Battery isolator problems

Do not wish to steal the post.

But Derek the resistance values should be ohms not watt. A 0.25 watt resistor should be enough for the 100mA used for the LED.

Redeye

Sorry that is a cut and paste from redarc.com.au

Redarc must be following this thread, they have just changed their website.

Here is the update.

Derek,
Thanks for your kind offer. I am not a member and therefore cannot send a message with my mobile details. I will get on to your web site and contact you from there in three days when I get to Perth and have a base from where I can work properly rather than from a caravan park.

thanks
WBS

Phil,
I'm not using the override option. I realise after all the feedback that 60A may be inadequate although its been that way since 2006 with no problems until now. I suspect running two fridges off the battery may be too much current draw and will have to look into 100A circuit breakers rather than fuses. I'll sort it all out in the next few days. I'll talk to Derek from ABR where I know I can get all the bits I need to rebuild my system.

Thanks for your post.

WBS

I think you're right that 60amps is not enough. I measure current with a clampmeter and find anything up to 50 amps is going into my 100Ah AGM.
Between Derek and Redarc, I'm sure you'll have the problem licked!

Redarc specify using a 60 Amp fuse for cables up to 6 Mtrs long

60 Amp fuse information

Maîneÿ . . .

Hi
As Mainey has said the relay is reacting to high then low voltages ,that coupled with fuse blowing indicates either a wiring short after the relay or a
aux battery with a shorted cell/s.

Peter

Peter,
It happens when the engine is running,

WBS

Hi WBS
That would be correct the relay should be operating through the ignition switch
or voltage sensitive to voltages that will only be obtained with alternator running.
Disconnect the aux battery ,if that stops it cutting in & out the aux is the problem.
If it still cuts in & out with aux disconnected then A wiring short to frame iis likely to be the problem
But to confirm it is not the relay with an internal short then disconnect the lead to the aux @ the relay
Peter

WBS,
also consider removing the Redarc from the system if all the battery cables (+) and (-) are firmly connected.

Remove the two battery cables from the bolts on top of the Redarc and bolt cable lugs firmly together, be VERY careful that they are then tied away from any and all metals, then run the engine for a while and see if the fuse blows again, this will eliminate the Redarc as part of the cause.

BEFORE doing this, first measure the standing voltages of both batteries separately, then again when the battery lugs are bolted together.
Putting the batteries in parallel the voltages will equalize, the Cranking and Aux battery should be about the same voltage when measured individually, when paralleled will equalize between the voltage of the two batteries.

(eg, 12.60v and 12.70v when paralleled will be ~12.65v when using same capacity batteries, this will show you you have a faulty cell in either battery)

Maîneÿ . . .

WBS,

If you don't fix the problem before you leave I was thinking you will have no fridge?

Maîneÿ . . .

Maîneÿ
Good point and one I've thought about.
I've taken the fuses out and isolated the auxiliary battery, disconnecting everything that was drawing from it so its not being used or charged. I can be without a fridge or two for a couple of days until I get to Perth. From Kalbarri to Perth its pretty much back in civilisation so I won't really need the fridges as much. What I do is run them overnight on 240 volts and don't open them all day until they are back on 240 volts in the evening.

I'll seriously address the problem in Perth where I'll be for several days.

Thanks
WBS