.
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Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 21:45

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 21:45
Eric & Cathy,

Great read, and makes me feel like hastening our, at least, my retirement.

Interesting comment about the "unfriendly staff in restaurant" at Cooinda Resort. Somesone very near and dear to me, works there, so will have to let her know, so they can improve their service.

Thanks again,

Hooroo...

Seen it all, Done it all.
Can't remember most of it.

Lifetime Member
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Reply By: Willem - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 21:17

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 21:17
Good one Eric....glad you enjoyed your whirlwind tour of the outback lol

Cheers
AnswerID: 145939

Reply By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 21:24

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 21:24
Thanks for that especially as I am intending on visitin Mt Augustus later this year. Many of the places i have visited so it brought back memories although i found the motel at Leonora (company paid for) to be quite good. I to ended up at Daly waters by accident. i had one beer and went to leave only to find my lights didnt work so I ended up having a very heavy night there and camping next door to the pub
AnswerID: 145940

Reply By: Bilbo - Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 23:37

Thursday, Dec 29, 2005 at 23:37
Eric,

It seems like you were bored in some of the best gold country in the world - Meeka, Laverton, Sandstone etc. When I came from the UK, 30 years ago, I used to find it boring, but 28 years ago I discovered prospecting for gold. It ain't boring now! Plus it helps a lot if you've had bush aborigines teaching you like I have.

The Australian Bush is extremely interesting once you know how to read what it's telling you.

The major dirt roads in Australia are easy as long as it hasn't rained within the last few days. Meeka to Wiluna is a picnic drive. Wiluna to Leonora is bitumen. Sandstone to Leonora/Laverton is quite long and can get real boggy when wet, but when dry it's 80kmh plus all the way.

See ya back here soon.

Bilbo
AnswerID: 145961

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 01:14

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 01:14
I agree. Alot of people think there is "nothing out here" and there isnt if you dont look for it. Just for example a short detour between Leonora and laverton would take you to Malcolm Dam with its prolific birdlife (when the "locals" arnt blowing them away) Or London Bridge near Sandstone. Even Jokers Tunnel near Yalgoo is a fascinating way to get up close and personall with the local bat populations.
I used to commute between Leinster and kalgoorlie and rarely went the same way 2wice with trips along the way to Goongarie NP, Niagra Dam and the Golden Quest discovery trail
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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 01:16

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 01:16
Oh and I think your showing your age a bit it is now bitumen between Leinster to Gerldton
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Follow Up By: Bilbo - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:16

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:16
"Leinster to Geraldton is bitument"???!!

Davoe, I haven't been on that road fer about 10 years. It's bitumen!! Where does it go from and to, which towns or districts are now bitmunised?

Bilbo
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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 20:38

Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 20:38
Bitumised around 99 I dunno how much was originally bituminised but bitumen Leinster-sanstone-magnet - yalgoo - Gerltdon
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Follow Up By: Bilbo - Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 22:25

Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 22:25
I'm amazed! I must get out more!

Thanks Davoe

Bilbo
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