Day 17.
Coral Bay to Mt Augustus.
Left
Coral Bay at 08.00 a.m. and headed North West, left the bitumen after approx. 200k. Road conditions very good. Wonderful desert scenery. Encountered a desert lezard (approx. 1m) and a troopy stopped in the middle of the crossing with the road from
Gascoyne Junction. First I think I don’t see
well: german plates and left hand drive. After I asked the gentleman at the wheel (in german) whether everything was OK, he told me he was only looking for his way to Mt Augustus, and had shipped indeed his Troopy in a container from Germany. This would be cheaper for three months than renting in Oz (it reminded me a bit of other Germans I had met in the Sahara in 1968 who had brought everything including mineral water because they did not think they would find anything on
the spot – I had also a similar experience as I lived in Germany and drove to Norway for a tough winter holiday with German friends who had told me to bring everything from
home. Actually, the only item which was difficult to purchase in Norway was “schnaps” (liquor). Fortunately, I had taken enough of it with me).
Stopped for a sandwich and a refuel at Cobra Station. Friendly guy. As their generator had broken down, they had to fill from drums with a manual pump. Fuel was quite expensive (1,80 $). I guess the sweat for pumping 100 l. was included.
Arrived then at Mt Augustus, which is quite impressive (actually the biggest monolith in the word). Had a ride around it (50k) and a 2hrs walk (according to the German gentleman, who had already been there before, walking to
the summit is not very interesting).
Watched the sunset over Mt Augustus from a nearby
hill. It’s really worth to see.
Took a cabin at Mt Augustus Tourist Resort. Primitive and friendly. Of course, it has nothing to do with a resort. Thanks God. Shared the evening barbie (and two bottles of red) with a retired guy from
Perth and his wife who had come with a 2WD and already destroyed two tyres. Very good evening. We still correspond with them and will pay a visit in
Perth next July.
Day 18 – Mt Augustus to Meekathara.
Stood up around 06:00 a.m. despite the red. I had forgotten to tell it, Cathy, who is a lot younger than I am (13 years) - or maybe not so lazy - goes for jogging nearly each day. I had some good pics. of the sunrise during her jogging.
It was bloody cold on the way to Meeka. Even I put a jumper on. Stopped at the old Mt. Gould Police Station, saw some emus and helped a very british looking elderly gentleman from Melb. who had a flat to change a wheel of his cruiser.
It began to rain one hour before we arrived to Meeka, so we took a room in the local Motel, where we had a very good dinner, served from a
young french female backpacker who was due to stay for one month and told us she had brought plenty of books, as Meeka does not look very entertaining.
Just before, I had asked locals about the road conditions either to
Wiluna or to
Sandstone. As nobody seemed to know really, we went then to the Police Station where a very kind
young Officer told us not to drive these roads, which should be in very bad conditions. It is the reason why day 18 was quite boring – 800 k of bitumen. All the people we asked after told us (and I believe it) both of these roads are actually quite easy.
Day 19 – Meeka to
Laverton.
As I said before, travelling was quite boring (Meeka – Mt Magnet –
Sandstone – Leinster –
Leonora –
Laverton). And it began to be really cold. Stopped for a sandwich at
Sandstone. Primarily, we wanted to overnight in
Leonora, but the Motel looked quite bad, so we found it better to drive the 130 k to
Laverton, which could actually only be better.
On the way, we overdrove a quite original bus with “Christ People”. I still wonder what they might be doing in this place.
Took a VERY GOOD cabin at
Laverton Caravan Park.
Had very pleasant time waiting to be served from the nearby takaway caravan (approx. 1 hr. – very good food), chatting with a gold prospector who did not tell us where he was heading to, a wine producer from Margaret River, another guy coming from Coober Peddy on the Anne Beadell with seven spare wheels, and with the guy who drives the
grader on this side of the GCR (not Popeye, the other driver).
Night temperature 3° Celsius….
Day 20 –
Laverton to
Warburton.
This is the day I have been waiting for: crossing the desert …
Primarily, I wanted to take the Gunbarrel, but Cathy did not agree. She is a bit scared from the remoteness… Maybe another time.
Saw a lot of wildlife – Kangaroos, camels, dingoes eating a camel carcass..
Saw even more car wrecks on either sides of the road.
Stopped at Tjukayirla Rdh. I had to find a screw to fix a loose protection plate and had to go and help myself in the shed. Bought a sticker which is now on the rear window on my Patrol in Paris…
Warburton Rdh is a curious place. Not very engaging, with the tyre repair tools (which are removed after 5 p.m. fixed with chains), the very impressive nearby police station..
Nevertheless, cabin was OK, and Cathy could have her morning jogging.
Day 21 –
Warburton to Warrakurna Rdh.
Quite a short ride through the desert. More camels, Kangooros and car wrecks. I really liked the desert scenery.
We had the chance to visit Gilles weather station with guys from
Adelaide we had met the previous day in
Warburton, and who had pre-booked a visit.
Had a glance at the old Len Beadell
grader.
Day 21 – Warrakurna Rdh to Uluru
This part of the GCR is in my opinion the most beautiful .. despite Docker River, which really looks as if the locals would have been throwing their waste away without care for years….probably they have definitely other points of view than we do…
The arrival on
Kata Tjuta is very impressive. We stopped for a while to have a look and take pics..But 10k later, I thought I don’t see correctly (once again ..). Plenty of cars and coaches crossing MY road. I had not expected this kind of things. However, one has to accept that other people travel another way.
But I definitely think you cannot see the same thing the same way and I ask myself whether people coming with aeroplane to Ayers
Rock deserve these sceneries, which were fantastic after 1.200 k of desert.
Had to struggle with Japanese tourists who obviously cannot read, as they don’t keep on the track …
Return to civilization is hard …
Some more k to Uluru and Ayers
Rock Resort. We had booked the cheapest (or least expensive ..) hotel. Cathy did not like
the pool, so she used this of the most luxurious resort without previous notice and without paying anything.
Very good evening dinner.
Day 22 – Uluru to Alice.
First we had the Uluru Aboriginal sunrise tour.
Sunrise was fantastic, but the walk with the aboriginal guide (who was supposed not to speak any English) reminded a bit of Disneyland. Especially designed for tourists coming with planes and coaches.
On the way to Alice, saw two people making their way on the Lasseter with roller blades …
Stopped for a sandwich in a roadhouse, had nearly to give our table to standard tourists coming out of a bus. I definitely do not like them that much.
Day 23 – Alice to Alice
First driving to the local correspondent of our car renter, because I thought the engine of the Troopy was a bit weak. A very tall and friendly guy had a trial ride in the hills, told me 115 kph were OK uphill. Nevertheless, changed the air filter cartridge, which had some holes in it. Would not let me pay anything, telling me our car renter would do it.
Paid visits to the School of the Air (very interesting especially for Cathy, who is an English teacher) and to the RFDS.
Had some rest..
Day 24 – Alice to
Daly Waters.
I had planed to drive from Alice on the Tanami Road, then to Top Springs and
Katherine in order to avoid most of the Stuart Highway.
But Cathy was really fed up with the corrugations, so we drove on the Stuart. Stopped at some roadhouses (the one with the Art exhibition and this with the OVNIS), at the old Telegraph Station and at Devil’s Marbles (fine, but lots of flies).
We had planed to stop at Tenant Creek, but as it was only 02.00 p.m. when we arrived, we decided to drive …. to
Katherine. I had only misread the map, and found out
Katherine was 300 k farther than I thought.
As I do not like driving at night in Oz, we stopped at random at
Daly Waters Pub.
It is a fantastic place, where we had a very good evening with Aussies and an American diplomat’s daughter with her tall German boy friend. Very good Barbie, wine and country music. Only a bit difficult to sleep because of the noise ..
Day 25 –
Daly Waters to
Mary River Rdh (
Kakadu).
Stopped at Elsey and visited the house (we from the never never ..) and enjoyed the
thermal pool (Cathy not me). The smaller
pool on the next road is even better – not so overcrowded.
Had a very nice sandwich and beer in a pub. Chatted with locals.
After that, we wanted to visit
Katherine Gorge. Came unfortunately to late for the regular helicopter tour. Found another one on the way back, who was available for a ride.
As a gentleman, I gave Cathy the front
seat near the
young and friendly pilot. We had only not noticed that the helicopter had no front doors… The ride was fine, but Cathy was a bit angry, cause she thought I had given her the front
seat on purpose..
Very good cabins and steacks at
Mary River Rdh.
Chatted a lot with real outback tourists coming from the Kimberleys, amongst which a gentleman from the south who was travelling as a guest in a troopy as he had met a cow on the GRR with his Commodore, which is now 1,20 m shorter than standard.
Day 26 –
Mary River Rdh to Yellow Waters.
Visit some gorgeous gorges (4WD only – at the end something for me) and had the evening cruise at Yellow Waters. Lots of crocs, birds, buffaloes.. quite impressive.
Had a standard cabin, found the staff at the restaurant quite unfriendly..
Day 27 – Yellow Waters to
Jabiru.
Highlight of the day was
Twin Falls and
Jim Jim Falls. Really worth to see.
Met an Italian gentleman an the edge of the
river crossing to
Twin Falls who did not know how to turn his Budget Toyota Standard Van in 4WD. After I had explained him how to handle the pins, I told him to lock the hubs. He obviously did not know what a hub may be.
Anyway, I told him to go in low second and to stick at 2.000 rpm, which he did, so we had some fun. I think 2.000 was a bit too much…
Day 28 –
Jabiru to …. (I cannot remind the name, it is a place between
Jabiru and
Darwin).
First had a ride to Ubirr, where we had another pleasant cruise on
east alligator river and had a look at the
aboriginal paintings.
However, as it was becoming quite hot, decided after lunch to go to the hotel.
Had a very interesting bird watch from the nearby observatory.
Day 29 - ……… to
Darwin.
We had decided to leave the highway and to drive on a track (4WD only) which links to the old Jim Jim road.
It was really a good idea. Very isolate country, lots of wildlife: birds, kangaroos, wild horses.
Then drove back to
Darwin, had a very enjoyable Harbour sunset cruise and dinner at Cullen Bay.
Day 30 –
Darwin to Singapore.
I woke up early in the morning. I had to clean the Troopy and give it back.
First I lost at least 1 hr. looking for a washing station. Then another hour removing the bloody red dust from inside and outside the car. Then another one finding the place in Berrimah where I had to drop the car.
These people are really OK. They did not charge anything despite the fact that we drove 1.700 k more than the contract allowed, telling me the best reward would be to have us as customers again… which will be the case next summer …
Darwin – Singapore – Paris –
Home (7 a.m. the next day).
………………..
Day 100
Already booked the flights and the Troopy for next Summer:
Paris –
Darwin –
Perth
6 days
Perth and surrounds.
Flight
Perth –
Cairns.
5 days Cape Trib (Diving for Cathy,
Bloomfield Track,
CREB track and others for me – maybe have a look at inexpensive real estate around
Cairns and Port).
Then 15 days driving to
Darwin (probably Cape Trib –
Cooktown –
Laura –
Chillagoe – Dunbar HS –
Normanton – Gulf road –
Roper Bar – Arnhem Land –
Darwin).