.
Back to previous chapter - Northam to AlbanyFrom Walpole our plan was to head towards the Stirling Ranges NP, but first we explored the Flinders Peninsular south of
Albany. This is a wonderfully scenic area and we spent a rewarding day visiting many of the special
places there. But first we had a couple of lengthy photo stops for the first red banksias
Rugged Albany coast
Red Banksia
we had seen, and a riot of wildflower colour on the way out to the natural arch.There was still a heavy ocean swell making spectacular waves that broke around the rocky
granite headlands. King George Sound and Princess Royal Harbour were millponds by comparison when we finally set up
camp at the aptly named Panorama Caravan Park. There we were entertained by pelicans and the lights of
Albany reflected in the water.
Our next destination was the much-anticipated Stirling Ranges National Park.
Southern approach - Stirling Range NP
Once again the weather was deteriorating but this did not prevent several photo stops on the way. Unfortunately, low cloud prevented a good view of the mountains as they loomed up. But there were lots more “new” flowers and we were excited to see the bluish mallee called Tallerack, reminding us of
home. Another
camp kitchen eased us through the wind and showers.
Bluff Knoll
Next morning the showers eased and the cloud lifted from towering
Bluff Knoll us we drove up the steep road to the Eastern
Lookout. What a magnificent sight, enhanced by the misty clouds and brooding light. We did a short walk, having no aspirations to reach
the summit. Then it was time to explore some more of the park which is resplendent in flowers of many hues – yellow flowering gums and wattles, red banksias, purple drumsticks, and
orange peas.
Back at the
campground that night we met Jim the volunteer
ranger and discovered that he and
John share a convict ancestor – what a small world it can be.
Queen of Sheba Orchid
Before leaving the park we saw a number of the orchids that grow there, often in unlikely
places like right on the edge of the road. Since we first found ground orchids at
Kalbarri we have become entranced by these complex, delicate little gems. Being small and at ground level they are tricky to photograph; of course we must have photos of each one that we see. To the Cowslips, Spiders, Donkeys, Ants and Greenhoods that we have already seen, we can now add King
Spider, Jug and the extravagantly brilliant Queen of Sheba orchids.
Nature's garden - Stirling Ranges NP
The western part of the park was perhaps even more rewarding than the eastern half. There were flowers in profusion and the
views from the
western lookout were magnificent. So it was with some reluctance that we left this beautiful place and headed north for
Wave Rock.
Wave Rock
To get there we drove through yet more wind and rain, through rolling green cropping and grazing country that looks very wet in
places. The rain eased as we went north but when we did explore
Wave Rock it was still very windy. Despite that,
the rock (
Hyden Rock as it really is) impressed us with its scale and history, despite its postcard familiarity. The Wave is big and the ingenious water harvesting system using constructed contour walls over 30ha of
the rock surface intrigued us.
Near
Hyden we managed to meet up with Liz and Mike whom we’d met on our travels last year. We spent a delightful day exchanging travel tales and Liz and Val made the most of the local flowers, including several orchids. It was a delight to enjoy good company around a campfire and share some
camp cooking.
Then south again via some of the big nature
reserves in the area.
Ongerup Wildflower Show - A great effort by a small community
We went into
Ongerup and visited their informative wildflower show, a marvellous effort for a small community. It’s day 100 of this trip, and the weather is the worst yet; wet, very windy and cold, so to celebrate we checked into a cabin with a heater and electric blanket! Later we heard that this same front had caused havoc in the east kicking up dust storms, fires, hail, floods and heavy rain. Maybe it wasn’t so bad here after all!
Continuing south towards
Bremer Bay we were continually delighted by
wildflowers along the road. Several photo stops revealed more plants that we hadn’t previously seen, and even more orchids. At one such memorable stop we found three more new orchids close together including the spectacular Purple Enamel orchid.
After having a look around
Bremer Bay, which seems to be developing its own version of urban sprawl, we headed out into the
Fitzgerald River National Park.
Royal Hakeas
Soon we were among expanses of the amazing Royal Hakeas resplendent in their stiff red and yellow mottled leaves. The red Banksias were putting on a show too, as were the numerous mauve flowered shrubs that made a solid carpet of colour in
places.
Brilliant white sand, and whales
We knew that whales could be seen at
Point Ann, but it was still breathtaking to see whales and their calves basking in the brilliant turquoise water just a few hundred metres off
the beach. One whale really put on a show, breaching 7 or 8 times in quick succession. The sand here is a brilliant white and very fine, so a long walk on
the beach on a rare warm sunny afternoon was a real treat. There are
well-sheltered campsites here so we shall make this our base for a few days before we set out on the long trek
home.
Albany to Fitzgerald River NP
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