Overheating troopy, cured.
Submitted: Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 12:15
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134987
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9
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Bob a3
Hi All,Just a follow up, on a fairly long term problem for me. 1994 troopy,had it since 1999, for a few years, on and off, on bush trips, long hills, and steep climbs, heater guage would climb, to the red on occasions.Always went down after the climb. Did all the usual things , mechanics and new radiator stuff. Last year ,radiator clean out, new thermostat.,new cap, didn't solve the problem , seemed to be that all troopy's overheat, from what I had heard.Anyway this time after seeing the comment on clutch fans, even though the radiator place said the fan was doing what it should, also said my water pump was alright, which my mechanic said he wouldn't know that from what he had done. Anyway got new clutch fan and new water pump, and Bingo, went to
Meekatharra, from
Perth,a few weeks ago, and many long hills and steep climbs, and towing an Avan , my guage stayed right in the middle, and never used any water, which I checked after the trip, It was great to drive without watching the guage on every
hill.Hope this helps anyone who has had the same problem. Bob
Reply By: Member - Ross N (NSW) - Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 12:38
Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 12:38
Hi Boba3
Perhaps you might think about putting these details on the LCool site.
Many people there would find your experience useful as
wellRoss
AnswerID:
611564
Reply By: greybeard - Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 13:46
Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 13:46
Long story, but 1st thing to
check on an overheating 2h tojo is the clutch fan. They have a reputation for problems with the clutch fan. Pretty sure there is (or was) a complete how to including pics on the lcool site on how to replace the fluid in the fan to fix it.
AnswerID:
611566
Follow Up By: Bob a3 - Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 15:20
Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 15:20
Thanks greybeard, having the troopy so long and always looking after it, I am not a great mechanically minded person, so rely on mechanics or even radiator fellow,If a mechanic had said to me clutch fan and water pump, I would have done it.Most people on forums have said that troopy's are underpowered and do tend to overheat. Like I said radiator place ,when I said clutch fan, actually said it was doing what it should do, obviously wasn't the case, as the mechanic who changed it said it was stuffed. Just put this on as maybe people out there with the problem. When I am around town always no problem, hills were, and with heading bush, wanted to make sure I had covered all bases, which now seems to be the case. Thanks Bob
FollowupID:
881610
Reply By: HKB Electronics - Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 16:22
Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 16:22
From past experience it is now the first thing I would
check, a good indication the clutch is gone is to listen for the fan roar when starting a cold engine, it gradually disappears as the clutch looses the silicon oil and you don't notice it, once the fan is replaced you suddenly notice that it hasn't sounded like that for a long time:)
Generally the fan will roar when you start a cold engine and disappear after a short time, no roar on cold start it's probably on the way out.
AnswerID:
611568
Follow Up By: Bob a3 - Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 16:45
Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 16:45
Thanks HKB, first had the problem heading up a bad
hill great eastern highway, heading to Kalgoorlie about 6 yrs ago, rest of trip no problem.Like I said, told numerous mechanical people, and bought new radiator etc, no one said clutch fan AArrgghh.Last summer 2016 wasn't good, that's when had radiator etc checked. Don't really get a roar on troopy when I start, but fan is going round, will have to
check on a cold morning, on saying that, my hearing isn't the best Ha. Thanks Bob
FollowupID:
881613
Reply By: MUZBRY- Life member(Vic) - Thursday, Jun 01, 2017 at 11:02
Thursday, Jun 01, 2017 at 11:02
Gday
I had fan problems so the coupling was replaced . The fan never stopped roaring . What a pain, i rang the manufacturer antold the eng what was happening ,he said all was ok, but i wasnt happy with his reply and removed 9ml from the coupling , guess what , it all works like it should. I must say the eng did say he would give me another if i wasnt happy , and i wasnt so did the mods myself, three times i took the fan off and stripped to get it working the way it should. It all got back to the machine in the factory putting to much product in the coupling.
AnswerID:
611587
Reply By: member - mazcan - Thursday, Jun 01, 2017 at 11:40
Thursday, Jun 01, 2017 at 11:40
hi bob a3
I recently had a similar experience with my old mazda bravo diesel aug1996 model it has slowly been getting a higher running temp over the years
I lent it to my daughter just before last xmas but before doing so cleaned out radiator cores and fins and put in new glycol coolant the water pump was replace late 2015 so drive belts were good everything done including thermostat
but
while my daughter had it up in
Perth and the weather was in the 35-40deg region
it kept getting hot and had to turn the airconditoner off
after she had finished with it and done nearly 3000ks thanks dad !
i went up and drove it
home it boiled when I stopped for lunch on
forrest hwy i have a watchdog on it so
got
home ok
started checking out thermo fan issues the other thing was when it started cold it was making horrible clacking noises that actually sounded similar to a loose tappet but was coming from the thermo fan and as it warmed up would slowly discontinue
I compared the thermo fan resistance while hand turning it to a new ford
ranger that my neighbour had just bought and found mind had very little resistance and I was able to spin
mine very freely
where as his was quiet stiff to turn
I ordered a new thermo fan and installed it
what a remarkable difference now standing near the m/gard with bonnet up after cold starts the wind off the fan is blowing in my face quiet strongly and there is a whirring sound as
well
the engine now runs 10 degrees cooler under all conditions
no more clacking sounds
I busted the old thermo fan open and found there was stuff all silicon oil left in it
hence the reason it wasn't turning anywhere near fast enough when the engine needed to be cooled at speed
in hindsight which is always a wonderful thing
it should have been replaced about 3 yrs ago $143 from veales
lesson learned
cheers
AnswerID:
611588
Follow Up By: Bob a3 - Thursday, Jun 01, 2017 at 15:24
Thursday, Jun 01, 2017 at 15:24
Hi Mazcan, similar to me hey, I can't believe I went all those last years, could have been fixed without ever getting to the boiling over times. Even when in the summer ,I stopped the engine, and it started spitting out the water and bubbling. New radiator etc, but no mention of clutch fan, I was a baker so mechanics not my thing. Cost me 650 last year, cleaning out radiator, replacing hoses thermostat etc, all it needed was clutch fan, I did the water pump as was over 10 years old. Thing is the clutch fan has been on it for 23 years, so did a good job,but all the
services and stuff, knowing its year of production, could and should have been changed. I feel the wind blowing off the fan as
well now when I start up and stand near the mudguard.It was a briliant drive to Meeka and back never missed a beat, luvit. thanks for your story. bob
FollowupID:
881648
Reply By: GerryG - Saturday, Jun 03, 2017 at 13:14
Saturday, Jun 03, 2017 at 13:14
I have lived in Central Australia for over 40 years and have come across this overheating problem many times. A quick
check to see if it's the fan, is to run the engine until it's hot, then turn it off. If the fan continues to rotate any more than one revolution after the engine has stopped, then the problem is more than likely the fan.
Most of these fans can be pulled apart, and Toyota have little tubes of silicon for about $12 or so that you can squeeze into the unit. It's surprising how little the fan needs to work. Every 4WD I own carries a tube of the silicon. (mostly to give to others with over heating probs.)
AnswerID:
611640
Follow Up By: Bob a3 - Saturday, Jun 03, 2017 at 13:49
Saturday, Jun 03, 2017 at 13:49
Thanks Gerry, I will definitely get tube of the silicone, and will take notice of what you have said.Radiator place never mentioned it and actually said doing what it should be doing when I asked12 months ago about the clutch fan, that was when it first became a problem on local inclines, and not towing.Will
check where on the unit silicone goes.Been a great vehicle, it is the Hi Top camper Hzj75, and did the trip across to Olgas and Mourini? loop across to
Palm Valley etc plus regular trips to WA goldfields.Anyway thanks again for your advice, and happy 4wd to you. Bob
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: member - mazcan - Monday, Jun 05, 2017 at 12:03
Monday, Jun 05, 2017 at 12:03
hi Gerry
the mazda thermo fan is a sealed unit and in addition if the seal has let the original silicon escape then putting more in if possible is only a tempory fix to get out of trouble imho
not knocking your imfo
cheers
FollowupID:
881737
Reply By: GerryG - Saturday, Jun 03, 2017 at 18:12
Saturday, Jun 03, 2017 at 18:12
http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/tuning-and-understanding-your-toyota-viscous-fan-clutch
If you go onto this site, which I've just discovered, it goes into detail (probably too much detail!) on how to go about refilling your viscous fan clutch. The report is based on Toyotos but most new vehicles have a similar system and I've only come across a couple of other makes of fans that cant be pulled apart to refill.
As the report suggests, it's hard to get the amount of silicon right (even for new Toyotos) so I just add the contents of the new tube into what ever is originally there and wack it back together. It's always worked for me and it's a lot cheaper than buying a new clutch assembly.
AnswerID:
611646
Follow Up By: Bob a3 - Saturday, Jun 03, 2017 at 20:25
Saturday, Jun 03, 2017 at 20:25
Thanks Gerry, will have a look Bob
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: tim_c - Friday, Jun 30, 2017 at 10:43
Friday, Jun 30, 2017 at 10:43
That's the concern I have which has prevented me so far from rushing out to buy a tube of silicon oil and dumping the lot in - Toyota doesn't fill it to the top for a reason, and putting too much in will have issues too (causing the fan to run too much, too often, for too long, or perhaps even all the time).
These fans move a fair bit of air, and will therefore use a bit of power to turn, and also lead to higher fuel consumption (with my previous car, you could feel the car was noticeably slower accelerating once that fan kicked in, and revving it a bit higher didn't help much because it also turned the fan faster!).
What you want is to have the fan running when it needs to, not when it doesn't - and that requires the correct amount of oil - not too much, not too little, no one really seems to know, or be able to tell me just how much I should be adding.
FollowupID:
882444
Reply By: tim_c - Friday, Jun 30, 2017 at 10:50
Friday, Jun 30, 2017 at 10:50
It's great that you've got your problem sorted - even if it did take too long.
Although my Prado is not overheating, I'm not sure that the 17y.o. viscous-coupled fan is working quite as it should. But I'm a bit curious about suggestions to replace the fan (or top it up with oil) because if the vehicle is moving a reasonable speed (ie. over 40km/h - not stuck in traffic!), I would expect the air coming through the front grille would be more than what a fan could draw through, and certainly enough to keep the cooling system doing its job. Obviously your findings suggest otherwise!
AnswerID:
612241
Follow Up By: Bob a3 - Friday, Jun 30, 2017 at 12:57
Friday, Jun 30, 2017 at 12:57
Hi Tim, yes it was too long before I sorted it and in the end my reasoning was 23 year old vehicle, which I am attached to Ha, I didn't want to get rid of it, I knew the fan was there from new,I had a new radiator 5 years ago and then last year, all the cleanout etc, so to change the fan was the thing to do. Mechanic who did it said it was stuffed. If I was you and you do any decent trips, I would change it anyway, before it does cause problems.I will have to
check all my receipts to
check my alternator also,not sure if over the years I have had anything done on that. My friend has the same vehicle as me , and his alternator went on him on the way to the goldfields, luckily not far from a town and it was still daylight. he had it replaced for about $ 450. Different if you are only local etc,easy to sort at the time, but if you have long trips coming up, best to be safe than sorry. I was alright with
mine local,I suppose with normal airflow, but summertime came and my first
test up a
hill to my daughters house sent it into the red, which was when I did the cleanout and thermostat change last year. As one of the other replies said, stood next to the passenger side when looking at the engine, the air flow seemed great with the new fan, not sure what it felt like before, hadn't noticed it. Anyway thanks for your interest Tim , and just something to keep in mind, that was why I put my info on. Thanks Bob
FollowupID:
882447
Reply By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Friday, Jun 30, 2017 at 22:57
Friday, Jun 30, 2017 at 22:57
.
My 2002 Troopy was running a bit hot when working hard at low speeds such as sand dunes.
Rather than muck about trying to add silicon oil I decided to fit a new hub and did so today.
With the old hub on
the bench I applied the hot air gun to the bimetal and found that it did not move the centre shaft at all. Totally frozen.
So it seems like a good decision to replace the hub at $62.
AnswerID:
612262
Follow Up By: Bob a3 - Saturday, Jul 01, 2017 at 02:35
Saturday, Jul 01, 2017 at 02:35
hi Allan, good one, and fixed cheaply. You sound like you know your way round an engine, which helps. Thanks Bob
FollowupID:
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